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Fall journey into menswear, advice most welcome.

hamnjam

Active Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
33
Reaction score
30
Greetings and thanks for taking the time to read through this post. Your advice, thoughts, and opinions would be most welcome.

I’ve recently traded in my scrubs for professional attire as I now work seeing patients in clinics. Square toed dress shoes, loose fitting dress pants, and overly patterned dress shirts from my student days over a decade ago were replaced with slim fit chinos, oxford button down shirts, and loafers.

As fall and winter approaches, the goal would be to add some texture to the wardrobe. After seeing tweed / herringbone sports coats, I’m beginning to see what direction I would like to go to.

I’m looking for your feedback to work out the details. Questions are in italics and any advice that is not specifically asked are appreciated. TLDR at the bottom.

The Jackets
Here are two pictures of the type of jackets I would be looking for. I’m thinking between 1-2 for the fall. These are last year’s tweeds from Spier and Mackay (I’m partial to them as I own a jacket from them already and I live in Canada).
6DbpA0woN2HjkBlHnof8Dj58K8SGtgtl091kupjlSIVUNEdgRmt5zvgJGmOT7RBUeO7H6rmfTOH5trPHmNKRZzkZJjCU2N7iymU5_X9oTiFA0jyW0EKVcMoMXLhym5jc_FINtwme
NWoWWUFD6Y9bLukLwvEm3BWHe_vNqcyTJqfZTiZaqwIB3amzhP3fPoRLdjf4K0lV-QibIxyU6JSEy6lDFJc5jctvH_mk2PbgV6nZ7pOU0t2U8RVbVe9jGlPQRSfXz01qJazxqTnF

I’m thinking grey and possibly another one in brown as I think they would end up being quite versatile and classic. Maybe green should be considered as well.

Thoughts on the choice of colour or other brands to check out?

The Fit
I have linen sports coats from S&M in 38S as I was looking for the length to be a bit shorter to reflect a modern fit. For the fall, I’m thinking of the 38 in regular length instead.

Here’s a picture of me in a S&M jacket in 38S contemporary fit.
J73Fz7HIL5rH77N47fG0EPRhEn3C4Qu59RWkDfMfzfa-if6H2TGASEn5U5Xeyx7Nr3SKJ67Y1iBnf17PDHUBAyevXYB56XOB2NIvMV4uJT1sr-ySKaCdKOabm4coD9_SNT-VIzPr
3U90meGHOL8BJGUyO-uLekBYJHR9Rsrawg5FQkjBPZ4gpIg68ArVzbvS3ZI_mUNpOwHkqvXjmH_OqdUAXgzZFc7cNLM15M5klrZusZ5zAiVGkDc3hSjLNJfPCc3JsHjZPkH12w8p

If I go for the 38R, I know non-functional button sleeves are simple to tailor but what about tailoring the length if it ends up being too long? Also, I think the slim fit would not be a good idea but would like some insight into this.


The Shoes
After the jackets, I am also excited about adding two pairs of shoes for this project. The criteria: medium to dark brown, rubber soles (rains a lot here), goodyear welted. As these will be paired with flannel trousers, chinos, denim, a casual last that is not too round or not too pointed. I’m thinking plain toed derbies/bluchers or longwings/shortwings brogues in pebbled leather or chromexcel. Although I am drawn to shell cordovan, the cost doesn't make sense currently.

Here is a Grant Stone PTB. I really like the shape and leather on these. Have a loafer from GS, so I would be pretty safe for sizing.
96AIsBUVOSaSixCYl_CWgHUxPrjvbt1bduCANgk8B78LDPnoF5AbQWn8CE8GjLMfHTiID-VKy29dnloRSmmny5r6R5fjtaWBTG4O3pAs37EDiS7MjNFz4autEp5YjyX8AoD1KdPJ

One small detail I’m unsure about are the brass eyelets. I’m wondering if this would clash with flannel or smarter pants in general. Am I fretting over an unimportant detail?

