Fabrics used in 1930’s?

[Spinster Jones]

I want to have a suit made, but I don’t wanna spend cash on getting something that looks nice, but is of a light quality. The consesus on this forum seems to be to own lots of different pairs, and then rotate between them. I think that’s wasteful in this day and age.

I’m interested in going for the most hard-wearing fabric. The suit one would go to battle with, or camping, or just daytime strolling. Something one doesn’t have to care about.

I realize were talking high oz’, but what was common in the 30’s, and where should one look to have it replicated? Tweeds? Meltons? Gamekeeper? Herringbone? In Norway we have the bunad, made with heavy woollens/meltons - why aren’t suits made with the same fabric? And wouldn’t that be akin to a suit from the 30’s? Something one would do farming in.

And before you might reply with «style»; I would rather look un-stylish but wear a take-me-to-war-I-dare-you-suit that would take a daily beating, with patched holes and whatnot, than a pansy I-wore-it-two-days-in-row-and-now-theres-a-hole-suit.

Which brand offers the hardest wearing fabric? Harrisons? Moons? Huddersfield? What weave is seen as the strongest?

 

[JFWR]

...Why would you go...camping in a suit, dude? Like...what?

 

[Spinster Jones]

...Why would you go...camping in a suit, dude? Like...what?

Why would you own so many pieces of clothing? Wool breathes better than anything? Why do you have to buy a new plastic jacket every third year, because it’s «worn out»?

They climbed mountains in woollen suits, what’s the problem? Movability? If one hard-wearing item could check of many boxes, why should it not?

I’m not interested in having my life revolve around what’s trending and what’s not, **** all that. I plainly want something that will just last, whatever I throw at it. Wouldn’t that just be an ethical, environmental, and wise decision?

I’m neither saying that other’s have to follow, I’m merely stating that I would rather be uncomfortable - than wasteful.

 

[JFWR]

Why would you own so many pieces of clothing? Wool breathes better than anything? Why do you have to buy a new plastic jacket every third year, because it’s «worn out»? They climbed mountains in woollen suits, what’s the problem? Movability? If one hard-wearing item could check of many boxes, why should it not? Wouldn’t that just be a wise decision?

I agree with making suits out of hard wearing material, but I just don't understand why you would...go camping in one.

I've seen people wearing pretty nice leisurely clothing on camping trips, but a business suit worn in the woods? That seems like you're just making a fundamental mistake.

 

[Spinster Jones]

but a business suit worn in the woods? That seems like you're just making a fundamental mistake.

But you’re assuming something different from what I just stated. Why would you suppose I want a business suit? I just stated I want something that could take a beating, like the meltons user during WW2. In the form of a three piece, because it’s also a good design.

 

[JFWR]

But you’re assuming something different from what I just stated. Why would you suppose I want a business suit? I just stated I want something that could take a beating, like the meltons user during WW2. In the form of a three piece, because it’s also a good design.

Okay, I get what you are going for.

 

[Wertheimer]

You might want to check out Thomas Farthing of London. To be frank I can't speak for the quality of their suits since I've never owned one, but it seems like they might have some items in the ballpark of what you are looking for: Suits and jackets that can be worn in city as well as more rural, outdoor environments, and which are somewhat durable/heavier. Looks like their stuff is made in Portugal, whatever that's worth. Seems like they have a lot of stuff made from Harris tweed, which I believe is known to be fairly durable. But there are others on this forum who know far more than I about fabric and construction for suits.

Check out this suit: https://www.thomasfarthing.co.uk/shop/woodrow-jacket

Could see someone hunting or grabbing a cortado in this puppy.

 

[dieworkwear]

I suppose you'd want a Thornproof tweed, one of the few tweeds that can be used as a suit since it's dense and not spongey. But it's not something you'd wear in the summer. It may look odd in certain social settings. And you may ruin it camping (even if people used to go hunting in these things). Suits are expensive, need pressing and maintenance, etc. Sweating in one while hiking in the woods seems uncomfortable impractical.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I want to have a suit made, but I don’t wanna spend cash on getting something that looks nice, but is of a light quality. The consesus on this forum seems to be to own lots of different pairs, and then rotate between them. I think that’s wasteful in this day and age.

I’m interested in going for the most hard-wearing fabric. The suit one would go to battle with, or camping, or just daytime strolling. Something one doesn’t have to care about.

I realize were talking high oz’, but what was common in the 30’s, and where should one look to have it replicated? Tweeds? Meltons? Gamekeeper? Herringbone? In Norway we have the bunad, made with heavy woollens/meltons - why aren’t suits made with the same fabric? And wouldn’t that be akin to a suit from the 30’s? Something one would do farming in.

And before you might reply with «style»; I would rather look un-stylish but wear a take-me-to-war-I-dare-you-suit that would take a daily beating, with patched holes and whatnot, than a pansy I-wore-it-two-days-in-row-and-now-theres-a-hole-suit.

