First dress shoes: How should they fit?

[jonsnowflow]

Hi guys,

This week, I ordered my first pay of dress shoes, more specifically, the Loake Aldwych black (I know brown is common). Actually, I bought three pairs in different sizes to find the right size, as they do not sell these shoes in my country.

But even with three sizes, I am not sure which of to of the sizes fit me best. The largest one (size 43,5) is a bit loose in the heel when walking and the laces do not make a V-shape, as I have heard they are supposed to. The other pair (size 43,5) feels nicer to wear, but at the same time my little toe hits the left size of the shoe (only on my left foot). Are they going to feel to tight in the long end?

As you can read, I am in a dilemma: Should I pick smaller size or the larger size? I really cannot decide. I have tried to walk around with them both, but it is not enough to decide if the smaller shoes are too tight.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

These are always tough questions to answer as we don’t own your feet.

If the shoe is loose when it’s new, then it’s a non-starter. It’s not going to tighten as it ages. Having a bit of heel slippage is normal and should resolve as the cork footbed gives and molds, but if the laces are fully closed then it’s likely it’s just too big.

Contrary to what you may hear, not on SF I would think, shoes don’t loosen and if the shoe is uncomfortable and pinching you out of the box then that’s bad news too.

The shoe should be comfortable. A new shoe is stiff. That’s normal. It will break in, but it should not be tight or pinching.

those are the general rules I follow. Within that framework there is a lot of variability and personal preference.

Bear in mind, too, that not all lasts are ideal for a man and his given foot. It may just be that this particular shoe, regardless of size, is not right.

 

[BXpress]

My formula for new shoes is this:

little to no heel slippage, no sliding forward, and no pressure/pain when sitting or standing.

When i walk i am willing to accept a tiny bit of pain as you really can't find the ideal fit on a pair of RTW shoes. There will always be one or two minor areas that don't fit right from the start. Something you have to accept, but yes minor issues will go away after some time. Major issues like a too high instep, which will inevitably lead to heel slippage won't go away (it can be helped somewhat by a tounge pad), neither will a too long shoe.

For example i recently bought Cheaney Avon R, and their instep,length and width were just perfect. Even so, for the first two weeks the closure of the left shoe did cut into my ankle and both heels were grinding against my skin. After two weeks of short distance wearing (in summer heat) it all went away and now they are perfect.

One important and sometimes overlooked part of breaking in new shoes is the choice of your socks. Try out socks of varying thickness.

 

[JFWR]

I generally suggest going for a shoe a tiny bit too big over a shoe way too small. But ideally, you want a snug fit that lets you have enough room/no pain. It will take time to break in shoes, though.

 

[DrapeCut]

My formula for new shoes is this:

little to no heel slippage, no sliding forward, and no pressure/pain when sitting or standing.

When i walk i am willing to accept a tiny bit of pain as you really can't find the ideal fit on a pair of RTW shoes. There will always be one or two minor areas that don't fit right from the start. Something you have to accept, but yes minor issues will go away after some time. Major issues like a too high instep, which will inevitably lead to heel slippage won't go away (it can be helped somewhat by a tounge pad), neither will a too long shoe.

For example i recently bought Cheaney Avon R, and their instep,length and width were just perfect. Even so, for the first two weeks the closure of the left shoe did cut into my ankle and both heels were grinding against my skin. After two weeks of short distance wearing (in summer heat) it all went away and now they are perfect.

One important and sometimes overlooked part of breaking in new shoes is the choice of your socks. Try out socks of varying thickness.

This is very helpful! No RTW shoe will ever be a perfect fit and we must always compromise in some way. I

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Snug, but it shouldn't be crowding your toes or crushing your foot. The heel should be narrower than the fronts, and you should need a shoe-horn to put them on.

If you can slip them on without a shoe-horn while they're brand new, then they're too big - assuming we are talking about laced shoes, of course.