Here are pictures of pebbled longwings. One from Meermin and one from TLB Mallorca.
jXy39CMgADgrSVsgfiQuWoZEjiO3o6r_kUhBHwKvqGZV-gfRhEXkeWkRWjtYMhrZdVwHud28wdrIpKt-pNPc_49Au_M7VTDLPgqLdSrzp4xnL16jtw_OGjVhjgCMJB_p1PJK98EW
fVHz6GHpQq_7WTRgZuB7FG5zf6ovbsqA19PZ_UdUpLNBxkWydKR7Giu6NJVgdbH7iuV50SJJ2WdepiqizkFkRfUbcI8KjuUaFfT7mt8Lw5KH-es4fLAMbKxe4W3cX6EE1-Jx4PGA


The longwing pattern with pebble leather may seem too “chunky” to wear with chinos or even too busy. Is this too much?


The Pants
Flannel
I really like the look of flannel trousers, and I am looking to add two pairs this year. As someone who is starting out, the goal would be able to interchange each pair with each jacket and this where I’m stuck. I’ve read a few guides and different shades of grey seems to be the suggestion. Mixing different shades of grey seem a bit too advanced for me as I would like to add a grey tweed jacket.

It seems simple to have one item in light grey and the other item in charcoal for contrast but what would you do if one item was a mid-grey?

Am I missing out on any colour for pants that is as versatile as grey trousers?


Now to the style/fit. As much as I think those high rise side tab flannel trousers look great, I’m worried they would be a bit too much out of my comfort zone to go for just yet.

8cZMVMu1kbRu-bI9G2qgdm3OfFxjvxekA8U_1jVSmLXvaJlrBrSdztvT1fPRqnDcjH99WNcCDlQNQBbrHBxLvqcqcMRA8q6rokiufEtv03zRY40-ZGf3H_50x4_EuG8y2Ka6gi5x
UUKHoOr5Z2zzRno_xDN9PSttDWUlTb7cNLgKGeuXEJDclPEJF8DiWD5DaLcPzRgx46XNR8FDkuSDx8R3IXzPVhAXeSdF-NYwZj-ATLgqYq6mYK5FQi39E-nepxlEHWNcsPgrKPBC


Would these S&M examples with regular belt loops be the safer choice? Should I just take the chance on high rise?

This does seem like a personal choice but would you advise cuffing these flannel trousers?


Denim
I currently own two pairs of denim - a dark wash and a black pair. It is a bit confusing thinking of wearing jeans with sport coats.

There is something different about the jeans that are worn with blazers but I can’t quite put my finger on it. Is there a specific style of denim to paired with blazers?

I am open to the idea of purchasing a pair of denim specifically to pair with these shoes and jackets. Any suggestions?


Chinos
There are a few new slim fit chinos I acquired this year ranging from navy, burgundy, black, stone, etc. I would like to be able to use these as well.

Any issues with mixing and matching the above with slim fit chinos?


I think this is it for now. Eventually I’ll have questions about shirts, sweaters/cardigans/vests/overcoats, and possibly ties later.

TL;DR version
I am a menswear novice and would like to start building out a fall wardrobe. The inspiration comes from how much I like the look of textured sports coats in a relaxed style. I really like the look of a grey herringbone tweed sports coat paired with pants in the form of flannel and denim on top of causal dress shoes.

  1. For possibly a second jacket, brown or another colour?
  2. For jacket length: how much can a tailor shorten the length?
  3. For shoes: would a PTB in chromexcel (Grant Stone Country Derby in Dark Walnut) and pebbled grained longwings (Meermin or TLB Mallorca) in medium to dark brown suffice? I’m specifically wondering about the brass eyelets or the pebble grain in a longwings.
  4. For trousers: what colours in flannel will mix and match for the above two jackets? How do you pair grey flannel trousers with a grey sports coat?
  5. For trousers: high rise trousers with side tabs have a certain appeal to me. Is this style easy to get into or should I stick to the medium rise with belt loop style? Also, slim or contemporary fit?
  6. For denim: honestly, I’m so confused how to add denim to this capsule wardrobe. Help.
  7. For chinos: would slim fit chinos work with these shoes and jackets that I have in mind?
  8. Any other thoughts, opinions, or suggestions?
  9. Lastly, I will say that writing this in the height summer made me feel a bit warmer.
 

Stylewords

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2020
Messages
635
Reaction score
992
Greetings and thanks for taking the time to read through this post. Your advice, thoughts, and opinions would be most welcome.

I’ve recently traded in my scrubs for professional attire as I now work seeing patients in clinics. Square toed dress shoes, loose fitting dress pants, and overly patterned dress shirts from my student days over a decade ago were replaced with slim fit chinos, oxford button down shirts, and loafers.

