First chan suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by poorsod, May 23, 2005.

  1. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Well guys, I got my first tailored suit - ordered from ww chan because of the good feedback on this board.

    The big thing I noticed in the fit is that the armholes are high (as expected for it being tailred) and I feel it right under my arm pit. It doesn't hinder mobility but it's the first time I've felt a suit under my armpit. Is that what is supposed to happen in tailored suits?

    I love the details on the suit and the shoulders fit well. I didn't get a ticket pocket but I hear that is the trendy thing to get these days. What about you guys?

    Sorry, I don't have pics 'cause I sent it to be pressed and I don't have a digital camera.
     


  2. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    As long as it doesn't tickle a high armhole is generally a good thing. Ticket pockets are trendy which means that in 18 months it will be trendy to look down on them. Only if you find that last sentence completely irrelevant to how you approach dressing should you get a ticket pocket.
     


  3. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Could you give us some more info about your purchase? Where did you get it fitted? What fabric did you get?
     


  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I was fitted in NYC during their visit in March. I got a 2 button, dark gray, super 150. Apparently their 2 buttons are higher in position and the top button is closer in position to that of a 3 button.
     


  5. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Your suits sounds much like the one that I got last fall. I think Mr. Chu really likes that high-stance, two-button style.

    On another note, have any other Chan-ites gotten their March orders yet? Chu had said "late June" to me, but now I'm gonna start getting impatient.
     


  6. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    I've yet to receive my March order (suit and shirt) yet, although I received the suit jacket that Patrick altered after the March visit. He also told me "late June."
     


  7. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    (JLibourel @ May 23 2005,14:10) Your suits sounds much like the one that I got last fall. I think Mr. Chu really likes that high-stance, two-button style. On another note, have any other Chan-ites gotten their March orders yet? Chu had said "late June" to me, but now I'm gonna start getting impatient.
    I've yet to receive my March order (suit and shirt) yet, although I received the suit jacket that Patrick altered after the March visit. He also told me "late June."
    As I recall, your major problem with your first Chan suit was too-long sleeves. Was the garment altered to your total satisfaction?
     


  8. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    (Vintage Gent @ May 23 2005,15:07)
    Your suits sounds much like the one that I got last fall. I think Mr. Chu really likes that high-stance, two-button style. On another note, have any other Chan-ites gotten their March orders yet? Chu had said "late June" to me, but now I'm gonna start getting impatient.
    I've yet to receive my March order (suit and shirt) yet, although I received the suit jacket that Patrick altered after the March visit. He also told me "late June."
    As I recall, your major problem with your first Chan suit was too-long sleeves. Was the garment altered to your total satisfaction?
    It was. Patrick did a superb job of fixing the sleeve length and adding more waist suppression.
     


  9. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    Received mine yesterday. I was measured in Chicago in early March. Sleeves are a bit (1/4 to 1/2 inch) too long and the skirt is a little too closed for my taste. All in all, though, I am extremely pleased.
     


  10. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    I agree about the closed skirt. It's my one quibble with Chan. I wonder if Chan is able, and willing, to modify the pattern so that the skirt has a bit more of a curve and a greater degree of openness? I'll ask when Patrick returns to San Francisco this summer.

    I made the mistake of ordering a 3 button. They basically just added a non-functioning button hole and button--much like the old Brooks Bros jackets of yesteryear. I wish it were just a two button since the stance is already, as mentioned above, rather high. Seems kind of silly to have a decorative button on the coat. But I have noticed that Isaia produces a similar top button. So I take some comfort in knowing that there is at least some precedent for this odd touch.
     


  11. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    That is strange. I have several three button WW Chan suits and none of them are rolled to the middle button. I did not ask for it that way, and assumed that to be the default.

    The way mine are done is more Isaia than Brooks, i.e. the top button is visible and not rolled under, and the buttonhole is precisely at the level where the roll ends rather than being higher up on the rolled lapel like a classic Brooks suit
     


  12. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Could the difference between the 3-button suit DandySF got and yours possibly be attributable to the different styles of Patrick Chu and his predecessor Ronald Kiang?
     


  13. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Out of curiosity, did you discuss button stance or lapel roll with Patrick?

    dan
     


  14. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    Patrick and I discussed what I wanted and what he recommended. Obviously this point could have been discussed in greater detail. I'll be more insistent next time in finding out what the finished item will actually look like. The morale of the story here is to go over each point in detail and get very clear about what you want and what Patrick can actually deliver.

    I brought in pictures of jackets I liked from Paul Stuart, Hickey Freeman, and Huntsman. I figured my jacket would be a hybrid of the three. So, I was somewhat surprised by the top button placement. The lapel rolls down to the middle button. The top button is virtually behind or within the lapel roll.
     


  15. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Err... and what is the problem of that?
     


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