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First Custom and Jantzen Shirt. Need Advice.

aloncc

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Joined
Sep 7, 2009
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After years of frustration with OTR button down shirts I am finally going to try custom. While the advent of slim fit shirts has helped (I am 6-2 150lbs), the selection is limited and often they are too tight around the chest and still some what fluffy around the body.

Being that I have limited means (the most I ever spent on a shirt was $50) that pretty much leave me with Jantzen for which I have various question and am seeking general advice. I am impressed with their breath of designs/colors/options.

The following are the issues I would like to get some thoughts on. Please respond to the issues using the numbers I have used below. I know its exhaustive - you don't have to comment on everything especially if someone else already answered:

1) Fit - to get the right fit the first time (or at least improve my chances), would you recommend sending in a shirt that I would like copied with a couple of slight modifications or get measured at a tailor and send the measurements in? I have included a picture of the shirt I am thinking of sending in. Please give me some advice as to whether I should make some modification to it in order to get the perfect fit.

2) Quality - How does the quality of the fabrics compare to OTR shirts that range from $45-90 full price? (I typically then buy these shirts on sale). I just don't want to be purchasing anything worse.

3) Quality - On the Jantzen website, is there any practical difference in quality between the Cotton Fabric, Extra Fine Cotton, and Pure Cotton Fabric options?

4) Weave - I hate shirts that wrinkle too easily. I have been seeing different fabric weave types like Poplin, Super Compact Poplin, Herringbone, champery, Broadcloth, Oxford, Pinpoint, and Twill. Please list the fabrics in order from most likely to resist wrinkles to least likely. I understand that this is in general only and can vary based on the quality of the fabric.

5) Weave - Also, I generally like to purchase shirt that can go with dress and chino pants. Which weaves are better suited for that dual purpose?

6) Weave - which ones are more susceptible to shrinkage? Also, should I request a larger size or do they generally provide adequate allowance on their own?

7) Customer service - Based on the threads I have read, I know Jantzen is not highly rated on reliability. Has anyone had issues getting the shirt back (the one sent in to be copied)?

8) Customer service - What happens if the shirt fits really poorly? Can I send it back for alterations? Who pays for shipping each way?

9) Fit - for sizing options and based on the picture, what type of shoulder do I have: Square/Regular/Slope?

10) Fit - What does wrist allowance mean?

11) Fit - Often the shoulders are tight with the fabric puckering from the top button across the chest to the shoulder. Is a split yoke better for this? Do back pleats effect this?


 

WhateverYouLike

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These are all answered in the Jantzen thread, but in short:

Originally Posted by aloncc
After years of frustration with OTR button down shirts I am finally going to try custom. While the advent of slim fit shirts has helped (I am 6-2 150lbs), the selection is limited and often they are too tight around the chest and still some what fluffy around the body.

Being that I have limited means (the most I ever spent on a shirt was $50) that pretty much leave me with Jantzen for which I have various question and am seeking general advice. I am impressed with their breath of designs/colors/options.

The following are the issues I would like to get some thoughts on. Please respond to the issues using the numbers I have used below. I know its exhaustive - you don't have to comment on everything especially if someone else already answered:

1) Fit - to get the right fit the first time (or at least improve my chances), would you recommend sending in a shirt that I would like copied with a couple of slight modifications or get measured at a tailor and send the measurements in? I have included a picture of the shirt I am thinking of sending in. Please give me some advice as to whether I should make some modification to it in order to get the perfect fit.

Either way works, but just FYI your first shirt 99% of the time will not be satisfactory. First shirt is a test shirt. If you can't accept that there's a 50 dollar entry fee, don't do it. Don't be one of those douches whining about how a shirt doesn't fit when it's a personal measuring problem.

2) Quality - How does the quality of the fabrics compare to OTR shirts that range from $45-90 full price? (I typically then buy these shirts on sale). I just don't want to be purchasing anything worse.

Get the superfine fabrics. They are almost always heads and shoulders better than lower/mid range OTR shirts.

3) Quality - On the Jantzen website, is there any practical difference in quality between the Cotton Fabric, Extra Fine Cotton, and Pure Cotton Fabric options?

^

4) Weave - I hate shirts that wrinkle too easily. I have been seeing different fabric weave types like Poplin, Super Compact Poplin, Herringbone, champery, Broadcloth, Oxford, Pinpoint, and Twill. Please list the fabrics in order from most likely to resist wrinkles to least likely. I understand that this is in general only and can vary based on the quality of the fabric.

5) Weave - Also, I generally like to purchase shirt that can go with dress and chino pants. Which weaves are better suited for that dual purpose?

6) Weave - which ones are more susceptible to shrinkage? Also, should I request a larger size or do they generally provide adequate allowance on their own?

7) Customer service - Based on the threads I have read, I know Jantzen is not highly rated on reliability. Has anyone had issues getting the shirt back (the one sent in to be copied)?

8) Customer service - What happens if the shirt fits really poorly? Can I send it back for alterations? Who pays for shipping each way?

No. See #1.

9) Fit - for sizing options and based on the picture, what type of shoulder do I have: Square/Regular/Slope?

Sloped.

10) Fit - What does wrist allowance mean?

If you're looking on the order form, no allowance means don't leave space between your measuring tape and your wrist.

11) Fit - Often the shoulders are tight with the fabric puckering from the top button across the chest to the shoulder. Is a split yoke better for this? Do back pleats effect this?
 

bowtielover

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Nov 1, 2007
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The sleeves are a little long and it is boxy in the waist.
 

Millerp

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
610
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14
I know it's not what you are asking, but have you ever thought of just
having a local tailor adjust your ready made shirts?

The fit of the shirt in the picture really isn't bad.

You could have the sleeves shortened and the waist tapered quite easily.
 

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