As fall and winter approaches, the goal would be to add some texture to the wardrobe. After seeing tweed / herringbone sports coats, I’m beginning to see what direction I would like to go to.

I’m looking for your feedback to work out the details. Questions are in italics and any advice that is not specifically asked are appreciated. TLDR at the bottom.

The Jackets
Here are two pictures of the type of jackets I would be looking for. I’m thinking between 1-2 for the fall. These are last year’s tweeds from Spier and Mackay (I’m partial to them as I own a jacket from them already and I live in Canada).
6DbpA0woN2HjkBlHnof8Dj58K8SGtgtl091kupjlSIVUNEdgRmt5zvgJGmOT7RBUeO7H6rmfTOH5trPHmNKRZzkZJjCU2N7iymU5_X9oTiFA0jyW0EKVcMoMXLhym5jc_FINtwme
NWoWWUFD6Y9bLukLwvEm3BWHe_vNqcyTJqfZTiZaqwIB3amzhP3fPoRLdjf4K0lV-QibIxyU6JSEy6lDFJc5jctvH_mk2PbgV6nZ7pOU0t2U8RVbVe9jGlPQRSfXz01qJazxqTnF

I’m thinking grey and possibly another one in brown as I think they would end up being quite versatile and classic. Maybe green should be considered as well.

Thoughts on the choice of colour or other brands to check out?

The Fit
I have linen sports coats from S&M in 38S as I was looking for the length to be a bit shorter to reflect a modern fit. For the fall, I’m thinking of the 38 in regular length instead.

Here’s a picture of me in a S&M jacket in 38S contemporary fit.
J73Fz7HIL5rH77N47fG0EPRhEn3C4Qu59RWkDfMfzfa-if6H2TGASEn5U5Xeyx7Nr3SKJ67Y1iBnf17PDHUBAyevXYB56XOB2NIvMV4uJT1sr-ySKaCdKOabm4coD9_SNT-VIzPr
3U90meGHOL8BJGUyO-uLekBYJHR9Rsrawg5FQkjBPZ4gpIg68ArVzbvS3ZI_mUNpOwHkqvXjmH_OqdUAXgzZFc7cNLM15M5klrZusZ5zAiVGkDc3hSjLNJfPCc3JsHjZPkH12w8p

If I go for the 38R, I know non-functional button sleeves are simple to tailor but what about tailoring the length if it ends up being too long? Also, I think the slim fit would not be a good idea but would like some insight into this.


The Shoes
After the jackets, I am also excited about adding two pairs of shoes for this project. The criteria: medium to dark brown, rubber soles (rains a lot here), goodyear welted. As these will be paired with flannel trousers, chinos, denim, a casual last that is not too round or not too pointed. I’m thinking plain toed derbies/bluchers or longwings/shortwings brogues in pebbled leather or chromexcel. Although I am drawn to shell cordovan, the cost doesn't make sense currently.

Here is a Grant Stone PTB. I really like the shape and leather on these. Have a loafer from GS, so I would be pretty safe for sizing.
96AIsBUVOSaSixCYl_CWgHUxPrjvbt1bduCANgk8B78LDPnoF5AbQWn8CE8GjLMfHTiID-VKy29dnloRSmmny5r6R5fjtaWBTG4O3pAs37EDiS7MjNFz4autEp5YjyX8AoD1KdPJ

One small detail I’m unsure about are the brass eyelets. I’m wondering if this would clash with flannel or smarter pants in general. Am I fretting over an unimportant detail?

Here are pictures of pebbled longwings. One from Meermin and one from TLB Mallorca.
jXy39CMgADgrSVsgfiQuWoZEjiO3o6r_kUhBHwKvqGZV-gfRhEXkeWkRWjtYMhrZdVwHud28wdrIpKt-pNPc_49Au_M7VTDLPgqLdSrzp4xnL16jtw_OGjVhjgCMJB_p1PJK98EW
fVHz6GHpQq_7WTRgZuB7FG5zf6ovbsqA19PZ_UdUpLNBxkWydKR7Giu6NJVgdbH7iuV50SJJ2WdepiqizkFkRfUbcI8KjuUaFfT7mt8Lw5KH-es4fLAMbKxe4W3cX6EE1-Jx4PGA


The longwing pattern with pebble leather may seem too “chunky” to wear with chinos or even too busy. Is this too much?


