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***....Falcon Garments - Official Affiliate Thread....*** MTM/MTO Leather Jackets

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by mrchariybrown, Sep 1, 2015.

  1. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    Most likely. They're a two man operation and unless they have a secret deep pocketed angel investor there's no way they're ordering directly from tanneries which require a minimum run.

    @la guy is currently working with tanneries on his own leather jacket collaboration, perhaps he can let us know the kind of minimums that's required. And [email protected] can let us know the square footage that's required per jacket. That should give us a rough idea about how many people need to commit. And we're not even talking about prices yet.

    It would be cool if we could actually pull this off for a real nice leather but I'm not betting on it.
     
  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Doable. You can order from places like tannery row (www.tanneryrow.com) or even direct from Horween. The issue is that the price, and the shipping cost. Leather is heavy And lead times can be long.

    As for amount needed, it really depends on how picky/careful are the makers. There can be a ton of scraps.
     
  3. Death24xASecond

    Death24xASecond Senior member

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    @Odd I/O : Sadly, not just you. I too noticed the veins on the left shoulder. I guess it was too much to hope for. All goodwill to those who don't mind them, but I find them unacceptable.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2015
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Oh, right, and for a men's jacket, it typically takes about 30-35 sqt ft of leather to make a good jacket. Remember, a lot of a hide is simply not suitable for he highly visible parts of the jacket, like the front, back, and sleeves.

    Here, if you want to know the basics of what pieces of leather you can, or rather, should, use, check this out: http://fashion-incubator.com/sewing-with-leather-pt1/

    For the visible parts of the jacket - the front, back, and arms, only a fairly limited section of a hide s suitable for use. In the diagram below, you can really only use A and maybe C for the collar. And for something like lamb, you are going to need a bunch of skins, all with matching grain and color.
    [​IMG]
    So, at www.thetanneryrow.com, say you can get a garment weight Horween CXL or Cavalier, or a CF stead Desert Oasis, I am looking at about $6-7/sqft. That would be... let's say, $210 for the leather alone, not including shipping to freaking Korea, which will have to be by air unless you want to ship freight a wait, literally, months. And this is assuming that you get a full yield out of the leather and there is no loss (which happens all the time - leather rips, it is cut wrong, or there is a scar that is unacceptable, etc...). This is not counting the cost of trims. If you use something like excellas, you are looking at $60 in trims. The liner is going to be the cheapest part, especially if you use something like rayon. All this, and we haven't even included the cost of labor, overhead like salaries, storage, an office, a reasonable profit, etc... You are easily, imo, looking at something like a $200-300 upcharge. Which brings you in line with something like Aero, which is where you should expect the prices to be anyway for a small outfit working without the benefits of vertical structuring and scale.
     
  5. 0JSIMPS0N

    0JSIMPS0N Senior member

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    Fits kind of awkward no? Loose in the upper sleeve and a tad wide in the shoulders. You look like a fairly typical size, and slim. I'm of a similar build and have found many brands fit much better than that off-the-rack (off the top of my head: slp, balmain, rick, julius, ccp, etc). Made to measure is actually a bad thing for most people (and no, you are problably not the exception). You have no idea what you could fuck up for very little minimal gain. Then again im used to wearing much more expensive stuff (no humble brag intended) so maybe that fit is considered good for that price range. But it looks off, ok to good, definitely not great.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2015
  6. hmtwrk

    hmtwrk Senior member

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    fit battle me
     
  7. Poomba

    Poomba Senior member

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    Fishtail pleaseeeeee
     
  8. artishard116

    artishard116 Senior member

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    lolwut
     
  9. mrchariybrown

    mrchariybrown Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thought it was a joke so I just dismissed it lol
     
  10. thatoneguy

    thatoneguy Senior member

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    Here I'll reply for you


    [​IMG]
     
  11. msg

    msg Senior member

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    @hmtwrk jacket looks great...or, as the kids in the JE thread say, fire.
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    How much something costs, and how well it fits, has nearly zero correlation. It depends on your body type and the specific piece of clothing. I think that the jacket looks good, overall. I think that if anything, it's slightly long in the body, (I rarely seen DR where the hem hits past the top of the pants pockets, even on "fashion" versions), but he seems like like that.

    As for your comparisons, only SLP, which makes over the top versions of classic jackets, which this one is, is even remotely not nonsensical.
     
  13. hmtwrk

    hmtwrk Senior member

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    thanks. i actually think the length is pretty good (slightly-cropped) for my height... those trousers have a really high rise, which i generally like in my dress pants. here's a shot from willy's challenge that shows the proportions with a more casual fit:

    [​IMG]

    @0JSIMPS0N knows a lot about clothes and he's actually right (if you look past his demeanor lol). i've gained 20 pounds this year (#gainz) and a full inch in the shoulders so i left a little extra room in the shoulders/chest/arms for when i get to my target weight. honestly, i think one of the keys to mtm is to not obsess over the perfect fit or a quarter of an inch here or there. unless you're going to be wearing nothing but a t-shirt underneath, a little margin for error is good.
     
  14. segrantz

    segrantz Active Member

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    So can this 15% "screwed over" be given away? I have no desire to purchase anything leather ever again and would give someone my coupon. This was mentioned in TOJ thread. Thought I'd ask here.
     
  15. mrchariybrown

    mrchariybrown Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Sorry, it is not.
     

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