Financially Challenged Fashion

[benchrat]

Howdy folks.

I'm new to (trying) to dress well.
Layed off , on unemployment last 6 months.

I was fortunate to get a job a bit above my history. I'm now in the realm of dress pants, ties, dress shoes, etc.
Previously, jeans and a decent shirt sufficed.

I'm looking for general advice. Levis don't cut it anymore, and my taste rejects Dockers.

I'm somewhat challenged by my physique. 5'11", 160lbs. Endomorph. Shorter torso, long legs.

Levis 527 = 30-31 waist, 34 inseam.

I first found out I was odd when trying to fit a holster for concealed carry pistol.
Men's holsters cut into my ribcage.

I've lately learned I'm even odder. 15" neck, 34" arms makes finding fitted shirts a challenge.

Then there's the waist. Few pants fit my bottom right. Not to mention differences in where they are produced. A Ralph Lauren made in Italy, at a 30" waist is fine. Made in China, a 32 fits well in the waist, but they don't offer enough length.

I scored some "Pazoni" Valencia model pants at Nordstrom's Rack. Better than average old man suit pants. Price decent at 75.00 a pair. Believe it's a Santorelli offshoot, but who knows? Nicest pants I've ever bought.

Here's my problem:
Off the rack shirts that fit well are few and far between. So far, far so good with Claiborne fitted. Certainly better than any standard fit. I've a couple casual wear Bugatchi's that fit better.

Pants suck.
Most of the dress pants I've tried on make it look like I'm wearing a diaper underneath.
I understand that dress pants should not fit like a tight pair of jeans.
The Pazoni's are a decent compromise. It's a single pleat each side, making a defined flat front.

I would hope that there is better out there. The Pazoni's look like I've got a streamlined diaper on. Maybe form fitting isn't important in dress clothes. I'm a neophyte, so what do I know?

Any suggestions appreciated r.e. slim fit shirts, pants.

Regards,
Mark

 

[Bob Loblaw]

My local tailor say he has to take up the rise on about 70% of the pants he sees. He used the word "diaper" when he described the fit of back of my Oxxford pants.

Off the rack pants are meant to be sold to as many men as possible so they go larger in areas creating poor fit. Some have suggested buying pants in a smaller waist, then having the waist let out which is much easier to alter than the seat.

 

[DeCaloFashion1]

Just a thought - there are many tailors that can fit a tight budget. Keeping your tailor in mind when you shop on a budget greatly expands your options!

 

[Zenny]

H&M?

 

[gnatty8]

J Crew, Banana Republic