The Pants
Flannel
I really like the look of flannel trousers, and I am looking to add two pairs this year. As someone who is starting out, the goal would be able to interchange each pair with each jacket and this where I’m stuck. I’ve read a few guides and different shades of grey seems to be the suggestion. Mixing different shades of grey seem a bit too advanced for me as I would like to add a grey tweed jacket.

It seems simple to have one item in light grey and the other item in charcoal for contrast but what would you do if one item was a mid-grey?

Am I missing out on any colour for pants that is as versatile as grey trousers?


Now to the style/fit. As much as I think those high rise side tab flannel trousers look great, I’m worried they would be a bit too much out of my comfort zone to go for just yet.

8cZMVMu1kbRu-bI9G2qgdm3OfFxjvxekA8U_1jVSmLXvaJlrBrSdztvT1fPRqnDcjH99WNcCDlQNQBbrHBxLvqcqcMRA8q6rokiufEtv03zRY40-ZGf3H_50x4_EuG8y2Ka6gi5x
UUKHoOr5Z2zzRno_xDN9PSttDWUlTb7cNLgKGeuXEJDclPEJF8DiWD5DaLcPzRgx46XNR8FDkuSDx8R3IXzPVhAXeSdF-NYwZj-ATLgqYq6mYK5FQi39E-nepxlEHWNcsPgrKPBC


Would these S&M examples with regular belt loops be the safer choice? Should I just take the chance on high rise?

This does seem like a personal choice but would you advise cuffing these flannel trousers?


Denim
I currently own two pairs of denim - a dark wash and a black pair. It is a bit confusing thinking of wearing jeans with sport coats.

There is something different about the jeans that are worn with blazers but I can’t quite put my finger on it. Is there a specific style of denim to paired with blazers?

I am open to the idea of purchasing a pair of denim specifically to pair with these shoes and jackets. Any suggestions?


Chinos
There are a few new slim fit chinos I acquired this year ranging from navy, burgundy, black, stone, etc. I would like to be able to use these as well.

Any issues with mixing and matching the above with slim fit chinos?


I think this is it for now. Eventually I’ll have questions about shirts, sweaters/cardigans/vests/overcoats, and possibly ties later.

TL;DR version
I am a menswear novice and would like to start building out a fall wardrobe. The inspiration comes from how much I like the look of textured sports coats in a relaxed style. I really like the look of a grey herringbone tweed sports coat paired with pants in the form of flannel and denim on top of causal dress shoes.

  1. For possibly a second jacket, brown or another colour?
  2. For jacket length: how much can a tailor shorten the length?
  3. For shoes: would a PTB in chromexcel (Grant Stone Country Derby in Dark Walnut) and pebbled grained longwings (Meermin or TLB Mallorca) in medium to dark brown suffice? I’m specifically wondering about the brass eyelets or the pebble grain in a longwings.
  4. For trousers: what colours in flannel will mix and match for the above two jackets? How do you pair grey flannel trousers with a grey sports coat?
  5. For trousers: high rise trousers with side tabs have a certain appeal to me. Is this style easy to get into or should I stick to the medium rise with belt loop style? Also, slim or contemporary fit?
  6. For denim: honestly, I’m so confused how to add denim to this capsule wardrobe. Help.
  7. For chinos: would slim fit chinos work with these shoes and jackets that I have in mind?
  8. Any other thoughts, opinions, or suggestions?
  9. Lastly, I will say that writing this in the height summer made me feel a bit warmer.
You've clearly done your research and are thinking about this systematically. Let me offer some random thoughts to start off:

1. Most people here argue against a grey jacket as first choice and will suggest you choose navy and brown sports coats, which both match with grey trousers. If you want a grey herringbone tweed, then go for it although you may have to go navy trousers, which for some reason people here don't like. The grey will also go well with jeans.
2. Many here overdo the "your jacket is too short" criticism, but your jacket in the photo is too short, even if you want a more modern style. If you choose a regular, it will only be about 1 inch longer, which will be fine. ( tailors can shorten the length but it is dangerous and can throw off the proportions).
5. High-rise trousers go very well with sports coats. The spier high rise is not actually that high-rise anyway.
6. Normal recommendation is dark denim, perhaps with smaller back pockets with no fancy stitching and a slightly higher rise.
7. Slim fit chinos can work, but be careful they are not too slim if you are wearing a tweed jacket. The proportions can look off as you can look like an ice lolly with a bigger upper half and skinny little legs sticking out of the bottom.

