First Bespoke Suit

[bantone]

I decided in late October I wanted to take the Bespoke plunge with a local tailor in Austin, Ross Bennett (http://thetexastailor.com/). Well the results are in and I got my suit.

I ended up getting a three piece suit with Huddersfield (English mill, owns The Rake Magazine) fabric.

The goal was to get something classic and timeless that fits. I will say that when I put this on it felt right on point to my measurements. You will also note the 4" notch lapel (most RTW suits have a 3.5" - 4" lapel). I was frankly concerned on how it would look on me but given my proportions it actually accentuates my chest and shoulders a lot without throwing things off. The pick stitching is also present which is a marking of a high quality suit.

The suit has a light canvas between the fabric so it's lightweight. I also decided to go with light shoulder padding to accentuate what I already have naturally and what I've worked for in the gym.

Waistcoat. If I could do it all over again I'd probably make some slight changes to the waistcoat such as making it 5 buttons instead of four but overall I'm satisfied with it.

This highlights more of the lining. My girlfriend helped pick this out! Royal purple with a world map view.

Some details on the pants. I opted for side tabs instead of belt loops. Frankly you don't need a belt if your suit is Bespoke or MTM because it should fit perfectly on your waist. This does.

I also got a small coin pocket on my pants as well. 2" cuffs. I'm 6'1'' and they sit nicely on the bottom of my shoes. They also add weight to the pants to drape a bit for the pleats.

Sorry for the bad pic but I'm trying to show off the single pleats here. The single pleats offer me extra room in my legs and thighs though in hindsight I didn't necessarily need them since these pants fit great. They do hide any sort of stuff I put in my pockets though and they don't make the pants or the entire silhouette of the suit any less rakish.

I certainly think I will end up making more suits with him and maybe shirts, jackets, etc.

 

[dauster]

not my cup of tea but congrats seems like you excited. Would love to see how the suit fits you though... I think that's the most important part of it.

 

[comrade]

Is that bubbling I see in the lapels, or does the suit just need a pressing?

 

[bantone]

Is that bubbling I see in the lapels, or does the suit just need a pressing?

Some pressing for sure. Not bubbling after steaming/pressing it.

 

[bantone]

I will note that I do have some muscle imbalances due to weightlifting, etc. One shoulder bigger than the other due to boxing. My right leg is also 1.5" bigger than my left.

 

[nmprisons]

A tailor or someone more experienced than me will have to explain the why, but your lapels aren't lying flat against your chest and there's something wrong with the button stance (too high, perhaps) that's causing it to pull under your chest. Your tailor should be able to fix these things.

 

[bantone]

A tailor or someone more experienced than me will have to explain the why, but your lapels aren't lying flat against your chest and there's something wrong with the button stance (too high, perhaps) that's causing it to pull under your chest. Your tailor should be able to fix these things.

You mean the lapel roll?

 

[dauster]

also pants look like there is something is going on ...what's the "bulking" or is that just because you kept your hands in your pockets? and as someone else mentioned the jacket looks a bit tight.

 

[nmprisons]

You mean the lapel roll?

No. The roll is fine. It's that (at least from the picture) it appears that the lapel is bowing out away from your chest rather than lying flat.

 

[bantone]

also pants look like there is something is going on ...what's the "bulking" or is that just because you kept your hands in your pockets? and as someone else mentioned the jacket looks a bit tight.

Not sure? Maybe it's because I had my hands in my pocket. I do have a single pleat though which offers extra room but it's fine. I have big legs

The jacket fits great to me. I can move around and don't feel restricted. I even decided to throw a few punches with it

 

[bantone]

No. The roll is fine. It's that (at least from the picture) it appears that the lapel is bowing out away from your chest rather than lying flat.

Hmm I may not be seeing it but I'll have the tailor give it a second look. I'm actually getting a new monogram so I'll see him again.

 

[dauster]

Not sure? Maybe it's because I had my hands in my pocket. I do have a single pleat though which offers extra room but it's fine. I have big legs

The jacket fits great to me. I can move around and don't feel restricted. I even decided to throw a few punches with it

for 99% of all people your suit looks great but you asked for feedback and so it undeniable that on a bespoke suit there should not be any tension in the areas I have marked and hence your jacket looks a bit tight.

 

[bantone]

for 99% of all people your suit looks great but you asked for feedback and so it undeniable that on a bespoke suit there should not be any tension in the areas I have marked and hence your jacket looks a bit tight.

Ah gotcha. I appreciate it

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I would agree with and disagree with @dauster. He's definitely right about the tight area at the buttoning point and bowing at the lapel.

Disagree with the trousers. They appear fine to me. Although you do not have a distance shot, so I can not say definitively.

I would add that I always have similar bowing out problems due to a muscular chest and shoulders but small waist. I find that as the canvas settles in the fit, drape, and overall look improves.

Incidently, congratulations on your first bespoke suit. It is always a great feeling to have that first suit made. Now on to the shoes ?!

 

[Texasmade]

I took a look at the Ross Bennett instagram linked from their website. The instagram link took me to https://mycustomclothier.com/hmcole. From that site, I clicked on the instragram link to https://www.instagram.com/hmcoleclothing/. Just looking at the pictures from this instagram account, it seems the too tight buttoning leaving an "X" across the jacket is quite common.

I couldn't find anything on the construction of their jackets from thetexastailor site.