First foray in MTM/Bespoke: advice needed

[MrSquid]

Hello chaps,

After a long time lurking, here comes my first post.
Due to a moth accident, I find myself with only 3 okay-ish OTR suits. I need to wear a suit every day, so to be comfortable, I would need at least 2 more. I thought that might be the occasion to upgrade to bespoke suits.

My budget would be about £2000 to £2500 in total. I know that precludes me from even considering Savile Row, but I trust there are many good offerings off the row in London, so I started looking there.

After perusing the internet, my heart has settled, style-wise, on this guy: Chris Kerr
Unfortunately, their prices seem to have gone up and bespoke suits now come at about £1800. No way that I can buy two of those.
However they are starting a MTM service that should be around the £1000 mark.

I have also heard good things about
Sims & MacDonald
Connock & Lockie
Graham Browne

And have found generally positive (albeit sometimes sceptical) feedback on Cad & The Dandy
All of those guys seem to be around the £1000 - £1300 mark for a bespoke suit.

I should also add that 1) I am average-shaped (OTR suits generally look acceptable on me even without alterations,) and 2) I like suits somewhere between the Italian and the English style, classical elegance with a modern twist.

Given all that, what should I do?

1. Order 2 suits from one of the other bespoke guys, or from CATD? If so, which one would you recommend? Pictures of their suits would be really helpful as there are not many of those to be found.
2. Given that I really like Chris Kerr's house style, should I just go for MTM from them? Would there be a sizeable quality loss compared to bespoke?
3. If I am going for MTM, should I go back to considering the Row? I like Richard Andersons's style, for instance, and his MTM seems to be in my price range. Would there be a true quality difference or is it just a "luxury stamp" thing? I think purely based on house style I still prefer Chris Kerr.
4. Lastly, should I just send all caution to hell, go and have one bespoke suit made by Chris Kerr while starting saving for the second one?

Thank you in advance for all the help you can give me - my first foray out of the OTR world is quite a big deal to me and I hope I will get it right.

 

[Sander]

Maybe have a look at traveling Italian tailors. Northern Italy, Milan style sounds like it might suit your taste. I think Simon had something about traveling tailors on permanent style.

 

[MrSquid]

Thank you for your reply Sander.
I did think of using a traveling tailor from Italy or Hong-Kong, but it seems a pity somehow to forego the local offering when it's so diverse and handy. I might go for that option if the information I get on London bespoke is disappointing, but so far, I would rather stick with someone close to home.

 

[Sander]

I definitely understand, but at your price point, this will become difficult.

 

[MrSquid]

I see - that is something to consider, of course.

So you would say that none of the tailors I am mentioning as being in my price range would be able to supply garments in the style that I like?

Also, since I am a total newbie in the tailoring world, I have to say I am not very clear on the quality difference between MTM and bespoke. If it is not that big, I think I would consider using Chris Kerr's MTM - but if it is very big then I might be better off someplace else.

At the end of the day, my budget would work for a single bespoke suit from Chris Kerr. So if push comes to shove and it appears that all the other options are a significant step down in either quality, style or convenience, then I might just bite the bullet, order the one suit and build my collection more slowly as opposed to ordering 2 suits right now.

 

[GBR]

You would be better advised to find a full bespoke tailor such as Chris Kerr or CaTD. There have bee good reports of the latter but Kerr seems under rated.

Avoid MTM which is merely adjusting an existing block and is not going to achieve what you want.

 

[ad101145]

Hi MrSquid,

we would be happy to discuss your bespoke wardrobe with you www.adamrobertsbespoke.com

We offer both semi bespoke and full bespoke there is a difference in the price. With semi bespoke starting at £795, and full bespoke starting at £1600.

We offer a full visiting service or you can come in to us at the showroom in Moorgate. All of our garments are made in Leeds. We stock cloths from all over the world from Loro Piana & Caccioppoli in Italy, to dugdale & scabal.

I would be happy to discuss further.

Kind regards

Adam

 

[MrSquid]

You would be better advised to find a full bespoke tailor such as Chris Kerr or CaTD. There have bee good reports of the latter but Kerr seems under rated.

Avoid MTM which is merely adjusting an existing block and is not going to achieve what you want.

Thank you GBR. Yes Chris Kerr's work definitely looks amazing, but as I said, at 1800 a suit, I could only order the one and would have to wait possibly quite some time before I can order another. If I cannot get an acceptably similar quality/style at 1200 then I might end up doing that nonetheless.