Good luck.
 

Res

Active Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2020
Messages
41
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15
Think of it more as building a wardrobe and having certain pieces for the current season. Don't build out a wardrobe for each season (I see people do that often) as that can get costly. View it as 2 seasons, spring/summer and fall/winter.

No need to stick to brown and darks for clothes and shoes. In the spring/summer use bright colors and fall/winter use anything that isn't vibrant.

Stick with turtle necks, v-necks, crew neck sweaters, cardigans, button down shirts.

1. Blue, Green, Burgundy, Plaid
3. Loafers, monks, oxfords, a boot here or two
5. Flannel/wool, chinos, heavy cottons, corduroys. Also, consider tight-fitting denim of very high quality.
7. What chinos brands are you looking at?
8. I would invest in quality wear, not Grantstone or S&M, but that's just me.
 

JackEst3

Active Member
Joined
May 30, 2020
Messages
25
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20
1. Brown is wuite versatile and I would recommend something blue or navy as well. That pairs very nicely with grey trousers.

2. Jacket length is difficult to shorten, because it can be expensive and throw off the proportions of the jacket (pockets, buttoning point). Have you tried on the S&M regular length? Considering the current jacket is noticably short, I think the regular would be fine if you get the sleeves adjusted.

3. I haven't heard of brass eyelets making a shoe less wearable, so I wouldn't worry.

4. Grey flannel with a grey jacket usually wouldn't work (maybe very dark charcoal trousers with a lighter grey jacket). I agree that a grey herringbone jacket is versatile with any other trousers: navy, tan, khaki, dark jeans, etc.

5. High rise with side tabs is not common in mainstream fashion, but it's a small enough detail that it doesn't really matter, particularly if worn under a jacket.

6. Denim with a sport coat can be done, although it's often done badly. Basically, the jeans should be dark wash, minimal distressing, not skinny nor baggy and the jacket should be more textured/casual as well (the tweeds you've looked at would be good). However, if you have enough other trousers for work, you can leave the jeans for casual wear with no problems.

7. Slim fit can mean different things in different brands. If it's a more moderate cut, I'd say it's fine, if it works for your body type and the jacket is fitted as well.
 

hamnjam

Active Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
33
Reaction score
30
You've clearly done your research and are thinking about this systematically. Let me offer some random thoughts to start off

1. Most people here argue against a grey jacket as first choice and will suggest you choose navy and brown sports coats, which both match with grey trousers. If you want a grey herringbone tweed, then go for it although you may have to go navy trousers, which for some reason people here don't like. The grey will also go well with jeans.
2. Many here overdo the "your jacket is too short" criticism, but your jacket in the photo is too short, even if you want a more modern style. If you choose a regular, it will only be about 1 inch longer, which will be fine. ( tailors can shorten the length but it is dangerous and can throw off the proportions).
5. High-rise trousers go very well with sports coats. The spier high rise is not actually that high-rise anyway.
6. Normal recommendation is dark denim, perhaps with smaller back pockets with no fancy stitching and a slightly higher rise.
7. Slim fit chinos can work, but be careful they are not too slim if you are wearing a tweed jacket. The proportions can look off as you can look like an ice lolly with a bigger upper half and skinny little legs sticking out of the bottom.

Good luck.

Thanks! Points I haven't thought of before.

1. Navy trousers will go with the jacket colours (grey, brown, or maybe green) I have in mind. I've read before about how versatile navy chinos are, any insight on why navy trousers have some unpopularity here?
2. I suspected the same about lengthening / shortening jackets. Will look into regular length
5. Haven't worn anything high rise anything before but good to hear the SM aren't that extreme
6. Higher rise is what I was missing regarding denim in menswear.
7. I may post in the future with my chinos and said jacket to check proportions.

Think of it more as building a wardrobe and having certain pieces for the current season. Don't build out a wardrobe for each season (I see people do that often) as that can get costly. View it as 2 seasons, spring/summer and fall/winter.

