Fabrics for light grey summer suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AlexE, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    With W.W. Chan touring soon, I am going to tap the collective SF-brain power: I intend to commission a solid light-grey spring/summer suit. I am set for the details, but I am still not settled on the fabric choice. So,


    • Are there any details (weaves, etc.) to look out for in order to get a lightweight, but yet robust summer wool suit?
    • Are there any swatch books for spring/summer wools I should look out for (some things I have in mind at the moment are Scabal's Appeal Bunch, Minnis' Fresco, Dormeuil's 15.8)?

    I will be glad about any comment or idea.
     


  2. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Might want to try the Unfunded Liabilities thread--most the people super knowledgeable about fabrics will see it there.
     


  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I don't have personal experience but I've heard good things about crispaire
     


  4. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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  5. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    I had Chan make me a lightweight summer suit in light gray from VBC Revenge Super 140. I haven't worn it often since i got it, but it seems to be very satisfactory, and I get a lot of compliments on it. This fabric also has the advantage of being one of the least expensive suitings offered by Chan
     


  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    In my opinion, I find Lesser 10oz nice enough for office during HK summer, good for absorbing moisture and keeps the cool air inside the jacket for a while. My dad has tried Crispaire but I don't think they tailor nicely, the fabric is not very good for retaining its shape.

    Fresco from Minnis and Smith Woolens will also be a trusted choice, pretty much everything you need for plain colours.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2013


  7. mattcritchlow

    mattcritchlow Well-Known Member

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    While not from Chan, I ordered a similar suit recently and went with Smiths Finmeresco 9.5oz light grey (SW 4068), jacket half-lined.

    I liked the weave and feel better than the Minnis, but that's of course subjective.

    Lesser 10oz is a great mention as well. For me, I specifically wanted a fresco suit.

    Good luck!
     


  8. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    I have a light gray crispaire suit from Chan. Makes a great suit imo. I also have stuff made of the 11.5 oz, 4-ply finmeresco and the 9/10oz, 2-ply Minnis fresco. All three are great imo, but the heavyweight Smiths (4 ply) is probably not really a summer suit. More spring/fall. Being 4 ply though, it's probably the most durable--certainly feels that way and it's worn well over the past few years of intense use.

    For a real summer suit, I don't think you really can go wrong with the lightweight Smiths (9.5), crispaire (10 oz?) or either lightweight Minnis (8/9 oz or 9/10). Of these, the coolest wearing is probably the high-twist Minnis, followed by the 2-ply Minnis in a tie with crispaire. The Smiths may be as cool as these last two, but I don't have any experience w/ it other than feeling swatches, and from that limited exp., its weave was certainly smoother/denser than Minnis 9/10 and, I think, a little denser than Crispaire. It may be the most durable of them though, because it's three ply and, acc. to Arnold, woven of superior (longer-staple, I think) woolen fibers than the other two.

    Other than these characteristics, color is important, and I wouldn't worry if that was your deciding factor.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2013


  9. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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    Many thanks for all recommendations and links. This is a great start to go with a plan through Chan's fabric books.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2013


  10. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Consider Zegna Trofeo. I've a RAF blue (around 11oz I reckon) that made up very well.
     


  11. XFactor

    XFactor Senior member

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    Interesting reviews. Thanks. I am looking to get some of these for Summer weather that goes 90-100 and above.
     


  12. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    Really, any of these is good for 75+, especially if you have humidity also.

    Another one to consider is Holland and Sherry Cool Breeze. It is a tropical weight worsted that comes as light as 7.5 oz. I have a summer suit in this and Minnis 8.5 oz. fresco, and I stay relatively cool in both.
     


  13. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    This is a great thread and resource. I am having Holland and Sherry Cool Breeze navy(looks like navy slate-gray), 7.5 oz worsted 100s, made up in a half-lined summer suit. H&S has a very dark navy 7.5oz in this summer's collection, but it looked very tight (Super 140s) thus I went with the Cool Breeze. Will follow up with a pic.
     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Consider the finish and weave in terms of how you will use the suit. You may want a sharkskin if you want a businessy/ richer look. I like the light grey nailhead or birdseye for a summer grey. More contrast in the look and texture of the cloth. Makes up well as a DB. Depends on what you are looking for.

    The lightest weight fresco doesn't have as much body as the next weight up. Crispaire has a softer hand than the fresco. Minnis has a mid grey windowpane, 8/9 ounce in the Fresco II book, looks great made up.

    Almost every brand has a plain weave book. Some look more plain than others so that would be a subjective call as to your preferences.

    I like the VBC legacy 110's or Drapers Arrival book more than the Revenge 140's. If you go 10 ounce, Draper's Hobart is a very good cloth. Scabal Eton book, 130's has good body for the weight that wear and tailor well but are dressier looking cloths.

    Look at hopsack. Some of the same qualities of fresco with a smoother hand. Several makers of these.

    I advocate using lighter weight shirtings to keep cooler in summer, Cotton/linen blends are a favorite. Batiste is lighter and not as transparent as voile.

    Listen to Chan, they work with the cloth and should have valid experiential input.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014


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