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First Bespoke Suit (with a specific purpose)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Calder, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. Calder

    Calder Senior member

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    Hi everyone.

    I'm looking into having my first bespoke suit made. I am in need of a suit which will work well for a specific purpose, so I'm looking for advice into the what features SF would recommend, and which tailor SF would recommend.


    The purpose of the suit will be to be worn for video, TV and large conferences where video display of the stage is the norm.

    From an earlier thread, I know that I want to have a generally plain, matte fabric. Small repetitive patterns tend to cause issues with some forms of video recording software, so I want to avoid those.

    Under harsh studio lighting, colours will tend to look somewhat different than in daylight. I understand that blue fabrics and artificial lighting tend to look the most different (as artificial lighting is more yellow in most cases), but is this true for TV lighting? If not, are there particular shades to avoid?

    I'm assuming a lightweight fabric will be preferable due to the heat from studio lighting. How light, and are there any drawbacks (especially in terms of how the material hangs)?

    In a conference environment or a Q & A I might have to sit for periods of time and then stand to reply to specific questions. Would a DB Jacket be preferable to awkwardly rebuttoning or leaving the jacket loose, and would this cause the jacket to be too hot under lights?


    And lastly, anyone care to recommend a particular London Tailor who would be best for the work?
     


  2. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    I would stick with the single breasted jacket- just less likely to look odd to people, and since you'll be wearing this often, a DB would be remembered. Unless you want it to be your trademark, I would avoid that.

    Color and fabric: Why not borrow a book of fabric, or just a few swatches, and test it under studio lights? I don't think any classic color will look too weird, but if you're really concerned, go with charcoal- if it lightens, it just goes to mid gray, which is still a perfectly classic and appropriate color. As for fabric weight, talk to your tailor. They'll have a range, for sure. As for whether it's necessary, do you find yourself getting too hot in your current suits? You're right, heavier fabric generally drapes better (and is more resistant to wrinkles), but individual fabrics vary, and when you're dealing with nicer ones, you'd be well served by asking about particular cloths.

    Can't recommend a tailor in London. I hear there are a few good ones though. :D
     


  3. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    Studio lights aren't half as hot as they used to be, don't worry too much on that score, and they are supposed to replicate daylight better than ordinary domestic electric lights, so i wouldn't worry about their effect on colours either. You're right about the weird effect small scale patterns can have (the moire effect i think it's called). I'd go for a plain mid weight navy suit myself, but grey would be fine too.
     


  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I recommend a mid grey single or double breasted suit. Add a waistcoat to add a slimmer effect under the camera.

    For a good British tailor, as a starter try Cad & the Dandy full bespoke operation. For a heritage one, try Edward Sexton. The latter does a lot of clothing for media business, his cut are particular flattering for camera.

    I suggest English and Town Classic from Dugdale Bros for the fabric of the suit, plenty of good business designs, relatively low cost, and tailors extremely well. For a more expensive one try Lesser 16oz.
     


  5. Calder

    Calder Senior member

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    Thanks for the advice everyone.

    I was thinking of buying a waistcoat if I went with a single breasted jacket anyway (as well as a spare pair of suit trousers regardless of jacketing), because if I'm spending out on a bespoke suit I'd rather go the whole way on it & have the most utility and longevity. The waistcoat does definitely fall into the field of "trademark style" though, moreso than a DB jacket. But on the other hand, I have no problem with a three piece as a personal style...

    I'm certainly going to do the swatch thing under lights and on camera anyway, just to be certain. I'm definitely leaning towards charcoal or davy grey at this point.

    As for the tailoring, I've heard that Sexton towards towards much higher buttoning points on the jacket, and I've always preferred lower buttoning; I'm tall with a long ribcage, so some suits I've tried before button well above the diaphragm, which I find uncomfortable, even when the jacket is the right length. Part of the reason to look at bespoke (aside from quality and wanting to look good on camera) is to get a better fit than I can ever find otherwise.
     


  6. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    I can't remember the last time I saw anyone (working) on TV or any video broadcasting wearing a DB suit.

    When it comes to awkward lightning (spotlight), I think the biggest issue is sheen. Both for the suit and tie...but I most often notice that the usual silk ties sheen extremely much under the spotlight, so yeah, go for a SB suit in a staple, neutral color and pattern. Maybe try something other than silk ties too.
     


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