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First Commission, First Fitting to finished Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cocteau, Nov 12, 2011.

  1. cocteau

    cocteau Member

    Messages:
    21
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Hello everyone,

    after having read geralds threads showing his tailors work, i gave it a try and commissioned a suit. at the moment were half way through the process and there are things I´m happy with and others Im not yet contempt with though I have a good feeling were going somewhere. My suit is a peak lapel single breasted suit with a rather classical cut. The pants are supposed to have pleads, be high waist and drop straight in the front and the back. The jacket is supposed to be only slightly padded and else look rather normal.

    On the first fitting I took some pictures with my mobilephone camera so they are not very good. But I hope they are sufficent to allow you helping me a little. Im especially interested about your thoughts about what cut fits my body.

    [​IMG]
    The lapel is still half made so no need to talk about where the peaks are.

    1. But whats your opinion about the button stance? Lower it a bit? how much if yes? At the moment its just stitched with a needle and there is no button)
    2. Would you take in the sides a bit?
    3. would you shorten the jacket a little? how much if yes?

    [​IMG]
    The shoulders are a bit wrong. Will be corrected, no need to talk about

    [​IMG]


    4.Id take in the back a little. what do you say?
    5. I think i need more cloth on the front of my trousers? difficult to say when theyre stitched up to a shorter length around the knees but i have this impression. Id like to have a very straight leg which is rather wide at the feet because they are huge.



    [​IMG]

    6. same question as number 5. almost. since i run a lot my lower back leg is strong. what to do that it doesnt show off and how to get the straight front line?
    [​IMG]

    7. more or less cloth to make the butt proper?
    8. i think the back ironing folds might better be a bit mor apart?

    9. some of my questions are dictated by my inexperience. Please tell me more useful things to know for the next fitting.

    Regards and thanks Cocteau
     
  2. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

    Messages:
    5,059
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    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    If your tailor doesn't know how to correct all these defects then maybe you should find a better tailor.
     
  3. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

    Messages:
    2,510
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    1. Lower; half an inch?
    2. Yes, a bit.
    3. Nope, but trust your tailor.
    4. Trust your tailor.
    5. I am confused here; see 4.
    6. Are you talking about your calves? In any case, see 4.
    7. See 4.
    8. See 4.
    9. See 4.
     
  4. academe

    academe Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Initium sapientiae timor domini
    I've used Gerald's tailor with good results. I think with a first commission you should try not to micromanage, especially given your own admited lack of experience. Trust your tailor, wear what they've made, and save any minor adjustments or stylistic tweaks for subsequent commissions. Don't expect perfection with your first commission with a new tailor...
     
  5. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    7,458
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    


    Sound advice here but be prepared to change you tailor as is suggested in Sanguis Mortuum's post above. This is a bit concerning.

    There is also only one back pocket - two would look better and if one is your tailor's doing I would be concerned as it suggests he is trying to save himself work.
     
  6. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Initium sapientiae timor domini
    

    I think it's difficult to say too much at the basted fitting stage, given that one of the goals of this exercise in the first place is for the tailor themselves to figure out what they might need to adjust for the final finished garment. I've had garments from SR tailors that don't look particular inspiring at this stage, and have turned out to be excellent pieces of work in the end. My experience with this tailor (having commissioned 4 garments with them so far) regarding stylistic detailing is that they have been open to suggestions from the customer and haven't suggested stylistic details that would reduce their workload; your suggestions re: the pockets tend to indicate a suspicious/cynical frame of mind that I would not condone, having worked with these tailors in particular.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011
  7. cocteau

    cocteau Member

    Messages:
    21
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Thanks for your advice so far. I won't change my tailor because it's kind of the only one in town. I fully trust they know how to correct but I'd like to independently educate myself because I can then in future talk more precise with them. The missing pocket is my wish btw. I don't use it at all.
    I'll post something from the next fitting.
    Cocteau
     

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