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First chan suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, May 23, 2005.

  1. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Well guys, I got my first tailored suit - ordered from ww chan because of the good feedback on this board.

    The big thing I noticed in the fit is that the armholes are high (as expected for it being tailred) and I feel it right under my arm pit. It doesn't hinder mobility but it's the first time I've felt a suit under my armpit. Is that what is supposed to happen in tailored suits?

    I love the details on the suit and the shoulders fit well. I didn't get a ticket pocket but I hear that is the trendy thing to get these days. What about you guys?

    Sorry, I don't have pics 'cause I sent it to be pressed and I don't have a digital camera.
     
  2. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As long as it doesn't tickle a high armhole is generally a good thing. Ticket pockets are trendy which means that in 18 months it will be trendy to look down on them. Only if you find that last sentence completely irrelevant to how you approach dressing should you get a ticket pocket.
     
  3. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Could you give us some more info about your purchase? Where did you get it fitted? What fabric did you get?
     
  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I was fitted in NYC during their visit in March. I got a 2 button, dark gray, super 150. Apparently their 2 buttons are higher in position and the top button is closer in position to that of a 3 button.
     
  5. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Your suits sounds much like the one that I got last fall. I think Mr. Chu really likes that high-stance, two-button style.

    On another note, have any other Chan-ites gotten their March orders yet? Chu had said "late June" to me, but now I'm gonna start getting impatient.
     
  6. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    I've yet to receive my March order (suit and shirt) yet, although I received the suit jacket that Patrick altered after the March visit. He also told me "late June."
     
  7. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    (JLibourel @ May 23 2005,14:10) Your suits sounds much like the one that I got last fall. I think Mr. Chu really likes that high-stance, two-button style. On another note, have any other Chan-ites gotten their March orders yet? Chu had said "late June" to me, but now I'm gonna start getting impatient.
    I've yet to receive my March order (suit and shirt) yet, although I received the suit jacket that Patrick altered after the March visit. He also told me "late June."
    As I recall, your major problem with your first Chan suit was too-long sleeves. Was the garment altered to your total satisfaction?
     
  8. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    (Vintage Gent @ May 23 2005,15:07)
    Your suits sounds much like the one that I got last fall. I think Mr. Chu really likes that high-stance, two-button style. On another note, have any other Chan-ites gotten their March orders yet? Chu had said "late June" to me, but now I'm gonna start getting impatient.
    I've yet to receive my March order (suit and shirt) yet, although I received the suit jacket that Patrick altered after the March visit. He also told me "late June."
    As I recall, your major problem with your first Chan suit was too-long sleeves. Was the garment altered to your total satisfaction?
    It was. Patrick did a superb job of fixing the sleeve length and adding more waist suppression.
     
  9. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    Received mine yesterday. I was measured in Chicago in early March. Sleeves are a bit (1/4 to 1/2 inch) too long and the skirt is a little too closed for my taste. All in all, though, I am extremely pleased.
     
  10. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    I agree about the closed skirt. It's my one quibble with Chan. I wonder if Chan is able, and willing, to modify the pattern so that the skirt has a bit more of a curve and a greater degree of openness? I'll ask when Patrick returns to San Francisco this summer.

    I made the mistake of ordering a 3 button. They basically just added a non-functioning button hole and button--much like the old Brooks Bros jackets of yesteryear. I wish it were just a two button since the stance is already, as mentioned above, rather high. Seems kind of silly to have a decorative button on the coat. But I have noticed that Isaia produces a similar top button. So I take some comfort in knowing that there is at least some precedent for this odd touch.
     
  11. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    That is strange. I have several three button WW Chan suits and none of them are rolled to the middle button. I did not ask for it that way, and assumed that to be the default.

    The way mine are done is more Isaia than Brooks, i.e. the top button is visible and not rolled under, and the buttonhole is precisely at the level where the roll ends rather than being higher up on the rolled lapel like a classic Brooks suit
     
  12. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Could the difference between the 3-button suit DandySF got and yours possibly be attributable to the different styles of Patrick Chu and his predecessor Ronald Kiang?
     