No need to stick to brown and darks for clothes and shoes. In the spring/summer use bright colors and fall/winter use anything that isn't vibrant.

Stick with turtle necks, v-necks, crew neck sweaters, cardigans, button down shirts.

1. Blue, Green, Burgundy, Plaid
3. Loafers, monks, oxfords, a boot here or two
5. Flannel/wool, chinos, heavy cottons, corduroys. Also, consider tight-fitting denim of very high quality.
7. What chinos brands are you looking at?
8. I would invest in quality wear, not Grantstone or S&M, but that's just me.

Thanks!

What I'm listing here will work for both fall/winter other than adding a layer or two. Other than the persistent rain, our winters are quite mild here.
1. blue and green appeal to me but I haven't seen it as a tweed colour before. Is it common to use this colour during fall/winter?
7. Don't have any brands in mind, I already have pairs from Banana Republic which I'm sure doesn't get much fanfare here and to an extent I agree. Bought a few pairs heavily discounted when I was in a rush but was disappointed with them even at the sale price. Any brands you have in mind?
8. I also believe in quality before quantity now as until recently I had a wardrobe mostly full of fast fashion clothes I didn't wear but I do admit I'm a bit surprised at this comment. May I some suggestions on where you should start with for quality wear?

1. Brown is wuite versatile and I would recommend something blue or navy as well. That pairs very nicely with grey trousers.

2. Jacket length is difficult to shorten, because it can be expensive and throw off the proportions of the jacket (pockets, buttoning point). Have you tried on the S&M regular length? Considering the current jacket is noticably short, I think the regular would be fine if you get the sleeves adjusted.

3. I haven't heard of brass eyelets making a shoe less wearable, so I wouldn't worry.

4. Grey flannel with a grey jacket usually wouldn't work (maybe very dark charcoal trousers with a lighter grey jacket). I agree that a grey herringbone jacket is versatile with any other trousers: navy, tan, khaki, dark jeans, etc.

5. High rise with side tabs is not common in mainstream fashion, but it's a small enough detail that it doesn't really matter, particularly if worn under a jacket.

6. Denim with a sport coat can be done, although it's often done badly. Basically, the jeans should be dark wash, minimal distressing, not skinny nor baggy and the jacket should be more textured/casual as well (the tweeds you've looked at would be good). However, if you have enough other trousers for work, you can leave the jeans for casual wear with no problems.

7. Slim fit can mean different things in different brands. If it's a more moderate cut, I'd say it's fine, if it works for your body type and the jacket is fitted as well.

Thanks!

1. I really like the look of brown as well. I haven't seen Navy herringbone before but admittedly I haven't gone looking.
2. haven't tried on REG but am less concerned about the 1.4inch difference in length as it looks like my jackets should be much longer
3. Thanks, I thought I was mulling over the wrong detail
4. I'm starting to think brown/green/navy jacket might be easier to start out as just having different shades of grey flannel makes it easier to start out with.
5. May just go for 1 pair of the high rise with tabs and see how it works out
6. Yes, I plan to wear jeans with this wardrobe outside of work as I really like the examples I haven't seen around this site. Planning on posting this combo with my current denim or advice later on. Any particular denim brand that you find works well with menswear?
7. In the above photo of me in the jacket, would you say the jacket is fitted?
 

breakaway01

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I grew up in Vancouver, guessing that’s where you’re located? Anyhow I agree with pretty much everything here. I am a big fan of tweed but would suggest for your first navy jacket that you get something that you can wear year-round. S&M have a variety of hopsack navy jackets that are versatile.
For shoes, chukka boots are super versatile for the outfits you’re describing. Dark brown. Don’t be afraid of suede in rainy climates, it’s more weather resistant than you may think.
My two other comments: the 38S jacket that you posted may be too small in the chest. See how the lapels are bowing instead of lying flat? You might also try a slim 40R in addition to contemporary 38R.
Finally the trousers in your photo are very slim/skinny. The fabric doesn’t hang cleanly and also results in an unbalanced top/bottom look. You should consider trying a fuller leg.
 

hamnjam

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I grew up in Vancouver, guessing that’s where you’re located? Anyhow I agree with pretty much everything here. I am a big fan of tweed but would suggest for your first navy jacket that you get something that you can wear year-round. S&M have a variety of hopsack navy jackets that are versatile.
For shoes, chukka boots are super versatile for the outfits you’re describing. Dark brown. Don’t be afraid of suede in rainy climates, it’s more weather resistant than you may think.
My two other comments: the 38S jacket that you posted may be too small in the chest. See how the lapels are bowing instead of lying flat? You might also try a slim 40R in addition to contemporary 38R.
Finally the trousers in your photo are very slim/skinny. The fabric doesn’t hang cleanly and also results in an unbalanced top/bottom look. You should consider trying a fuller leg.

