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First Chan suit received

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jester, Apr 25, 2005.

  1. jester

    jester Senior member

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    A while ago I had a measuring for my first Chan suit. I reported on it as part of this thread: Recent WWChan visit in NYC. At the time I described myself as being disappointed; I felt that Patrick really didn't understand what I was asking for and I was sufficiently concerned that I asked to have a fitting of the unfinished suit. While there were still some issues that needed to be addressed then, it went rather better, and I felt reasonably confident that the final suit would be good. The suit arrived several days ago, and I'm sorry to have to say that I am quite disappointed in the final product. Here are front and back photos: [​IMG] [​IMG] Please excuse my wearing a polo shirt, but it does highlight, without the distraction of cuffs, the fact that that the left sleeve is notably shorter than the right, despite attention having been paid to this in the fitting. Also, the suit was unpressed in the photo, so some wrinkles and bulges should not be the object of criticism. When I went for the original measurement, I was wearing a Savile Row suit that I wanted to use as a general model; it has natural shoulders and a rather supressed waist, both features that I wanted to have in this too. Didn't make it through so well. A concern in the original measuring and the fitting was Patrick's encouraging me to get a much higher button stance than I wanted; in this suit, the middle button is about two inches higher than my navel, leading to the shortened and wide-looking lapels I specifically didn't want. There were other issues as well. The height between the right coat pocket and its ticket pocket is too great. Though it's not visible in the picture, the breast pocket is quite small (in width), so that a pocket square would have to be folded bulgingly to fit into it. And so forth. I will ask for these to be addressed, which will of course take yet another three months until the next Chan visit; I'm not that confident that I'll still get what I want at the end. When I ordered this suit, I was also expecting one from Hemrajani. Though it was also not perfect--Darren had some, er, direct comments when he saw it at the Sartorial Excellence meeting--it is on the whole very good, and as reported originally, I always had the sense that Joe understood what I was asking for. I think in the future I will get another suit from him. I'm interested in others' feedback on this--perhaps everyone thinks this looks just like an Kilgour suit and I'm just being crazy.
     
  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    The sleeve is obviously horrible. I'm sorry to say that I share your concern overall about how this suit turned out.
     
  3. hopkins_student

    hopkins_student Senior member

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    I'm terribly sorry that your experience with Chan was less than stellar. It seems that we go very long periods of time hearing great things about overseas tailors/shirtmakers. Unfortunately something like this occurs often enough to keep me skeptical of engaging the services of such makers.
     
  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A good alterations tailor should be able to sort out most of this, although the button stance, shape of lapel, etc., is something you'll have to live with.

    The perils of not having enough fittings. And the importance of communication. It's not just a language issue-- also one of culture and expectations. If it makes you feel better, I just had a strange episode at Louis Boston that absolutely would not have occurred intentionally with a London tailor.
     
  5. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Mr. Jester --- I apologize in advance for my rather harsh comment --- I think the silhouette is completely wrong.  Shoulders don't fit (right shoulder too wide), the lapel roll is a bit confusing (is it stopping on the first button or rolling down to the second?), the jacket fronts are too closed, the waist is not shaped at all, the left sleeve is not set properly (hence the creases), the pockets are a bit too high (?).  If I were you, I would certainly make a fuss about it (but in a nice way).  

    Please note: it's not that I don't respect the work of a tailor, but in Asia, people are not as dedicated in their work than one would find on the Row or in Italy.
     
  6. PHV

    PHV Senior member

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    That boxy cut looks like Armani collezioni tries to do Saville Row. You shouldn't be happy.
     
  7. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    there is a definite problem with the shoulders. Too wide, too full. It looks like they tried to compensate on the left side with a wider shoulder and a shorter sleeve : no one is perfectly symmetric but it's not like everyone on this planet is a hunch...

    The pockets may be a bit too high but it doesn't shock me that much. Lapel could be narrower too, depends on your preferences.

    .luc
     
  8. marc37

    marc37 Senior member

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    l hate the shoulders on the suit. lt's just my taste though.
     
  9. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

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    Well, since you asked...............