Information on MTM duly noted as well.

Hi MrSquid,

we would be happy to discuss your bespoke wardrobe with you www.adamrobertsbespoke.com

We offer both semi bespoke and full bespoke there is a difference in the price. With semi bespoke starting at £795, and full bespoke starting at £1600.

We offer a full visiting service or you can come in to us at the showroom in Moorgate. All of our garments are made in Leeds. We stock cloths from all over the world from Loro Piana & Caccioppoli in Italy, to dugdale & scabal.

I would be happy to discuss further.

Kind regards

Adam

Thank you for giving me that information, Adam. I am taking it on board and will consider it.
Would you mind telling me what you mean by semi-bespoke? What are the differences between that and full bespoke? Thank you!

 

[ad101145]



Thank you GBR. Yes Chris Kerr's work definitely looks amazing, but as I said, at 1800 a suit, I could only order the one and would have to wait possibly quite some time before I can order another. If I cannot get an acceptably similar quality/style at 1200 then I might end up doing that nonetheless. 

Information on MTM duly noted as well.



Thank you for giving me that information, Adam. I am taking it on board and will consider it.
Would you mind telling me what you mean by semi-bespoke? What are the differences between that and full bespoke? Thank you!

Full bespoke is all cut and seen together by hand. This will include as many fittings as needed. All hand finishing and full floating canvas. Our semi bespoke garments have the pattern cut by hand but are put together using a sewing machine, we still include hand button holes and full canvassing in this option.

a few quick tips regardless to whoever you may get to make your suits for you.

- Make sure your cloth choice is from a known cloth merchant
- if you hear that your garment is fused run a mile.
- if you are looking at a visiting tailor, then ask a few of them to come in and visit you. You have no obligation to go ahead with anything. Also it would be a good chance to see one of there suits.

Hope this helps

Adam

 

[MrSquid]

Full bespoke is all cut and seen together by hand. This will include as many fittings as needed. All hand finishing and full floating canvas. Our semi bespoke garments have the pattern cut by hand but are put together using a sewing machine, we still include hand button holes and full canvassing in this option.

a few quick tips regardless to whoever you may get to make your suits for you.

- Make sure your cloth choice is from a known cloth merchant
- if you hear that your garment is fused run a mile.
- if you are looking at a visiting tailor, then ask a few of them to come in and visit you. You have no obligation to go ahead with anything. Also it would be a good chance to see one of there suits.

Hope this helps

Adam

Thank you Adam, it definitely does help. I have a couple more questions that have popped into my mind:
1) For the semi-bespoke service, is the pattern cut from my measurements? Am I correct in thinking that it is different from MTM, where an existing pattern would be adapted?
2) Also, I know that some tailoring houses have a distinctive style. Would you mind describing me yours in a few words, or even better, pointing me towards some place where I could view a few pictures of some suits you've made?
I guess at some point I will just take one day and make the rounds of the tailors I would be interested in, then decide based on that Things like those are always better discussed in person!

__

Also if you chaps on ST have any more information, good or bad, about the tailors I have heard about elsewhere (Sims & MacDonald, Connock & Lockie, Graham Browne, Cad & The dandy) I would be very grateful.

 

[ad101145]



Thank you Adam, it definitely does help. I have a couple more questions that have popped into my mind:
1) For the semi-bespoke service, is the pattern cut from my measurements? Am I correct in thinking that it is different from MTM, where an existing pattern would be adapted?
2) Also, I know that some tailoring houses have a distinctive style. Would you mind describing me yours in a few words, or even better, pointing me towards some place where I could view a few pictures of some suits you've made?
I guess at some point I will just take one day and make the rounds of the tailors I would be interested in, then decide based on that Things like those are always better discussed in person!

__

Also if you chaps on ST have any more information, good or bad, about the tailors I have heard about elsewhere (Sims & MacDonald, Connock & Lockie, Graham Browne, Cad & The dandy) I would be very grateful.

All patterns are cut using the measurements we take from you. You are correct that if someone advise it is cut from a block they would be giving you made to measure. We have a couple for pictures on the website, in terms of the cut. We can do either a very stylised slim cut like you would find from Italy, we the Neapolitan shoulders and higher armhole. Or the more traditional English cut. But because it is cut by hand it is down to you on how you want your cloth cut and the look you are going for.

Agreed - you will really only find out the right person for you by speaking with them face to face and seeing the suits too !