Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nekostyle, Dec 29, 2012.
Aside from the wrinkling in the tricep area, the suit looks fine. But yes, get better shoes!
Who made it?
Jacket is too short.
Shoulders are too wide.
Sleeve pitch is wrong.
Front quarters are too closed
Back is a complete mess. Too loose across shoulders, and too tight at waist.
Trouser fit ls bad. They wrinkle all the way down, and have no drape.
Length of trouser is way too long.
Need cuffs on trousers.
Lastly, BURN THOSE SHOES
They didn't fit you properly. Everything that needs adjusting has been mentioned. Balance is the most essential to get right and this has a short front/long back balance. Did you have a basted fitting or try it on finished?
Appreciate the energetic discussion here. I am learning a whole bunch. Yes there was a basted fitting but it did seem a little perfunctory.
Conclusions so far:
- Shorten trousers
- Burn shoes
- Fix RH jacket cuff button spacing (perhaps difficult to see on photo, but one button is slightly off creating wrinkling)
Two follow up areas, if I may.
1 - How simple is it to have the tailor adjust the quarters to give the jacket a slightly more "X" shape rather than the current "Y"? If this is a tough adjustment I'm tempted to leave as is given other work needed (right now fit is more important than stylistic aspects).
2 - Regarding the jacket and especially sleeve/shoulders area, seems there is divergence of opinion as to whether it is a fundamental balance issue, or localized shoulder width/sleeve pitch problems. Do the additional photos below help resolve this?
Have reshot with a slightly more relaxed posture - pretending I'm half way through a presentation or something.
(Hoping that these shoes will escape calls for incineration, at least while the Oxfords are on the way.)
The trousers don't look long in the new pics, and the coat does look better, though I still think the balance is a bit off (see how the front of the jacket, below the button, flares outward in the side views?). You also seem to have forward shoulders, they're pushing against the front of the jacket and leave some unsupported cloth on the sleeve cap at the back of the shoulder, which makes the jacket's shoulders look too wide when they really aren't...
You sound like you've been around the forum enough to know this, but I thought I'd reaffirm it - what you've got there (minus the first pic shoes) will look better than 95%+ of men, depending on your line of work, socioeconomic surroundings, etc. There are things that can be fixed, but some of the balance issues may be more than you want to get into, except to note them for your next suit.
Merely passable, your average Joe suit if you are happy with that.
I agree with this. There are definitely sleeve issues, but overall good length and nice fit.
+1, but as mentioned above, these points will help you refine the fit of what's already a pretty decent suit. It's far from perfect or even 'great', but it's actually pretty decent and for what it's worth, miles ahead of the average Joe
Thanks again all. If this suit can put me somewhere between the 50th and 95th percentiles of Average Joes, then not bad at all (it was very reasonably priced at a local tailor in Kowloon HK.)
Will see what we can do about the tricep area with a slight sleeve rotation.
Any thoughts on:
Opening up the quarters slightly (not strictly speaking a fit issue I know, but I would like it to look a little less boxy if possible). Given the tailor's perhaps middling level of expertise, would this be more trouble than it is worth? In otherwords, can he mess something else up by trying to do this?
Shoulder adjustment - as both rounds of photos show, my right shoulder droops (I am a lefty). Is it wise/lawful to have the right shoulder built up a little to compensate, helping the line of the back seam to sit properly vertical?
Poloboy - I would appreciate if you could comment further on the "drape" issue with the pants that you raised. I understand from other forum posts that it can be harder to achieve a decent drape with non-pleated pants such as mine, but not impossible. Can you suggest (for this, or perhaps the next suit) what kind of adjustments or guidance to the tailor would improve this? Relative to my last pair of pants, these are cut narrower in the thigh area - perhaps that is part of the problem?
To get a proper drape on trousers:
Wear your trousers at your natural waist--requires a higher rise
Your trousers should be wide enough to hang straight down gracefully
Do not taper your trouser legs as much-- causes the twisting
Because your leg opening os smaller, you need to shorten them--no break, just kissing the top of shoe
Cuff the trouser for added weight to help them drape correctly
The slim cut pant will soon disappear, but a fuller cut trouser done correctly will always be in style
Understand the difference between what is currently fashionable, and what is stylish
Good luck on your next purchase
Thank you Poloboy - I think I follow you. Will make those adjustments for next time. (probably on an extra pair of pants for this suit).
Any takers on the other queries - adjusting quarters, and building up shoulder to compensate for droop?
The shoulders are a tad wide, but they're not terrible. The big issue is that the pants are too long. Sleeves could be a bit shorter. I also prefer open quarters and pocket flaps (it looks like I see the shape of flaps. Are they tucked in?), but those are personal preferences. Fix the pants and you'll have a MUCH better fit than the majority of everyday guys. Unless you're a true hobbyist, that's all that you need.
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