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Figured out with my measurements, options seem scarcer

Sartorian

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So I finally secured a tailor's tape and measured myself a few days ago. Then, last night, I went into Hugo Boss with my lady and asked the gentleman to help me.

He brought out a couple of suits, some of which were closer in fit, but all of which were, unfortunately, the smallest the man had: 36. He told me I was more like a 34 or 35, which I had kind of figured on my own, but wanted to check nonetheless. One of the jackets was nice, and the man told me I could get the shoulders cut by a tailor--maybe about an inch total.

To help with an idea about what I'm struggling to find (even in Manhattan), my measurements are:

chest: 34-35"
waist: 28-29" (28 is too small)
Sleeve length: 31"
neck: 14 1/2

I'm also 5'9", so disproporionately tall or disproportionately skinny, depending on your glasses
biggrin.gif
.

My dad had suggested I try Brioni or some other places here in Manhattan, but from talking with the salesman last night, I'm beginning to think my main option is MTM or bespoke. So I'm just wondering if this is the proper conclusion to be reaching, or if there are certain brands I might look for first. I actually really liked the cut of the H Boss suits I looked at last night--slimmer, plain front trousers, double vents, higher armpits.

Any thoughts?

Also, the man at the store told me in terms of shirts, I should go looking at Ralph Lauren boys' clothes, b/c of my neck size. My experience in the past with boys' clothes is that the sleeve lengths are often too short, or the shoulders or armpits a little too narrow/tight.

If MTM, could anyone tell me if there is a Manhattan tailor who specializes in slimmer and younger cuts? Perhaps some HK tailors? The salesman last night gave me the name of the tailor he recommends, though I can't seem to find the piece of paper I wrote it on. I think he said he was located on 5th Ave and 77th or somewhere thereabouts.
 

Sartorian

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Thanks for the tip, Philosophe, I will look at the site.
 

JordanB

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Check out CEGO for your shirts. He's probably close in price to Hugo Boss off the rack and the shirts will fit you perfectly.

Sounds like MTM suits might also be a good idea. Any suit that you buy will probably need a lot of tailoring.
 

Jared

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Thick As Thieves normally makes only 36-40, but it might be worth asking Get Smart if he could cook something up? MTM is probably your best bet. Make sure you go with makers who are competent: I believe the majority of MTM customers are too big for RTW sizes, so they may not have as much experience with sizing things down.
 

Sartorian

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Thanks a lot for the tips, esp. about MTM.

I can't begin to tell anyone how annoying I find this: yes, I'm skinny, but only because of one of those flukes of genetics.
 

Tomasso

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Originally Posted by Sartorian
My dad had suggested I try Brioni .
It's worth a try.
 

CoryB

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Originally Posted by Sartorian
I can't begin to tell anyone how annoying I find this: yes, I'm skinny, but only because of one of those flukes of genetics.

You ain't the only one
smile.gif
. I'm very similar measurements, and it is impossible for me to find anything that fits in the manner I wish.
 

matadorpoeta

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Originally Posted by philosophe
Why don't you contact forum member Jonathan at Four in Hand (http://www.fourinhand.com/Main.asp) ? He sells suits in sz 34 and is generally an excellent resource for smaller men.
the problem is he's 5'9". anything he finds rtw with a 34" chest will be made for a guy who is 5'2". sartorian, mtm is the way to go. in a way you're lucky. when your friends and family find out you wear mtm clothing, they won't call you a dandy.
blush.gif
 

a tailor

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many rtw makers will make your size. the retail store has to order it along with their regular new season orders.
 

matadorpoeta

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Originally Posted by a tailor
many rtw makers will make your size. the retail store has to order it along with their regular new season orders.

what size is that? 34r? does that exist?
 

Sartorian

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Originally Posted by matadorpoeta
the problem is he's 5'9". anything he finds rtw with a 34" chest will be made for a guy who is 5'2".

sartorian, mtm is the way to go. in a way you're lucky. when your friends and family find out you wear mtm clothing, they won't call you a dandy.
blush.gif


This is precisely the problem I'm concerned about. If I can order a 34 suit, I'll do it, but the guy at the Hugo Boss store didn't seem to think even that was likely. He told me he gets more smaller sizes than most, but those are 36s. For point of information, when is 'normal ordering time' for the stores? When would I be looking to order, assuming they had the right size?
 

matadorpoeta

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Originally Posted by Sartorian
This is precisely the problem I'm concerned about. If I can order a 34 suit, I'll do it, but the guy at the Hugo Boss store didn't seem to think even that was likely. He told me he gets more smaller sizes than most, but those are 36s. For point of information, when is 'normal ordering time' for the stores? When would I be looking to order, assuming they had the right size?

at 5'9", i really doubt you can wear a 34 short, and i don't think there is such a thing as a 34 regular.
 

lakewolf

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I have seen occasionaly some Pal Zileri suits (full canvas) in an EUR 44 ( 34R ) also sports coats, actually now there is one glen plaid sports coat on sale for $150 ...

Here you can find suits in 44 from strellson, this is the swiss brand of Boss, the suits are fused but the cut is nice and the fabrics good for business, you find regularly them in 44 ( 34R ) very discounted on sales periods, I have bought one for my nephew NWT for $120
 

a tailor

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Originally Posted by matadorpoeta
what size is that? 34r? does that exist?

yes in a pattern only. when the retailer orders for his new season, he can order one suit in your size.
dont forget the factory makes the garments after the retailor places his order.
you must pick the size 34 or 35.
 

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