Finishing MBA, working at consulting firm--need suits, shirts, pants, etc.; have two months to trave

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by AeoNKiNG, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. AeoNKiNG

    AeoNKiNG New Member

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    Hi crew,

    I graduate from business school very soon and start a position at a consulting firm in late summer.

    I am looking to buy a bunch of suits, shirts, and pants (trousers). I have previously purchased two bespoke suits: one from Alton Lane in New York and one while I was traveling with buddies in Vietnam.

    The Alton Lane suit cost over $1,000 (two-piece) and the one in Vietnam cost $150 (and it was a three-piece). I am not a suit junky so I do not know which one is of higher quality. Given that the suit made by Alton Lane took a few months to come in, I think they're outsourcing their tailoring to a country such as Vietnam, Hong Kong, China, etc.

    My question is this: should I just attend a few of the hotel visits being made by the likes of WWChan, Nita, etc.? If so, which of those types of tailors are best and which should I visit/purchase from? Nita seems like it's priced lower than WWChan but not sure if that means it's poorer quality. I don't know of any of the other tailors that visit the US.

    Or, should I travel to Asia and find a good tailor there and buy a bunch of bespoke suits directly from him/her? This might save some money and could yield better results, too. I have a ton of frequent flyer miles and hotel points so the cost of my trip to Asia is almost nothing.

    Best,
    Mikael
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Congratulations on your graduation and job. There are plenty of good tailors in Asia, and in Hong Kong in particular. We have worked with Gordon Yao (http://www.gordonyao.com/en_index.asp) in the past, and I have heard very good things about WWChan as well. I would caution against just looking for the best deal, particularly if you do not have a lot of experience with custom clothing. As in all things, it's nearly always better to look for a bargain after you have some experience under your belt. While craftsmen in Asia can definitely be a bargain, it can often takea few trial and errors to get things right. The issue is not so much the craft as the styling.

    If you are looking for a decent MTM suit, that will fit well and not cost a fortune, and you are in or can get to NYC, I would suggest that you get fitted by @Kent Wang (www.kentwang.com) or by Mr. Ned (www.mrnednyc.com), and you'll be set.

    Good luck.

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     


  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  4. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    I want to step back and reevaluate the entire thought process behind your question. Why are you looking to go bespoke? There are primarily two reasons to go bespoke:
    1. You're a tough fit off the peg
    2. You're a clothing hobbyist

    Given that you admit to not being a junkie, we can safely eliminate 2 from the conversation. So unless you're a truly challenging fit, recommend going off the rack to build your initial rotation. As you start wearing suits every day, you'll start to notice what you like and what you don't like. When you have that truly down, then consider going bespoke if it's something you want to do. And as Fok said, once you have some experience under your belt, you can start being adventurous and look for bargains.

    Congrats on your impending graduation and new job!
     


  5. AeoNKiNG

    AeoNKiNG New Member

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    I am a clothing hobbyist for non-work clothes. I'm really into men's fashion and have a wardrobe that is much larger and trendier than that of most of my colleagues.

    However, at my (soon-to-be) firm, it's been mentioned that dressing well, especially for big client meetings, is of utmost importance. I am slightly less than average height (5'9") but have very broad shoulders and short legs. My build is very lean but athletic; low body fat but still have developed muscles. When I went to Alton Lane, they said that I should definitely use bespoke suits and shirts because they'd improve my look. I.e., they would streamline my legs and do some other alterations to elongate my appearance and make sure that I do not have a "baggy" suit.

    If bespoke is not needed, then what brands of off-the-rack suits do you recommend? I noticed a bunch of discussions about folks talking negatively about Hugo Boss suits. If I buy off the rack, which brand would be best for me? I'd like to buy at least five suits and my budget is probably no more than $1,500 per suit on average. Would I still have to get the suits altered? If so, why not just go bespoke from the start? Wouldn't that be even better and possibly cheaper?
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016


  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    So, for your frame, I would go custom, but with an American outfit, or, if you go with an Asian company, with one that is quite used to dealing with that athletic build, which is quite unusual in, for example, Hong Kong. Mr. Ned's suits start at $950, depending on clothes, and being based in NYC, they will definitely have more experience with your physique than most Asian firms.
     


  7. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Go for bespoke. Don't blow all your load at once with 5 suits. Spread the $7.5k across 3 suits. 2 navy single breasted and one gray single breasted. Should get you covered for a quarter or two before you know what suits your works environments better.
     


  8. AeoNKiNG

    AeoNKiNG New Member

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    Thanks for all of the advice and help everyone!

    So far, it looks like these are quite highly recommended/popular:

    Mr. Ned (NYC)
    Kent Wang (NYC)
    Gordon Yao (HK)
    WWChan (HK)
    Nita (HK)

    Any others that you'd recommend?
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just want to say that if you need three suits late summer, you need to move in the next week or so on commissioning your first. You don't want to commission multiple pieces at a single time until your third or fourth suit. Each iteration, a tailor improves your fit. After one, it might be at 90%, 2, 95%, etc. If you start in the next week, you'll give the tailor time to improve your fit over multiple iterations and you'll have three just before you start work.

    BnT's mtm I think is now up and running in NYC, but prices are high for mtm ($2000 starting for a suit)
     


  10. Joffrey

    Joffrey Senior member

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    Honestly, I'd start modest for your first work suits. Go to suit supply and you can get a couple of solid suits (navy, darkish shade of grey) that will serve you well for work. And for about $400-600 a piece. They're good quality and will fit well. For shirts I'd go to Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers when they're on sale. After you've settled in at work and figured a bit more your likes/dislikes (plus lurked around SF for discussions on professional dress and brands), then you may be in a position to make a more educated decision on next steps. BUt honestly I think you're not ready to deal with MTM/bespoke from travelling tailors. They're great when things go well but can be tricky when you have some minor complaints (are you willing to wait another 4 weeks just to make that .25" adjustment? Personally I'm not).
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2016


  11. AeoNKiNG

    AeoNKiNG New Member

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  12. Alpha11

    Alpha11 Senior member

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    If it were me and I was in your shoes a yr ago MBA grad. I would NOT go the Suit Supply route I been down that road and would not recommend this company to anybody especially to someone who would be judged by clients on what they wear and how it fits.

    As far as bespoke I believe what others have said already in that you would be best to wait until you define your fit and style. I went the MTM route and sat down with my SA and went over fit, fabric, and futures that best fit my body. I am 6'2 245lbs with a 45 chest 34 waist. (Ten years in the Army helps with kepping in shape)This always seems to create issues with the jacket puckering at the breast so, I do not fit OTR too well.

    I was told by a professor at Georgetown where I graduated from to stop by Brooks Brothers. Which I did not do originally and instead went with Suit Supply and Indochino for my suits. It was not the right choice for me as the suits were of cheap quality and required multiple fixes for my tailor. I know others on this Forum have had success with both companies however, the suits i got from BB have held up very well and I have received multiple compliments plus they are made in the good old USA. I went the MTM route as I stated before with the Fitzgerald model the fabric I used was from Vitale Barberis Canonico and Drago super 150 and 130 all were fully canvassed Golden Fleece however depending on your finances you can go 1818 half canvas.

    This would be my advice for you however, it is really up to you. Also please do not forget to spend good money on a nice pair of shoes! Edward Green, Crockett and Jones and at the very least Allen Edmond. I hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2016


  13. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    Being that you're trained in business, I assume you realized immediately why taking such advice from a salesman may be ill-advised. Hit up suit supply and see if one of their one thousand different models works for you. If not, report back.
     


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