Yup! rain and Canada makes it pretty easy to point out Vancouver?

You are correct that I don't have a Navy blazer and I do plan to add a hopsack one. not sure on timing yet.

Chukka boots in wool trousers? I would only have thought of Chukkas with denim and chinos.

thank you for the lapel comment made me look what lapels meant and what bowing meant indicate. My concern would be the shoulder fit - a slim 40r would still have wider shoulers, no? Although returns are super straight forward nowadays, might be worth a try.

Oh these are slim fit chinos - I don't have any wool trousers so this is where I'm starting from.
 

JackEst3

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7. In the above photo of me in the jacket, would you say the jacket is fitted?

Yes, it's clearly shaped in the waist. Possibly even too small, as others mentioned, but I can't really tell from the picture. The general principle here is that a combination looks more coherent if the shilouette of the jacket and trousers are broadly similar.

1. Navy trousers will go with the jacket colours (grey, brown, or maybe green) I have in mind. I've read before about how versatile navy chinos are, any insight on why navy trousers have some unpopularity here?

Navy trousers aren't really popular in classic menswear partially because the combination of a navy blazer and grey flannel trousers is such a common one, meanwhile navy odd trousers just aren't so common historically, possibly because navy blazers and brown tones for tweed jackets were so ubiquitous, grey became more common with slacks. Some say that it's easier to pair a dark jacket with lighter trousers, others say that navy trousers often look too much like they're a part of a suit, particularly if they're made of a smooth worsted wool. Since chinos have a different texture and are more casual, they work better in navy. Ultimately it comes down to texture and material of the trousers, but I, personally am not fundamentally opposed to navy odd trousers.
 

Res

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Thanks!

What I'm listing here will work for both fall/winter other than adding a layer or two. Other than the persistent rain, our winters are quite mild here.
1. blue and green appeal to me but I haven't seen it as a tweed colour before. Is it common to use this colour during fall/winter?
7. Don't have any brands in mind, I already have pairs from Banana Republic which I'm sure doesn't get much fanfare here and to an extent I agree. Bought a few pairs heavily discounted when I was in a rush but was disappointed with them even at the sale price. Any brands you have in mind?
8. I also believe in quality before quantity now as until recently I had a wardrobe mostly full of fast fashion clothes I didn't wear but I do admit I'm a bit surprised at this comment. May I some suggestions on where you should start with for quality wear?

General rule of thumb is light/vibrant in spring/summer time and muted/dark colors for fall/winter.



You already listed Meermin and TLB, I think those are great brands to start with, they offer quality leather and build for the price. Which will last you a long time if taken care of properly. I would agree with another poster here, chukkas in suede are a must! Here's a tip, invest in Tanned suede which pretty much makes the suede waterproof for the duration of it's life. Or treat normal suede with waterproof spray.

Having bought Banana Republic isn't a bad choice, if gotten on sale. I'm talking more along the lines of the dressier chino from Cordings, for example.

There are other brands that charge a pretty penny and offer quality at the same time. More of a niche offering really, and I'm talking $150+ for a pair of chinos, which in my opinion is ludicrous because half of those designers use synthetic fibers.
 
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hamnjam

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Yes, it's clearly shaped in the waist. Possibly even too small, as others mentioned, but I can't really tell from the picture. The general principle here is that a combination looks more coherent if the shilouette of the jacket and trousers are broadly similar.



Navy trousers aren't really popular in classic menswear partially because the combination of a navy blazer and grey flannel trousers is such a common one, meanwhile navy odd trousers just aren't so common historically, possibly because navy blazers and brown tones for tweed jackets were so ubiquitous, grey became more common with slacks. Some say that it's easier to pair a dark jacket with lighter trousers, others say that navy trousers often look too much like they're a part of a suit, particularly if they're made of a smooth worsted wool. Since chinos have a different texture and are more casual, they work better in navy. Ultimately it comes down to texture and material of the trousers, but I, personally am not fundamentally opposed to navy odd trousers.

