Feel

[Manton]

The focus here is always on how things look, which is understandable. But clothes are more to worn than seen, so how they feel on you (the wearer) should be at least as important.

A big part of the attraction for the stuff I like is how it feels. I like to be comfortable and not constricted. I don't like to feel nothing--I prefer the slight pinch of a high armhole and I am driven nuts if a coat does not grip my neck. But "feelable" contact beyond that I find annoying. I also don't want the clothes to be so slim that things in pockets press against my body. All of this is part of the reason why I like the drape cut.

There is another reason. I have noticed that certain suits whose fit I cannot fault, non-drape suits, feel as though they are slipping off me, backwards. I always want to tug them up and forward even though, when I look in the mirror, I have to admit that they fit fine. Certain cutting idiosyncracies of the drape coat--whether cut in London, NY or Naples--always make it feel, on me, to be resting exaclty the way it should.

This is part of why I get bespoke. I would guess it's part of the reason everyone who does gets bespoke. Yet we don't seem to appreciate it here enough. I would venture that SF opinion is that my recent Mina suit looks better than Solito or A&S but the latter feel better, which is hugely important.

 

[edmorel]

thanks.

 

[TheFoo]

Is it possible your non-drape coats weren't fit properly?

I agree that feel and comfort are under-emphasized on the forum. But is that surprising? The truth is, most members just want the slimmest suit they can get away with--little attention is paid to the way something actually fits. I'm sick of hearing "Are those armholes high enough?" Also, by nature of the medium, forum judgments depend on static photos, where a draped suit is arguably at the most disadvantage. Elegance in motion is hard, if not impossible, to display on the forum, and it is arguably the most important determinant of style there is.

 

[emptym]

I'm reminded of Deion Sanders' famous qt: “If you look good, you feel good. If you feel good, you play good. And if you play good, they pay good.”

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by edmorel

thanks.

Mina's coat feels like it is slipping off. Collar also, I think, does not stick like it should.

Oh, and thanks for being a gratiuitous dick.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Not sure it's quite the same as what you're talking about, but my favorite sport jacket is a Corneliani that has the softest shoulder/chest padding of any of my jackets. Has really high armholes too. Not as high as my Despos, but pretty close.

Thing is that the padding makes the jacket feel like wearing a sweater. I like it more than some of the more built up stuff I have even though I suspect that with my less-than greek-frame I might benefit looks-wise from more structure.

Don't really care, I like the way it feels to wear it.

 

[Master-Classter]

There's a youtube video interview of Kabbaz where he explains how a shirt should almost feel invisible, fitted without constriction. I like the way he describes it.

As for some of your other points about why you like bespoke, i would imagine there are just as many people on the other side who prefer a rather structured even restrictive fit. I know that I have some suits/SC's like Armani that are almost like a cardigan in feel and then some stuff that's Tom Ford and it's more like a suit of armour. I like both styles and use them for different purposes.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Is it possible your non-drape coats weren't fit properly?
Pretty sure they are fine in that regard, though increasingly I think the NSM suit needs a tweak at the collar. However, even if that were done, it would not solve the problem of it feeling like it's sliding off.

As to the rest, I agree. So many of the critiques here focus on what a suit looks like in one static, mug shot pose, as if that were the end-all, be-all. This stuff is supposed to be worn, everyone.

 

[Trompe le Monde]

Originally Posted by emptym

I'm reminded of Deion Sanders' famous qt:

"If you look good, you feel good, If you feel good, you play good, If you play good, they pay good."

a true warrior-poet

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by kermitkebab

I believe what you are describing is the difference between "look" and "fit". Look is good. But "fit" actually looks better. "Drape" refers primarily to the way the cloth hangs and better quality cloth will drape very nicely. That's why fabric quality is so important. That's why cheap Asian made-to-measure suits are often not satisfactory - the cloth is cheap. Now "fit" involves tailoring. High armholes give greater comfort and flexibility, except if you are quite overweight and like loose fitting clothes. A jacket collar should always fit exactly around your neck without having to adjust it. Although this can be corrected by a good tailor.

No, he means "drape" in terms of how a jacket can be cut with excess cloth in certain areas, not how different cloths drape.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by kermitkebab

I believe what you are describing is the difference between "look" and "fit."
No I'm not. I'm talking about the way that two coats, cut in different styles, can both fit but feel much different.

Too little attention is paid to the latter here even though it is of paramount importance to the wearer.

Foo is right that SF worships slimnes, cinched waists, and armholes like nozzles. The viewing audience doesn't really care if you feel straight-jacketed so long as the photo shows those characteristics.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Manton, what tailors in NY have cut a drape jacket for you?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Manton, what tailors in NY have cut a drape jacket for you?

Raphael. Flusser. The former is a lot better than the latter but I give the latter credit for doing a decent job. I stayed with him for a long time, until the prices started to match, and then exceed, bench bespoke in the city.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by kermitkebab

Okay, I see. But that is not "drape". That only means that the suit need to be altered by a good tailor. Of course, if you have paid to have it MTM then you have reason to complain loudly.

Ugh. No. Do a search. Seriously.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by Manton

Raphael. Flusser. The former is a lot better than the latter but I give the latter credit for doing a decent job. I stayed with him for a long time, until the prices started to match, and then exceed, bench bespoke in the city.

Ah, I see. I am curious to see what Mina does with the collar on your SC. Are you concerned that if the back behind the collar is extended it will produce a roll? Or do you think the adjustment needed is different all together?