1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Finally thrifted a proper country suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lucky Strike, Aug 18, 2006.

  1. Lucky Strike

    Lucky Strike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,459
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Location:
    Norway
    This was bought from David Saxby at Old Hat in London in early May - I had it altered slightly in the seat, and had the trousers shortened significantly and the sleeves just minimally, and the waistcoat lengthened a smidgen. (The sleeves are still a bit long, but as the buttonholes are working, and I can't be arsed to go the long route of having the shoulders unpicked, I'll leave them as is.) It's completely unworn, and presumably never collected by the customer. Otherwise the fit is more or less as perfect as it gets, without going MTM. At a total price of about $500 I'm not complaining. [​IMG] Now, Saxby described it as seventies bespoke, and I trust him after a few very good previous buys. The cut bears this out; it's just slightly seventies in cut - it reminds of the suits John Cleese wore on the Fawlty Towers series. It's certainly got the odd measurements and quirks that bespoke clothes have: There's one inside pocket, there's scrupulous pattern-matching all over the thing, quite extremely slanted hacking pockets, etc. etc. I'm curious about the origins, though; the only markings on it is an embroidered label in the one (!) inside pocket, that says:
    Now, I know that 12 Savile Row is where Thomas Mahon, among others, has his place of business now, but my theory is that these were provincial tailors, who took measurements and did fittings on the premises of some other tailor's or other shop at no. 12. Or what? Now, please tell me I did well. [​IMG]
     
  2. skalogre

    skalogre Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,324
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Basil Fawlty's suits aren't that bad looking [​IMG] - I like the material on your suit.
     
  3. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    That looks fun. I think you'll love it.

    I've been collecting quite a few (actually, quite a few too many! [​IMG] ) country jackets and suits myself. Mostly from Scotland and England, a few from Ireland. It's fun stuff. I've stopped short of the plus-four suits, though. [​IMG]
     
  4. abc123

    abc123 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    249
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    That is a nice looking suit!
     
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    How I love country clothes. Any chance of a fuller pic, possibly of it being worn?
     
  6. gefinzi

    gefinzi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    223
    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2004
    I second the call for full pics!

    I like the fabric, especially the blue windowpane. I also collect Windsor-esque suits with patterns that are bold but I hope tasteful.

    I've purchased a few 70s suits before and find I never wear them. Often they don't look floridly bad, but I just can't deal with the tight thighs, slightly flared pant bottoms, and wide lapels and pocket flaps.
     
  7. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,246
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    Cambridge/Texas
    Mas pics.

    Looks very good- 3 piece ftw.
     
  8. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,496
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    You did well. Please post a picture wearing the suit.
     
  9. tancredi

    tancredi Active Member

    Messages:
    31
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Fantastic. And you all who boast of closets full of these gems, please, don't let any go unworn for too long!
     
  10. Lucky Strike

    Lucky Strike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,459
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Location:
    Norway
    Absolutely, - I'll post pctures as soon as it's cold enough to wear it, which will probably be October, or so, and even then, I don't think I'll be able to wear the waistcoat without a brutal case of sweltering. (It's very heavy thornproof tweed.)
     
  11. j

    j Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,914
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Will it be, the triple tweed threat?
     
  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    Absolutely, - I'll post pctures as soon as it's cold enough to wear it, which will probably be October, or so, and even then, I don't think I'll be able to wear the waistcoat without a brutal case of sweltering. (It's very heavy thornproof tweed.)

    I just received a tweed three-piece the other night and made the mistake of trying it on. Reminded me that it's still August.
     
  13. Tomasso

    Tomasso Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,078
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.
  14. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,647
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    12 Savile Row is the premises of Scabal, the fabric merchants. Darren Beaman once told me that they offer their premises as a courtesy for tailors to use for customer meetings/fittings. While I haven't been in contact with him for a while, Darren is still using Scabal's premises, as is Thomas Mahon. I do not know how long Scabal has been at that address, so that I do not know if the tailor mentioned in the original post would have been meeting at Scabal's. Perhaps a look at old telephone directories or the 1987 book Savile Row would be helpful.

    What I do know is that many tailoring firms allow and allowed other tailors to use their premises for meeting clients and having fittings. Such was the case with Adeney & Boutroy, whose proprietor Ron Pescod would meet clients at the premises of Davies & Son. Steven Hitchcock has a similar arrangement, I believe, at the premises of Denman & Goddard. Further, certain non-Row or non-London tailors can arrange to meet clients at a given Savile Row address which could be any set of rooms on any floor of the Row, much as small businesses may have the option of using office space on Park Avenue or the Champs-Elysees for client meetings. Tobias Tailors, which has left the Row, can meet customers at an address on the Row by appointment. The continuing conundrum Whitcomb & Shaftesbury can do the same.
     
  15. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    The continuing conundrum Whitcomb & Shaftesbury can do the same.

    They've proved rather enigmatic, haven't they? Seems like forever ago when they first came up, and I still have seen no answers.
     
  16. Lucky Strike

    Lucky Strike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,459
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Location:
    Norway
    Ahhh - couldn't take the pressure this morning, and wore the jacket with jeans and a french blue shirt. The day started out grey and overcast, but it's now 18 centigrade and clammy. The suit will stay on the hanger until October, I'm afraid.

    And thanks, RJman; you support my own theory.

    It seems that Scabal has been at the same address for the last thirty years, so it's not inconceivable that they've made their rooms available for measurings and fittings for provincial tailors.
     
  17. designprofessor

    designprofessor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,483
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2006
    Location:
    tornado alley
    You going to put one of those pilots maps in silk as a pocket square?
     
  18. Lucky Strike

    Lucky Strike Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,459
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2006
    Location:
    Norway
    You going to put one of those pilots maps in silk as a pocket square?
    I'm in doubt: [​IMG] I'd have to cut it up in, say, four pieces, and have them edged. It's far too big and bulky as it is.
     
  19. Charley

    Charley Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,612
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2005
    Location:
    Senior VP - Follies and Gewgaws
    I certainly do like that fabric pattern very much.

    Is that the pattern known as a Russell plaid? If not, it must be very similar to it. But, I don't know all of the requiements for the Russell plaid pattern, either. I've only seen a few examples.
     
  20. AlanC

    AlanC Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,805
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America
    The pilot map as pocket square is cool, though.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by