Finally thrifted a proper country suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lucky Strike, Aug 18, 2006.

  1. Lucky Strike

    Lucky Strike Senior member

    Messages:
    3,459
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Location:
    Norway
    This was bought from David Saxby at Old Hat in London in early May - I had it altered slightly in the seat, and had the trousers shortened significantly and the sleeves just minimally, and the waistcoat lengthened a smidgen. (The sleeves are still a bit long, but as the buttonholes are working, and I can't be arsed to go the long route of having the shoulders unpicked, I'll leave them as is.) It's completely unworn, and presumably never collected by the customer. Otherwise the fit is more or less as perfect as it gets, without going MTM. At a total price of about $500 I'm not complaining. [​IMG] Now, Saxby described it as seventies bespoke, and I trust him after a few very good previous buys. The cut bears this out; it's just slightly seventies in cut - it reminds of the suits John Cleese wore on the Fawlty Towers series. It's certainly got the odd measurements and quirks that bespoke clothes have: There's one inside pocket, there's scrupulous pattern-matching all over the thing, quite extremely slanted hacking pockets, etc. etc. I'm curious about the origins, though; the only markings on it is an embroidered label in the one (!) inside pocket, that says:
    Now, I know that 12 Savile Row is where Thomas Mahon, among others, has his place of business now, but my theory is that these were provincial tailors, who took measurements and did fittings on the premises of some other tailor's or other shop at no. 12. Or what? Now, please tell me I did well. [​IMG]
     


  2. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

    Messages:
    6,324
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Basil Fawlty's suits aren't that bad looking [​IMG] - I like the material on your suit.
     


  3. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    That looks fun. I think you'll love it.

    I've been collecting quite a few (actually, quite a few too many! [​IMG] ) country jackets and suits myself. Mostly from Scotland and England, a few from Ireland. It's fun stuff. I've stopped short of the plus-four suits, though. [​IMG]
     


  4. abc123

    abc123 Senior member

    Messages:
    249
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    That is a nice looking suit!
     


  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    How I love country clothes. Any chance of a fuller pic, possibly of it being worn?
     


  6. gefinzi

    gefinzi Senior member

    Messages:
    223
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2004
    I second the call for full pics!

    I like the fabric, especially the blue windowpane. I also collect Windsor-esque suits with patterns that are bold but I hope tasteful.

    I've purchased a few 70s suits before and find I never wear them. Often they don't look floridly bad, but I just can't deal with the tight thighs, slightly flared pant bottoms, and wide lapels and pocket flaps.
     


  7. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

    Messages:
    3,246
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    Cambridge/Texas
    Mas pics.

    Looks very good- 3 piece ftw.
     


  8. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

    Messages:
    5,496
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    You did well. Please post a picture wearing the suit.
     


  9. tancredi

    tancredi Active Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Fantastic. And you all who boast of closets full of these gems, please, don't let any go unworn for too long!
     


  10. Lucky Strike

    Lucky Strike Senior member

    Messages:
    3,459
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Location:
    Norway
    Absolutely, - I'll post pctures as soon as it's cold enough to wear it, which will probably be October, or so, and even then, I don't think I'll be able to wear the waistcoat without a brutal case of sweltering. (It's very heavy thornproof tweed.)
     


  11. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Will it be, the triple tweed threat?
     


  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    Absolutely, - I'll post pctures as soon as it's cold enough to wear it, which will probably be October, or so, and even then, I don't think I'll be able to wear the waistcoat without a brutal case of sweltering. (It's very heavy thornproof tweed.)

    I just received a tweed three-piece the other night and made the mistake of trying it on. Reminded me that it's still August.
     


  13. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

    Messages:
    4,078
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.
    [​IMG]
     


  14. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Likes Received:
    102
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    12 Savile Row is the premises of Scabal, the fabric merchants. Darren Beaman once told me that they offer their premises as a courtesy for tailors to use for customer meetings/fittings. While I haven't been in contact with him for a while, Darren is still using Scabal's premises, as is Thomas Mahon. I do not know how long Scabal has been at that address, so that I do not know if the tailor mentioned in the original post would have been meeting at Scabal's. Perhaps a look at old telephone directories or the 1987 book Savile Row would be helpful.

    What I do know is that many tailoring firms allow and allowed other tailors to use their premises for meeting clients and having fittings. Such was the case with Adeney & Boutroy, whose proprietor Ron Pescod would meet clients at the premises of Davies & Son. Steven Hitchcock has a similar arrangement, I believe, at the premises of Denman & Goddard. Further, certain non-Row or non-London tailors can arrange to meet clients at a given Savile Row address which could be any set of rooms on any floor of the Row, much as small businesses may have the option of using office space on Park Avenue or the Champs-Elysees for client meetings. Tobias Tailors, which has left the Row, can meet customers at an address on the Row by appointment. The continuing conundrum Whitcomb & Shaftesbury can do the same.
     


  15. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    The continuing conundrum Whitcomb & Shaftesbury can do the same.

    They've proved rather enigmatic, haven't they? Seems like forever ago when they first came up, and I still have seen no answers.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by