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First Hemrajani suit--Comments?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jester, Dec 2, 2004.

  1. jester

    jester Senior member

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    Well, my first suit from Hemrajani arrived. This was made after a measuring session only; I'm having a follow-up fitting next week. I've worn it a few times, and have various comments, but right now I'll hold off making them until I hear from you guys.... [​IMG]
     


  2. jester

    jester Senior member

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    Oops, sorry, more pics, thumbnails now: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Not bad. Not bad at all. Nice shoulder, nice gorge, narrow lapel width, but it works on that cut. Good distance between the front buttons. Decent pattern matching.

    Initial thoughts: you would do better with a higher button stance. The lapel should roll a little lower, closer to the waist button. The balance of the sleeves looks off. They need a little more "pitch" forward, so that they lie smoothly along the front of your arms. Ticket pocket should be moved "inward" a fraction of an inch. Coat front could be more open below the waist button.
     


  4. armscye

    armscye Senior member

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    I agree about the shoulder-- the rule I learned long ago was that when standing at attention, horizontal lines on the upper back mean too little shoulder width, deep vertical lines mean too much, and the perfect shoulder width reveals only a couple of shallow ripples between the shoulder blades.
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Oops, didn't see the back photo. The problem is not the shoulder but that the back balance is off. You need a little more "room" to accomodate the blades.
     


  6. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Looks great to me. I would echo the comments on the upper-back...needs a little bit more room. The sleeve-pitch looks fine to me, those things are tough to photograph. I really like the shoulders and the chest.

    Did you ask for no flap on the left pocket?
     


  7. jester

    jester Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments. On the whole, I'm extremely pleased with the fit. When I put it on, it slides on with what would be a satisfying "thunk.". The shoulders are great, the length is great, sleeves are just right. The back is the only serious fit problem (the collar's either a little too low too, or it's part of the back issue), and it's fixable. The details are also very nice. I particularly like an aspect of the button fly. There's no hook, it's all buttons, but the main button on the waist attaches not directly to the, er, flap, but rather to a buttonhole that's attached to the underside of the flap. It's sort of hard to describe, but the effect is that there's no visible button in the center, and it lays very nicely and is easy to button. There are some minor issues--the suspender buttons are too wide; instead of being centered above the pleats, they're more to the side of the trousers, thus not helping the line of the trousers and being inconvenient. The lapel buttonhole is a milimeter or so too small. And so forth. But my biggest problem is with the lapels. They're considerably more narrow than I'd prefer; I like them roughly half the side of the chest, and clipping the breast pocket. Manton, you think it works well here? I felt that it made the suit look too "stylish" and modern. It's not unwearable, and I might even like it in, say, a very lightweight, high-twist black fabric, but here I was looking for a more classic cut. Renault78law--No, there's a left pocket flap. I just forgot to untuck it after storing newspaper there whilst walking the dog this morning [​IMG] Anyway, I'll be meeting Joe again next week for some adjustments. I'm still waiting for a suit from Chan but I'm pleased with this experience and would do it again.
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The thing is, those lapels have a short roll. Making them much wider would look bad and exaggerated. They could stand to be a little wider if they were rolled to the center button.

    Overall, however, it looks like a slim cut suit, and the lapels seem to balance nicely with that. As to the pocket, it actually could come a little more "inside". That might help it get clipped by the lapel. That's a look I like too, by the way.
     


  9. Ranjeev

    Ranjeev Senior member

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    I am by no means an expert but I think you look great. I like the lapels but I would agree that the breast pocket might look better if it was moved in closer to the lapels. Are the sleeves the right length? I think I like my sleeves on the long side so I always think that people wearing the proper length are off. If I may, what's the damage on a suit like this? I'm in the market for a couple of suits and was considering going upmarket for a couple of suits.
     


  10. jester

    jester Senior member

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    Each to his own, I suppose, but I think the sleeves are absolutely perfect. I like showing a little cuff, and I find it very hard not to get sleeves that are too long. No one ever listens. These are just right.

    This was $985, for Loro Piana super-120s. There's also a fancy lining, the photo of which didn't come through. Good deal, as far as I'm concerned.
     


  11. Ranjeev

    Ranjeev Senior member

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    Jester, I really do wear my sleeves too long. I think I'll have to see a tailor to get the problem fixed. I think most of my pants are too long as well. I've always been afraid of wearing clothes that are too small so I think I send up with suits that are little too long in the sleeves and trousers. Nothing that can't be fixed. Good price and I really do like that suit.
     


  12. joseanes

    joseanes Senior member

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    Follow up questions:

    You where expecting a suit from WWChan. Did you got it?
    How does it compares to the MyTailor suit?

    MyTailor will be in my area at the end of the month, and I am considering paying them a visit. However, most of the people in the forum tend to prefer WWChan (will be on my area on June/July). Just trying to find out if it is worth the wait.

    BTW, I am looking for basic color suits (grey and navy) so fabric variety is not a huge issue. Quality would be.
     


  13. PeterMetro

    PeterMetro Senior member

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    Is it just me (or the lighting) or is that suit electric blue?
     


  14. policy

    policy Active Member

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    It appears to be electric blue with a neon blue plaid over the top. I'm guessing that it MUST be the lighting because I don't think anyone would pay $985 for an electric blue suit.

    I personally would prefer to see the stomach section not be so tight across, but I am getting over my fear of waist supression. I think the button stance looks great on you, it's just high enough. That is in fact a very high gorge 2 button and I think it looks great.

    The trousers look short, do they feel long enough? I was taught that the break of the trousers should begin mid-shin, but yours appear to have no break, that could be a facet of the angle though.

    What people fail to recognize in this forum though is that if you are happy that is ALL that matters.
     


  15. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    looks like a windowpane to me
     


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