First custom suit non-negotiables

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gotribe, Jul 30, 2016.

  1. gotribe

    gotribe Well-Known Member

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    I have an appointment at Enzo Custom Suit in NYC a couple weeks from now and I want to get my first custom suit. I'm hoping to stay under $1K which I know limits my options to some extent. This will only be my second suit so I know I want fairly traditional styling. The primary purpose will be for weddings, interviews, and other formal events.

    Here's what I have in mind:
    • 100% wool
    • Solid charcoal
    • 2 buttons
    • Flap pockets
    • Slimmer (but not crazy slim) notch lapels

    What other characteristics should I consider and ask about during my appointment? Thanks in advance.
     


  2. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Consider rethinking your stance on lapels.
     


  3. Marc Voorhees

    Marc Voorhees Senior member

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    To expand on this a bit, if you go too slim with your lapels you run the risk of having a very dated suit very quickly. I would stick with some classic width lapels to get the most use and value out of your investment.

    Best

    Marc
     


  4. gotribe

    gotribe Well-Known Member

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    Probably a good call. Is there an accepted range of lapel widths that is considered timeless?
     


  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    It depends on the width of the shoulders and chest. Lapels should fall somewhere within a proportional range based on those things.
     


  6. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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  8. double00

    double00 Senior member

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    this is such an interesting question because you see the extremes of this range almost side by side these days...

    averaging academic's range you get 1/2 of the distance from the inner edge of the lapel to the sleeve head at the widest point.

    but you know how i like to think of this? imagine that the weather unexpectedly turns shitty and your jacket is all you've got. turn up the collar and close the lapels, yeah? i consider that the 'classic' width is one that actually closes (unlike slim lapels which will leave you helpless) but doesn't leave a preposterous amount of extra fabric (like the 70s proportions)

    not that i would ever wear a suit in this way, mind you. it's just allowing aesthetics to follow natural function which is not a bad north star imo. i would also add that this kind of question is part and parcel of the style and location of gorge, button stance, shoulder style etc etc so the answer does not really exist in a vacuum.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  9. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I'd definitely go fairly classic lapels in this case. I would also consider the advice of the tailor very seriously. Too often custom suits turn out looking like crap because the customer decides to play designer. That said, if you have something very specific in mind, you should stick to your guns. For example, a lot of bootmakers will caution against natural crepe soles because "they get dirty really easily", and want to put some sort of edge dressing on them. If the idea was to make a pair of boots that will look a little rugged and grungy, that is a styling decision.

    However, in this specific case, it doesn't seem like you have a very idiosyncratic concept of what you want. Because of this, I would definitely take that advice given above.
     


  11. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    By the by, what evidence backs this claim up?
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  12. double00

    double00 Senior member

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    Golden ratio. Nootch.
     


  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Where is the evidence that the golden ratio is a classic determiner of lapel width?
     


  14. double00

    double00 Senior member

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    Twas a joke. You're asking for evidence to support an aesthetic standard.

    Could ask you for evidence that 1/3 is too narrow...
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016


  15. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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