fabric wieghts

[globetrotter]

ok, as I am looking at fabrics, I am wondering if I am thinking a little incorrectly about weights. I need to be thinking about stuff that I can wear in Kuwait in July, and stuff I can wear in Norway in January.

so I am thinking about suits in a 9-11 ounce, and I was thinking about 15 or 16 ounces for winter. now I am thinking that that is way too heavy, and that 13 might be more of what I am looking for.


guide me.

 

[bigbris1]

Kuwait? I'd look into kevlar weight fabrics.

 

[Tidybeard]

For the lighter weight stuff I like high twist cloth. I have a suit made up from H&S 9oz high twist and it's proven really good, especially for travel. It's light weight, strong and resists wrinkles really well.

 

[George]

Originally Posted by globetrotter

ok, as I am looking at fabrics, I am wondering if I am thinking a little incorrectly about weights. I need to be thinking about stuff that I can wear in Kuwait in July, and stuff I can wear in Norway in January. so I am thinking about suits in a 9-11 ounce, and I was thinking about 15 or 16 ounces for winter. now I am thinking that that is way too heavy, and that 13 might be more of what I am looking for. guide me.
Look at Mohair for Kuwait. For Norway, I wouldn't go heavier than 13oz as you can always wear an overcoat when outside. 15oz suiting in an heated office environment will be uncomfortable.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Originally Posted by George

For Norway, I wouldn't go heavier than 13oz as you can always wear an overcoat when outside. 15oz suiting in an heated office environment will be uncomfortable.

I would disagree. But it depends on your tolerance for heavier cloths. Some people roast when wearing anything above 14oz, in a heated environment during winter. I do not overheat easily.

Get the heavier cloths for winter...you'll enjoy it.

13oz is something I can wear in the cooler Gulf summers...but I would find it lacking...in a Norwegian winter...even if it was a 13oz woollen flannel.

Norway, in the winter...18-21oz suiting cloths would be appropriate...in addition to the 32oz overcoat...plus thermals for your legs. Just take off the coat when inside, remove your thermals, and hopefully the rooms will be set at 65-70 degrees...common range

 

[Manton]

Everyone reacts to heat differently. There is no way I could stand any suit in the Gulf in summer. But I can wear 15 ounce worsted even inside in winter without a problem. I can't take heavy flannel nearly as well.

 

[gdl203]

21oz suiting cloths? huh?

 

[George]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

I would disagree. But it depends on your tolerance for heavier cloths. Some people roast when wearing anything above 14oz, in a heated environment during winter. I do not overheat easily. Get the heavier cloths for winter...you'll enjoy it. 13oz is something I can wear in the cooler Gulf summers...but I would find it lacking...in a Norwegian winter...even if it was a 13oz woollen flannel. Norway, in the winter...18-21oz suiting cloths would be appropriate...in addition to the 32oz overcoat...plus thermals for your legs. Just take off the coat when inside, remove your thermals, and hopefully the rooms will be set at 65-70 degrees...common range
Bloody hell you must have liquid Helium running through your veins, you want to be careful that you don't trip up, you'll shatter.

 

[Michael Ay329]

Originally Posted by George

Bloody hell you must have liquid Helium running through your veins, you want to be careful that you don't trip up, you'll shatter.

I'm a criminal defense lawyer...which makes me cold blooded

Gdl203: P&B's Universal book, H.E. Box and Dugdale have suiting & coating cloths in the 21oz range. Lesser also has some 18-20oz a grey and navy, but not in their current book (which is 16oz)... its older stock which might still be available.

If anyone desires other 21oz stuff, just contact Sator

 

[gdl203]

I am surprised that anyone would make such a blanket recommendation to buy 20oz weight suits for winter. It is mind boggling, to be honest. It's very clear to me that most people would find this an uncomfortable and impractical weight for everyday suits. 13oz for winter, 8-9 oz for summer.

 

[Manton]

I react very badly to being or feeling overheated but I can easily wear 16 ounce worsted.

 

[George]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

I'm a criminal defense lawyer...which makes me cold blooded Gdl203: P&B's Universal book, H.E. Box and Dugdale have suiting & coating cloths in the 21oz range. Lesser also has some 18-20oz a grey and navy, but not in their current book (which is 16oz)... its older stock which might still be available. If anyone desires other 21oz stuff, just contact Sator
Mmm, I remember Dugdales stocking Barathea in that weight, but not standard business suiting. I know H&S has a 16oz book called Perenial 303 but that only has a few staples in it. I would not recomend the P&B cloth to anyone as the the cloth isn't finished to a standard that I would expect for a cloth destined for a bespoke garment. H.E Box are known for their Calvary twills as I recall, I've never seen a book of standard suitings from them. Lessers & Smiths are others that stock cloth of that weight. Ogden & Bateman may also stock them but I suspect you'd have to ring them as I don't recall seeing anything of that weight in their current books.

 

[globetrotter]

ok, thanks, I think that my initial idea was valid, I was starting to feel from some stuff I was told that 13 would do it, but I do want to stick with 15-16. thanks for the heavy and 9-10 for the light, 13 for odd trousers and jackets

 

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

Gdl203: P&B's Universal book, H.E. Box and Dugdale have suiting & coating cloths in the 21oz range. Lesser also has some 18-20oz a grey and navy, but not in their current book (which is 16oz)... its older stock which might still be available. If anyone desires other 21oz stuff, just contact Sator
Below is my 21oz in Dugdale so you can see how it moves... besides the fitting flaws in the suit, I don't actually find the 21 oz too hot at all... Dugdale weaves it very tightly with little 'fuzziness' so it's not that warm, actually might insulate from the heat. I was glad I followed Sator's advice on this point and will always get heavy weight cloths in the future. Two tailors I went to didn't know this was 21 oz, it's actually not that different from lighter cloths, not that exotic at all.

 

[bigbris1]

I would have liked a slimmer sleeve but besides that nicely done Svennson.