Which brand offers the hardest wearing fabric? Harrisons? Moons? Huddersfield? What weave is seen as the strongest?

The thing about all those people who wore tailoring while climbing mountains is that they would have been much more comfortable in the material we wear today for sport. A number of them also aren't wearing suits. They may be wearing woven wool clothing, but that is just because that is what they had.

Also, if you wear a suit to do all that stuff, your suit will wear out that much faster. And regardless of what suit you get, you will need a number over the course of your lifetime--nothing is indestructible--so you may as well have clothing more specialized so that clothing doesn't wear out prematurely.

That being said, if you really truly want a suit that lasts a long time, get a pair or two of extra trousers. Trousers wear out first. Worst case scenario you have an extra pair of trousers to wear separately. You should also get a second jacket for when the first one wears out so you can pull a whole ship of Theseus. Lining prevents fabric from wearing down too much, so get everything lined. Cavalry twill was worn for riding horses, so it should be pretty durable. Covert cloth or whipcord could also be good. Looser fitting clothing will also last longer. You may as well go all the way and get a twill like this one from Fox Brothers. I don't know if it is as dense and hard wearing as the twills mentioned above, but if it is, it should last a long time at 28 oz. You may have to get rid of the heating in your house though.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

The thing about all those people who wore tailoring while climbing mountains is that they would have been much more comfortable in the material we wear today for sport. A number of them also aren't wearing suits. They may be wearing woven wool clothing, but that is just because that is what they had.

Also, if you wear a suit to do all that stuff, your suit will wear out that much faster. And regardless of what suit you get, you will need a number over the course of your lifetime--nothing is indestructible--so you may as well have clothing more specialized so that clothing doesn't wear out prematurely.

That being said, if you really truly want a suit that lasts a long time, get a pair or two of extra trousers. Trousers wear out first. Worst case scenario you have an extra pair of trousers to wear separately. You should also get a second jacket for when the first one wears out so you can pull a whole ship of Theseus. Lining prevents fabric from wearing down too much, so get everything lined. Cavalry twill was worn for riding horses, so it should be pretty durable. Covert cloth or whipcord could also be good. Looser fitting clothing will also last longer. You may as well go all the way and get a twill like this one from Fox Brothers. I don't know if it is as dense and hard wearing as the twills mentioned above, but if it is, it should last a long time at 28 oz. You may have to get rid of the heating in your house though.

Agreed with almost everything you wrote here, but I just wanted to add something about wool and active pursuits. Although we have a variety of other sportswear fabrics that also wick moisture, breathe, etc., today - none of them also insulate when wet like wool does, as far as I know. The closest thing to imitating that is possibly a down parka with gore-tex lining and taped seams, but even there we have to use multiple things to do the job that wool does on its own. And wool won't tear and suddenly be rendered useless.

Now for real arctic conditions I'd take fur any day.

 

[Spinster Jones]

Agreed with almost everything you wrote here, but I just wanted to add something about wool and active pursuits. Although we have a variety of other sportswear fabrics that also wick moisture, breathe, etc., today - none of them also insulate when wet like wool does, as far as I know.

Quite correct! Proved throughout the centuries for a reason, I would presume. Fur I could also stand behind, as the Sapmi people wear reindeer-hides on every body part and still survive the blistering coldness of the north hemisphere. However, hard to make a suit out of, and - probably an attention seeker.

 

[Spinster Jones]

Check out this suit: https://www.thomasfarthing.co.uk/shop/woodrow-jacket

Yes, so far they are the best ones at resembling what I’m looking for. Old Joe out of Japan is another one. SNS Herning. Simon James Cathcart. Chester Cordite, another one. Johnson Wollen Mills’ pants. Duffel coats from Montgomery or Gloverall.

 

[Spinster Jones]

The thing about all those people who wore tailoring while climbing mountains is that they would have been much more comfortable in the material we wear today for sport.

I think that’s a lie that just loves being tossed around. In the Nordic countries we still make hunting gear out of Lodens and Meltons, and it’s more comfortable than anything else. Everyone who has ever hunted with one has the experience to tell you that a good woollen suit is better and warmer in the long run, but more expensive and harder to find.

Thanks for the Fox link, that does actually look quite interesting. Didn’t know they made so hard-wearing fabrics, as flannels are out of question (with their proneness for chafing and tearing).

 

[Garcia]

Like mentioned, I doubt there is anything more hardwearing than this, which in my opinion is close to bulletproof. I have two 3 piece suits made up of this my self. You can get it in two different weights, and the 18oz is warm enough to wear with just a scarf, hat and gloves on the coldest days here (in the east of Norway). If you live in Oslo or Stavanger there are a few local guys you can visit and have them order this cloth for you to commission a suit in.

P&H – THORNPROOF – Harrisons

P&H – THORNPROOF

www.harrisons1863.com

 

[dieworkwear]

If your tailor doesn't carry that specific book, Harrisons also has distributors.