Finishing sleeve cuffs on a Canali Sport Jacket

[jonny2box]

Hello,

I recently bought a blue Canali Kei jacket from a reputable retailer in Canada (Holt Renfrew) - similar to Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus in the States. It's a bit of a thickly woven texture (though not hopsack) Similar to this one, but a lighter shade of blue.

https://www.canali.com/intl/petrol-...lazer-with-flamed-effect-23275cu01635303.html

Question:
How to finish the cuffs and buttons on the sleeves?
Sleeves need shortening about 1-1.5" but the shop tailor never asked me any details about how I wanted the button arrangement (kissing / cascade ... 2, 3, or 4) ... so I assume they will generically go with 4 and it will either be cascade or kissing and non-functional button holes.
Canali website seems to always show 4 kissing button.

Any tips on how I can guide the shop tailor to make the best of this coat.

Another concern is: Is it a good idea to go with non-functioning button holes at first so that I can wear it a few times and decide if the sleeve length works well for me. Before asking another tailor to make the buttons holes functional later on?

Too nice a jacket (for me anyway) to ruin it with a botched in-house store alteration... .

Any guidance or advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
J.

 

[Tim Beasley]

Hi J,

For immediate delivery, I would definitely refer to having 4 buttons "kissing" on your sleeves.

With the concern of the working buttonholes, the styling is obviously so much better when doing this. Functional buttonholes allow you with the ability to be more casual elegant by unbuttoning the first buttonhole closest to the sleeve ending when dressing down the sports coat.

However, I would first ask to see the tailor's previous work as not all tailors are at the same level with this adjustment.

We produce ours by hand which is executed much differently compared to machine work. So it's best you see the quality of their previous work before.

Hope this helps.
Tim

 

[jonny2box]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for your reply. That's good advice to bring it to a proper tailor and ask to see their work and if they do it by machine on by hand. There's a couple reputable tailors in Montreal. I'll give that a try. Holt Renfrew was prepared to finish the cuffs with working button holes, but I'm quite sure they would have been machine sewn.
Thank you,

 

[ebauche]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for your reply. That's good advice to bring it to a proper tailor and ask to see their work and if they do it by machine on by hand. There's a couple reputable tailors in Montreal. I'll give that a try. Holt Renfrew was prepared to finish the cuffs with working button holes, but I'm quite sure they would have been machine sewn.
Thank you,

Check out HPadar on St. Catherine. I have had good luck with them even for "advanced" alterations, like narrowing a sleeve and sleeve head.