repp_fink
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2010
- Messages
- 92
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Concerning yourself with "thrift" use is a nonsense.
Or a joke that was too deadpan, I suppose. Next time, I'll use three smileys and a blinktag.
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Concerning yourself with "thrift" use is a nonsense.
I didn't read all of this, but I urge you to rethink 13 oz cloth for SE Asia. Unless you are as cold blooded as a lizard, you will boil alive in that most of the year.
Or a joke that was too deadpan, I suppose. Next time, I'll use three smileys and a blinktag.
A perception exists that a straight or "bar tack" lapel buttonhole is the mark of a higher-quality jacket. This is not necessarily true, since both straight and keyhole buttonholes can be made by machine. There's an argument to be made for requesting the straight buttonhole in order to live up to the stereotype, but you should go with your own preferences regardless.
Here speaks the voice of inexperience. 43 posts. A key hole button hole on the lapel is a great NO. It looks tacky, is mark of cheaper RTW and serves no additional function. It matters not how they are made (hand is preferable) but appearance is vital. It is not a stereotype in the derogatory manner you suggest merely a marker of good appearance. Two vents look far better than the alternatives. Working cuff buttons are to a degree unnecessary these days but nonetheless as a marker of a better suit you should have them. Concerning yourself with "thrift" use is a nonsense.
I think you're overthinking. If you're seeing a tailor to make you a bespoke suit, it's really solely his job to figure out how to fit your body. Talking about picking 'silhouettes' is a really more of a RTW discussion. If you ask your tailor for a "Milanese" silhouette (whatever that is), you'll be off to a bad start: he'll have no idea what you're talking about and you'll have no idea what you're going to get.
Personal opinion. Dubious, as both are normal sewn by machine, and either can be done with exactly the same ease. It's a stylistic choice. You realize we are talking about a vestigial element that serves absolutely no function other than occasionally holding a flower, right? It exists for purely stylistic reasons as it is. To a degree? They're completely unnecessary. They serve no purpose other than to show how expensive your suit is and to screw up any alterations you or others might want to make in the future.
What does he charge?
a reach around. make sure to tip an extra five spot. honestly...make sure to be extra specific on the bottom of the jacket. ( ie open or closed quarters.) also being ultra specific on shoulders. After that, any imperfection can be easily fixed. but a reach around would be pretty cool too.
i mean the pants details on my last comments. not the jacket. so pleats and cuffs on the pants not the jacket. if you have athletic thighs reverse pleats work. plus they're the italian style of pleat! not the fuddy duddy kind. i would not cuff or pleat on a pair of brioni trousers but i think ya need a bigger silhouette than that. mafoofan has a good point. he won't know what you're talking about. i brought something rtw to have copied coz it was the silhouette that worked on me. if i didn't i'd just ask for a 2 button navy and another med gray for the 2nd suit with whatever other deets you want. i'd go with the same style of trousers i like plus side vents and that's it. i'm actually switching tailors when i move to another country and this is my game plan.
You need to abandon the RTW frame-of-mind to achieve and appreciate good bespoke. To have a suit copied or impose a 'silhouette' you've seen in RTW makes no sense to me. It's like going to a baker and asking him to make you an Entemann's chocolate cake. If all you really want is Entemann's, get Entemann's. Too many people try bespoke and are disappointed because they were hoping for an intangible upgrade over their favorite RTW suit. It's about getting a better cake then you've come to expect, not a better Entemann's.
I didn't read all of this, but I urge you to rethink 13 oz cloth for SE Asia. Unless you are as cold blooded as a lizard, you will boil alive in that most of the year. Dugdale is good, strong stuff, though, good choice.
Or a joke that was too deadpan, I suppose. Next time, I'll use three smileys and a blinktag.
+1 on both counts. TBH you'll boil alive in anything more than a linen shirt in Singapore, assuming of course you haven't acclimatized to the hellish conditions. I also own a suit in Dugdale's new fine worsted and like it very much.
[2cents] 2 btn SB (3 roll 2 is somewhat an americanism) flapped pockets solid cloth 10 oz or so Lapel width is driven by the size of your head and shoulders. It doesn't matter what the "fashion" is. Jacket should cover your butt and avoid the present trend toward skinny/pegged trousers- when that fashion changes you won't look like a dork. Get pleats, you'll thank me later. [/2cents]
Bespoke is about comfort as much as anything. Good pants pleated or no will hang cleanly (but pleated pants are more comfrotable to sit in) 3 roll 2 is identified as an "American" look or affectation. For the most utility a straight 2 buttton would serve better.Thank you. I hate the skinny dorky stuff. I'm used to wearing baggy jeans and such (though I own thin designer ones too but something for every occasion I guess). Can you explain the pleated thing? I've owned some RTW suits that have pants with pleats and they're comfy to sit in but just don't look as clean. Is there something else I'm missing? What do you mean 3 roll 2 is an Americanism? Isn't it different than 2 button SB? I thought 3 roll 2 meant 2 visible and the third top button is rolled over with the lapel. Where as a straight out 2 button is just 2.. are you saying that the 3 roll 2 is Americanised style or Americanised terminology?
3 roll 2 is not an American thing exclusively, the Italians are crazy about it and the London "soft tailors" also do it, though not the rest of SR.
Thanks for your input. I'll put a +1 in the "for straight lapel hole and working cuff buttons". Not sure if you mean inexperience as a forum poster or sartorial knowledge but I would say your summary is exactly what fink was referring to? I think I took repp_fink's post more constructively/closer to what was intended but more opinions is good for this thread. I'm leaning toward two vents too - cheers.
Hi guys/gals,
I hate to necromance a thread but I'm making an exception in case anyone ever searches this up and wants to see how it came out. Also for people who have posted.. I had a final fitting today..
Firstly I wanted to say thank you again for everyone who posted on this thread to give advice. I now know what hacking is, how to request pockets, what is and isn't fair to expect, knowing what waist suppression is, weight of cloth, functional cuffs etc etc...
In the end, following advice in this thread, other research and consultation with the tailor Nani: I went with 8961, functional cuffs, 5 pockets, dark purple full lining, fully canvassed (horsehair), no visible labels (inside), functioning boutonniere hole and holder, the pants have no pleats no cuffs just clean.. Slightly lighter buttons.. basically a first bespoke suit that's classic but not conservative.
Oh, Nani was that cool I had two extra shirts made up in regrettably conservative material patterns and had my 3 best shirts altered to fit better
This is a fitting photo.. No pockets, not closed up... I'll up another one for fitting when I have another pic.
It would be interesting to see the final suit, hopefully you will post a full set of photos - suit being worn, trousers without the coat both front and rear views and the inside of the coat. Seems like you have had an interesting time with a good result.