    Trying to focus on the positive, I can honestly say I can't really find anything that I like about this suit. The shoulders appear too wide and padded, the lapel roll seems forced and out of balance (is it supposed to roll to the middle button?), there is little or no waist suppression (which IMO would help to compliment your slim figure), the jacket's skirt appears to go further in at the bottom of the coat, and the left sleeve length (as you indicate) is seriously short, which if the buttonholes have already been cut, will make for an interesting (if even possible) alteration.

    Do you have the option of rejecting this suit? I would consider that if possible. If not, you are going to end up with an expensive suit that rarely sees the light of day.

    Thank you for sharing. Please pardon my criticisms, they are only meant on the purest of constructive terms.
     
  10. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

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    Have you contacted them already? What did they say? Do they agree that the suit is awful?
     
  11. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    These are the perils of dealing with a visting tailor and not having fittings. I would have them do a complete remake. IF you can live with the Chan house style, go for that since that is what they are most comfortable doing.
     
  12. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    What happened between the first fitting and receiving the completed product? I mean, this suit is seriously out of whack -- did things get WORSE after the first fitting? The shoulders are arguably too wide and built up, though this is a problem that I believe is endemic to Chan -- you really have to stress the desire for narrower, more lightly padded, and more natural shoulders. This is especially true if you are of slighter build, which Jester seems to be, because Chan seems to want to build up the thinner guy rather than have the suit more compliment his frame.

    What is more shocking than the shoulders and left sleeve, however, is the fact that the quarters are so closed. I mean, they actually overlap, a la a double breasted coat. This type of mistake is not a mere measuring or house style mistake. It is an unforgiveable cutting mistake. Chan's quarters are not normally too open, but I have no explanation for the quarters on this coat.

    As for the lapels, I don't think Chan should share much blame here. You asked for the lapel to roll to the top button, and this seems to be what you got. It likely is meant to be buttoned, which is why it looks odd with the top button undone.
     
  13. spatten

    spatten Senior member

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    What is up with the three almost full length darts in the back? Is this something you requested?

    It is a feature I am not used to seeing on a suit.
     
  14. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    I sure wish I could find the thread where me and someone were fighting about Chan. Not to say I told you so, but I told you so.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think those are just folds that have not been pressed out. Only the center backseam is really a seam. At least it looks that way to me.
     
  16. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    We've heard bad things about MTM Zegna, etc. too though. I think the most apt warning is that MTM can turn out seriously wrong, especially if you have had no experience with the silhouette that the maker cuts. The problem with Chan -- and we shall see if it is a problem or not depending on the resolution of Jester's suit -- is that they may not be willing to refund the money of someone who gets a suit that is unwearable (or recuts the thing for free).

    I have always been fairly adamant that the best part of MTM is having control over the fabric and styling details -- if you want to be sure of the silhouette etc. you are much better off going OTR and getting $150 - $200 of alterations done at a competent tailor.
     
  17. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    For what it is worth, as a maker I would be ashamed at this and remake it. No ifs, no buts, no questions ... and no matter what the price.

    I would be very surprised if Chan did not feel the same upon receiving these photos. Have you tried?

    Alex
     
  18. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I agree with Alex. If nothing else, the level of customer service at Chan is indicative that, if nothing else, they are a proud company.
     
  19. JBZ

    JBZ Senior member

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    Not to go off on too much of a tangent, but I would think that, to the extent you want to try MTM, you should find a clothing store which has 2 or 3 (or more) MTM programs. Most such stores will also carry the same makers in its OTR styles. This would allow you the luxury of trying on the OTR suits of the various makers and identifying the one that fits you the best. Logic would dictate that if a suit fits reasonably well OTR, a MTM suit would fit even better. However, if the OTR suit does not fit well, a MTM suit by the same designer might be lacking (for example, Hickey Freeman generally does not fit me well OTR - I would be very hesitant before purchasing a MTM HF suit).

    Regards,

    Jeff
     
  20. encooper

    encooper Member

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    Oct 9, 2004
    What is the Chan house style discussed by bry2000?
     

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