First Black Lapel Suit - Need Suggestions for Remake

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by helo227, Feb 14, 2013.

  1. helo227

    helo227 New Member

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    Got my first Black Lapel suit but I feel like I am wearing a little boys jacket. Going to ask for a remake but wanted to get some opinions on what needs to be fixed:

    I'm 5'6" about 170lbs with a muscular build and wide shoulders. I am thinking to ask:

    • Jacket length + 1"
    • Sleeves - 0.75"
    • Jacket waist - 1"
    • Less padding in shoulders(?)


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    I don't have any issues with the pants and am happy with the length. The jacket just seems to float on my chest. Shouldn't it lay closer? I ordered with the slim notch lapels but am wondering if it would look better with the regular notch with my wide shoulders.


    Opinions welcome and appreciated!
     
  2. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Jacket

    - I think you got these must-do's right: Jacket longer, sleeves shorter. Padding of the shoulder and tightness of the waist is a matter of personal preference.

    - On top you should have a look at the fabric bunching on the back next to the armholes. Gt that cleaned up

    Trousers

    They do not hang clean in the back ... lots of pulling going on. What looks strange is the pulling between the rear pocket and the side seam. If you go for a remake I would fix those issues too.
     
  3. helo227

    helo227 New Member

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    Hmm I was so focused on the jacket I didn't even notice the pulling on the trousers. Thanks for pointing that out.
     
  4. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    I'm not familiar with that company, but if they offer tailoring credit, you may be better off taking the suit to you local tailor. The things that you'll fix with a remake can probably be fixed by your tailor. Shorten the pants a bit. Clean up the back of the jacket. Shorten the sleeves. You don't seem like a particularly statuesque guy, so taking in the waist may not be a good idea. The shape doesn't look bad, but if you want to take in the waist, your tailor can do it. The shoulders probably aren't going to look much better after a remake. The jacket length isn't terrible either.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2013
  5. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    With blacklapel, you get a full re-make free of charge.

    They can't do anything with the shoulder padding though, I asked them.
     
  6. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    What is this BlackLapel? RTW? MTM? Online-MTM?
     
  7. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Online mtm. (Standard Half-canvassed suits, full-canvass for 200$ extra. They start around 450$)
    www.blacklapel.com
     
  8. putsch80

    putsch80 New Member

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    I actually just received a suit from Black Lapel in that same color (the solid light grey, right?). What are your thoughts on the buttons? They felt kind of cheap or toyish to me. If they do a remake, you might try to get some better buttons (not sure if they offer them).
     
  9. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Realistically you can have cheap buttons always replaced by the local tailor of your choice. Just get some nice horn buttons in the same dimensions.
     
  10. putsch80

    putsch80 New Member

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    Good thought. What color would be good on a grey suit like that? Black? Grey? (I suck at color coordination on items like that).
     
  11. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    My knowledge level is improving but still relatively low so take my two cents with a grain of salt:

    Your suit is not bad for the price and the first make. I actually like how it lays in the back. I agree that the jacket may be a tad longer but not much. The most glaring adjustment to make the next time is the button position. It looks too high in the photo, and this makes your upper half look small, and draws too much attention to your mid section. I would prefer the lapel to run longer and the button to be lower. Maybe this would also allow for better shaping around the torso.

    As for the pants, I agree with the other comments. The seat is tight and pulling on the pockets, and the pants need to be shortened. These should be easy adjustment for your tailor.

    Regarding buttons, my experience is that many tailors, even ones at high price points, often go with plastic buttons if you don't ask for specific quality ones like those made of horn. I've never understood this. It seems better for the house brand and for the customer to use better ones and just pass on the cost to the customer. It's not much in the total cost of the suit. With a discount tailoring service like you are using, you will most certainly get cheap buttons if you don't ask for quality ones or provide them yourself. There are plenty of tailors of course who really emphasize the trimming quality but you can't assume they will even at high price points.

    If I were you, I would post this in the tailors thread and get professional feedback. Despos often weighs in and has an expert for eye for the type of questions you are asking.
     

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