Haven't considered a 40 slim, so I will try to post better pictures of my 38S contemporary to get better opinions. My pants will throw things off a bit as I only have slim fit chinos.

Thanks very much for the navy pants insight, a lot to learn here. As I'm starting out, I'm leaning in the direction of a light grey and mid grey flannel trousers.


General rule of thumb is light/vibrant in spring/summer time and muted/dark colors for fall/winter.



You already listed Meermin and TLB, I think those are great brands to start with, they offer quality leather and build for the price. Which will last you a long time if taken care of properly. I would agree with another poster here, chukkas in suede are a must! Here's a tip, invest in Tanned suede which pretty much makes the suede waterproof for the duration of it's life. Or treat normal suede with waterproof spray.

Having bought Banana Republic isn't a bad choice, if gotten on sale. I'm talking more along the lines of the dressier chino from Cordings, for example.

There are other brands that charge a pretty penny and offer quality at the same time. More of a niche offering really, and I'm talking $150+ for a pair of chinos, which in my opinion is ludicrous because half of those designers use synthetic fibers.

I've never really consider suede before but again good information here is opening up my perspective. When you mean "tanned suede", do you refer to the colour or the way the suede was made?

Thanks for the Cordings mention I'll look through them. Dressier chinos refer to a medium to high rise and non-slim fit?
 

Res

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I've never really consider suede before but again good information here is opening up my perspective. When you mean "tanned suede", do you refer to the colour or the way the suede was made?

There are two options Repello and reverse calf suede, also known as "Janus" calf from CF Stead, it's basically tanned in a way that they mesh scotchgard into the suede during the tanning process. I don't think its necessary to spray your suede shoes, as suede is resilient. All Carmina suede shoes use reverse suede.

If you're really concerned about getting suede wet here are a couple of spray options for suede.

Tarrago Nano Protector
Meltonian Water & Stain Protector

Thanks for the Cordings mention I'll look through them. Dressier chinos refer to a medium to high rise and non-slim fit?

Better fabric, classic look, no fashion trendy designs.
 
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hamnjam

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There are two options Repello and reverse calf suede, also known as "Janus" calf from CF Stead, it's basically tanned in a way that they mesh scotchgard into the suede during the tanning process. I don't think its necessary to spray your suede shoes, as suede is resilient. All Carmina suede shoes use reverse suede.

If you're really concerned about getting suede wet here are a couple of spray options for suede.

Tarrago Nano Protector ()
Meltonian Water & Stain Protector



Better fabric, classic look, no fashion trendy designs.


Thank you very much, I'll be looking at suede shoes and suede differently now.
 

hamnjam

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I just noticed that a lot of flannel trousers have a cuff on them. Is this the recommendation? What about for your other trousers?
 

JackEst3

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Cuffs are an entirely valid but never an obligatory option on nearly all trousers. Currently they're out of fashion, but can still be worn. They may be more prevalent on flannel trousers, because those are a more classic (or old-fashioned, depending on whom you ask) style, but plain-hemmed flannels are a perfectly valid option as well.

The practical benefit of cuffs is that they weigh down the trouser legs, helping them to drape better, although flannel is quite a heavy cloth that should drape fine anyway. However, some say that they tend to catch lint and dust and some don't recommend them for shorter men, because they break up and shorten the leg line.

In my opinion, they are a small enough detail that usually it's just a stylistic preference.
 

hamnjam

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Cuffs are an entirely valid but never an obligatory option on nearly all trousers. Currently they're out of fashion, but can still be worn. They may be more prevalent on flannel trousers, because those are a more classic (or old-fashioned, depending on whom you ask) style, but plain-hemmed flannels are a perfectly valid option as well.

The practical benefit of cuffs is that they weigh down the trouser legs, helping them to drape better, although flannel is quite a heavy cloth that should drape fine anyway. However, some say that they tend to catch lint and dust and some don't recommend them for shorter men, because they break up and shorten the leg line.

In my opinion, they are a small enough detail that usually it's just a stylistic preference.

Thanks again! lots to learn here again. Personally, I think flannel trousers looks good with a short cuff which is nice as I'm 5'8".
 

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