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First fitting for a suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by alchimiste, Mar 7, 2005.

  1. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior Member

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    Tonight, I'll have my first fitting for a suit I ordered from a local tailor. What are the important things to have in mind? what should I pay attention to (both in terms of fit and worksmanship)?

    Mathieu
     


  2. Alias

    Alias Distinguished Member

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    The first fitting will most likely be a basted jacket (with visible canvas on the lapels) that may or may not have sleeves loosely attached, and the trousers (also unfinished.) This is the first chance you get to inspect the cut and fit, and depending on how fast your tailor wants to work, it might be your last chance to make any drastic changes (button height, pockets, jacket length, lapel gorge, trouser pleats, armhole height, etc.)

    It's going to be a little hard trying to envision the finished suit from a first fitting, but try your best and don't be afraid to ask questions.
     


  3. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    The tailor will be able to see more than you probably. about what the suit needs.

    Just look to see if there are any styling issues you want fixed. Make sure jacket length and sleeve length and what you want. Confirm any details that may still be a question.

    most of all have fun, it's an exciting process.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Some things to look out for, since the further you are into the process, the harder they are to correct:

    1) Drop.  Most men have one shoulder that is lower than the other.  This can make the shoulders look unbalanced.  Worse, it makes the coat hang down farther on one side (the dropped side) so that the waist button and buttonhole don't line up.  Easy enough to correct if you catch it early, so look for it.

    2) Shoulder width.   How wide the shoulders of a coat end up is partly a matter of fit and partly a matter of silhouette; i.e., partly utlititarian and partly aesthectic.  Wider shoulders balance a body with slight shoulders and larger hips.  But unless they are super soft, they will not allow as much freedom of movement as will close shoulders.  This, again, gets harder to alter the further along you are in the process, so decide what you like as early as you can.

    3) Sleeve pitch.  99.7% of men's arms pitch forward when they are allowed to hang naturally.  But the angle differs from individual to individual.  The pitch of the coat sleeves must match the actual angle of your arms' pitch if the sleeves are to hang smoothly.  Check this at the basted fitting, BEFORE the shoulder is sewn.

    4) Trouser line.  Both the front and back trouser creases should hang more or less straight all the way to the break at the shoe (if you choose to have a break).  For various reasons, it is easier to get the front crease right than the back crease.  If the back crease looks sloppy, the most likely reason is that the trouser rise is too low in back.  Get that fixed BEFORE the waistband is sewn.
     


  5. Giona Granata

    Giona Granata Senior Member

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    If it is your first fitting, I would look to:

    1- jacket length
    2- waist positioning
    3- button stance

    The suggestion from Manton about sleeves pitch is brilliant. Everyone has a different place where he is holding arms.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Yes; this is not so hard to change later in the process -- BUT it is much better to get it right BEFORE the pockets are cut and in place, so that the coat balance is correct.

    Excellent point. If this is not done right early, it never will be.

    This is a little easier to change than the waist poisition, but the two are so interdependent that it's best to address them at the same time.
     


  7. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    I second the motion that the sleeve pitch is definitely something to look for. My arms do not hang forward, as most so, then hang pretty much straight down. When hanging normally in a "normal" sleeve, it cause the rear of the sleeve to bunch up. So, my sleeves need to be adjusted to be straighter. Definitely something to look for.
     


  8. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior Member

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    It's OK, they took it into account.
    I am of the "slight shoulders and larger hips" kind so I understand that the shoulders should not be too narrow. But the shoulders looked huge, way too extended to look natural. So this will be changed (I have a second fitting this evening).
    OK, I'll check this with the new shoulders.
    I ordered a pair of trousers from them and received them yesterday when I had the fitting. I wore them in my apt last night and noticed that the crease tends to go outwards then back in, which makes my legs look like they are very bowed. I don't want to look like a cow boy. So I have the trousers with me and I'll see tonight what can be changed. I guess that removing the cuffs and having slanted hems would remove some material in the front and help fix this problem. But can this be fixed without the cuff removal? Mathieu
     


  9. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior Member

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    I had two fittings in the past two days. Thanks to those who provided me with help. Follow-up question: what should I check when I get the suit (in about a week) ?

    Mathieu
     


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