First Chan suit-- please critique

[chorse123]

Did you ask for a coat on the shorter side, or is that how Chan is cutting them? It could be the pictures, but it looks a little short to me. Not bad - certainly au courant. In fact it looks good.

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by chorse123

Did you ask for a coat on the shorter side, or is that how Chan is cutting them? It could be the pictures, but it looks a little short to me. Not bad - certainly au courant. In fact it looks good.
My Chan jackets are a tad short too

 

[whoopee]

Looks very nice. In terms of fit, the left shoulder is a bit narrow and the sleeve pitch a bit off. Those are easy fixes.

 

[Panzeraxe II]

Looks pretty good overall. Just three comments:

1. Coat lenght - you may want to increase it a bit on the next suit - looks a tad short
2. Lapels - I'm all for wider lapels, and my tailor loves making them. Yours, in my opinion, are just a little too wide and detract attention from the rest of the suit
3. I recommend you go for a 2-button or a 2 1/2 as it better suits the cut - again, just my opinion

 

[JLibourel]

Suits like that are why I keep going back to Chan.

Curious the comments about the jacket being too short. My Chan jackets tend to be on the long side compared to my RTW size 46 or 48 Long jackets, but then I'm very long torsoed.

 

[Manton]

From the second pic it appears that the quarters cross and thus that the fronts may be too short, but I don't pick that up from the first pic so I assume it is just the camera angle.

The nit-pickiest of nitpicks: the sleeve hems are at an odd angle. They should be at right angles to where the sleeve edges finish, and more or less parallel to the shirt cuff. That's the only thing I can think to say about an otherwise very good looking and well fitting suit.

 

[chorse123]

Originally Posted by Manton

From the second pic it appears that the quarters cross and thus that the fronts may be too short . . .

Can you explain what you mean by quarters crossing? I'm not sure what that means. Thanks.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by chorse123

Can you explain what you mean by quarters crossing? I'm not sure what that means. Thanks.
Here is an exagerrated pic from a tailoring text. This would be a really bad case of crossing, but it gets the point across:

 

[chorse123]

Thanks!

 

[TIEALIGN]

I think the suit looks great...

 

[free]

Thanks to everybody for your comments/suggestions and kind compliments. I will try to answer the questions that people have.

Originally Posted by phooi

Suit looks great. What material is the suit? And if you wouldn't mind sharing, how much was it?

The material is Zegna Trofeo. The suit cost just under $1k.

Originally Posted by knittieguy

It is a very sharp suit. Definitely a power suit. It really fits you well.

Looks a bit Saville-rowish. Would you say that that is the Chan House style? Or do I have my silhouettes confused?

You said that you asked for minimal padding in the shoulders. They don't look that soft, are they roped?

I wouldn't go for the wide lapels myself, but great looking suit

The silhouette turned out like this by default, so maybe their house style is indeed Saville-rowish?
The shoulder padding is less than 1/8 of an inch thick, and I was told it's impossible to have any less. There could be some roping but it's not apparent to the touch.

Originally Posted by chorse123

Did you ask for a coat on the shorter side, or is that how Chan is cutting them? It could be the pictures, but it looks a little short to me. Not bad - certainly au courant. In fact it looks good.

I did not make any sepcial request with regard to length of the coat. For OTR suits I wear 40R coats, which are usually a bit too long for me, whereas 40S would definitely be too short. In comparison the Chan coat offers a good compromise. The camera angle of my 2nd picture may have made the coat appear short, much like what people noticed in this thread:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...highlight=chan

Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II

Looks pretty good overall. Just three comments:

1. Coat lenght - you may want to increase it a bit on the next suit - looks a tad short
2. Lapels - I'm all for wider lapels, and my tailor loves making them. Yours, in my opinion, are just a little too wide and detract attention from the rest of the suit
3. I recommend you go for a 2-button or a 2 1/2 as it better suits the cut - again, just my opinion

The lapels did turn out to be even wider than I expected, especially in the middle part. They are especially pronounced when the coat is on a hanger, but much less so when I am wearing it. For my next suit I will definitely keep your suggestions in mind.

Originally Posted by Manton

From the second pic it appears that the quarters cross and thus that the fronts may be too short, but I don't pick that up from the first pic so I assume it is just the camera angle.

The nit-pickiest of nitpicks: the sleeve hems are at an odd angle. They should be at right angles to where the sleeve edges finish, and more or less parallel to the shirt cuff. That's the only thing I can think to say about an otherwise very good looking and well fitting suit.

Thanks Manton. I think whoopee might be referring to the same issue with the sleeves. I notice it from the pictures as well.

 

[free]

Originally Posted by California Dreamer

Beautiful suit. Are the pants flat-front or pleated? The coat obscures them in the photos.

Brown shoes go particularly well with this suit, I think. The whole outfit oozes class.

Forgot to reply to Dreamer's question...
The pants are indeed flat-front. They asked me whether I tend to keep lots of stuff (big wallets etc) in my front pockets. I replied no and they recommended flat front for me, which was what I initially had in mind as well.

 

[MUNTU]

Several Comments:

1. The shoulders do not fit as well as they should and are too extended.

2. The coat is too short.

3. The lapels are too wide and the gorge is too high for the closely tapered body.

4. Given the amount of waist suppression, the button stance is too high.

5. You look as if you wear a size 9 1/2 to 11 shoe so if that is so, the trouser bottom might be better at 20" with more room in the theighs.

The coat would be better with an easier fit. A good suit should be something one could sleep in comfortably.

I would also suggest that you read Alan Flusser's "Clothes and the Man," viz, chapter on suits.

Remember: Strive for enduring style and not the fashion of the moment. In a year or so , your garment will be out of style if you blindly follow fashion. I have made-to measures that were delivered in 1990 that I am still able to wear with comfort.

Hope these comments help and my comments where intended to not rain on your parade but to share with you what I have learned.

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by MUNTU

Several Comments:

1. The shoulders do not fit as well as they should and are extended too much.

2. The coat is a tad short.

3. The lapels are too wide and the gorge is too high for the closely tapered coat.

4. Given the amount of waist suppression, the button stance is too high.

5. You look as if you wear a size 10 1/2 or 11 shoe so if that is so, the trouser bottom might be better at 20".

Would also suggest that you read Alan Flusser's "Clothes and the Man," viz, chapter on suits.

Remember: Strive for enduring style and not the fashon of the moment.

Hope these comments help.
Button stance and lapel width are all personal subjective choices. I happen to agree with much of what you say and maybe he will make some adjustments on his next order. But, if he doesn't, it's not like he's breaking any rules by having his lapel width where it is right now.

 

[Manton]

I disagree with pretty much all of it. That is a fine suit. Leaner than I personally would wear, but these crazy kids these days, they like the lean cuts.