  13. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Out of curiosity, did you discuss button stance or lapel roll with Patrick?

    dan
     
  14. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    Patrick and I discussed what I wanted and what he recommended. Obviously this point could have been discussed in greater detail. I'll be more insistent next time in finding out what the finished item will actually look like. The morale of the story here is to go over each point in detail and get very clear about what you want and what Patrick can actually deliver.

    I brought in pictures of jackets I liked from Paul Stuart, Hickey Freeman, and Huntsman. I figured my jacket would be a hybrid of the three. So, I was somewhat surprised by the top button placement. The lapel rolls down to the middle button. The top button is virtually behind or within the lapel roll.
     
  15. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Err... and what is the problem of that?
     
  16. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    (DandySF @ May 24 2005,16:32) The lapel rolls down to the middle button. The top button is virtually behind or within the lapel roll.
    Err... and what is the problem of that?
    Kind of my first thought about this business as well. There is certainly nothing offbeat about this. My best sport coat (a Ralph Lauren I picked up about 8 years ago, dunno the vendor but made in USA) has this feature.
     
  17. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    How many of you make another appointment after you get your suit just to let Patrick take a look at it and see what he should change. It seems to me that he has a good eye and will tell you what he needs to change. Or is it more proactive where you have to tell him the details?

    I wonder if I can get more waist suppression but Patrick mentioned that if you get too much, it would look too much like a skirt. On me at least - apparently I have big legs.
     
  18. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I would guess that many (most? all?) of the forumites who use WW Chan have made multiple orders, in which case you are definitely going to see them more than once. They ask you to wear your most recent suit when you show up for repeat appointments. You can discuss alteration work with them and they will have you ship the suit back to HK for the work.

    Their former general manager Raymond Kiang used to do all of the US tours. When I went back for a second order he did suggest some tweaks to the original suit. He also advised against making some adjustments that I was considering, and was probably correct in doing so. Patrick seems to have the same approach, though I've only met with him once.

    Can't help you on the waist suppression issue (sight unseen) but too much suppression definitely can look odd.
     
  19. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    (naturlaut @ May 24 2005,18:10)
    The lapel rolls down to the middle button. Â The top button is virtually behind or within the lapel roll.
    Err... and what is the problem of that?
    Kind of my first thought about this business as well. There is certainly nothing offbeat about this. My best sport coat (a Ralph Lauren I picked up about 8 years ago, dunno the vendor but made in USA) has this feature.
    Well, it is a Neapolitan tradition that many others have caught on (Brioni has a model with this roll-to-second-button lapel). The thing is, not many tailors in Hong Kong know about this, or have the ability to do it, even though it is actually not that difficult. As Patrick is trained as a cutter himself (20 years with the firm, I might add), he has a pretty good eye. If you are seeing him personally, you should definitely discuss what you want while keeping an open ear for his advice. From my experiences, most mistakes come from the workers/tailors upstairs (one floor above the shop). Never have I seen so many mistakes in all my tailoring experiences than the tailors I've used in Hong Kong. Up till now, I haven't received a single commission without some kind of careless mistakes (wrong cuff, wrong pocket, wrong buttoning position, wrong collar, etc.). One thing good about bigger establishments in Hong Kong like Chan or Chang is that they will gracefully correct their mistakes, even when incurring a loss to the firm; other smaller shops will make a big fuss about it. Please note: I am not trying to make a racist remark, but the statistic is really appalling. In conclusion: check your suit/shirt for any mistakes, and check carefully.
     
  20. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    My perceived problem has vanished. When the jacket arrived in February I took it out of the FedEx box and placed it on a hanger. Evidently the lapels were somewhat flattened. I'd always intended to gently press out the slight crease with an iron. This morning I pressed the jacket front and the lapels now fall in a wonderful three dimensional roll. Finally the jacket looks as I'd always intended. It's as if it came to life and bloomed. The buttonhole now is nearly perpendicular to the jacket front, rather than parallel--a vast and satisfying improvement.
     

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