Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Fabric selection for North Carolina

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Chase H, Nov 9, 2012.

  1. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    Hi all. I'm ordering my first suit from Thick as Thieves (after being repeatedly ridiculed for choosing Black Lapel in particular, and online MTM in general) and was hoping for some advice on fabrics.

    I live in North Carolina. It gets very hot there for a good portion of the year. It has winters that, at the coldest, hover right around freezing. I handle cold much better and more comfortably than I handle heat. Given this, should I consider getting my first suit in a summer-weight mohair blend?

    Also, for future suits (and possibly this one) that are not summer-weight, what other characteristics of a suit fabric (other than a low super number) reduce propensity for wrinkling?
     


  2. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    121
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Oxon, UK
    Your first suit should be a navy or charcoal solid. If you wear relatively warm, look at a 8-9oz non-super tropical weight. Lesser and Dugdale's have very good ones. I'd avoid mohair, you might end up as "the guy in the shiny suit".
     


  3. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    Thank you for the advice.

    EDIT: Alas, he does not take customer-provided fabrics until at the earliest the second suit he makes. I may go with the charcoal mohair super 120. I know that that's against almost everything you said, but he doesn't stock any non-super charcoal or navy fabric, and he claims that the grey fabrics have a nice texture that reduces the sheen.

    To determine if this is a deal-breaker, may I inquire as to why you recommend non-super fabrics?
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2012


  4. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

    Messages:
    928
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    

    Yes, stay clear of the mohair.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2012


  5. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    That's a majority. Motion passed. Again, though, he doesn't offer anything non-super. What are the disadvantages to super fabrics?
     


  6. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

    Messages:
    928
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    

    The "super" designation merely indicates the width of the wool fibers, the fibers being thinner the higher the super number is. All cloth therefore has a super number. The major downside to cloth of a very high super number is that it's more fragile and prone to crinkling than cloth of a low super number.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2012


  7. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,625
    Likes Received:
    1,171
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    OK... As someone who also grew up and went to school in North Carolina (go Heels), can I offer this... Go to Brooks Brothers and buy a solid charcoal or navy blue suit.

    First, I wouldn't trust any MTM tailor around there.

    Second, you are going to stand out, and not in a good way. You said this is your first suit--once you have several and know exactly what works for you and doesn't, then you can think about buying a flashy MTM suit in mohair or whatever else.

    I know BB isn't sexy, but honestly, your first suit shouldn't be sexy. You are going to use this thing to go to cocktails and do interviews... It will get worn 3x a year max. And let's be honest, the fashion in the Carolinas skews very traditionally. Buy something classic and make sure it fits you very, very well and you will look great without standing out as that guy wearing the flashy suit. Not to mention you are going to need this thing for interviews, and you really, really don't want your suit to stand out there.

    Go to Brooks Brothers, and just make sure whatever you buy fits perfectly. You'll look great!

    EDIT: Just saw it's thick as thieves, so point one no longer stands. They put out a fairly well made suit from what I understand, but it's going to stand out--see point two.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2012


  8. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    That was what I thought. So should I be alright with, say, Super 120?
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2012


  9. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    121
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Oxon, UK
    Unless you can identify specific bunches/mills, I would say the lower the better. Get a second pair of trousers, possibly a waistcoat. It'll enhance the life of your suit.
     


  10. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

    Messages:
    928
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    

    Yes, definitely two pairs of pants. And a vest is a sharp extra if you go with winter cloth.
     


  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,379
    Likes Received:
    4,581
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    You don't need two pairs of pants unless you're going to be wearing this thing all the time IMHO. Are you a skinny dude? If not, then avoid TaT.
     


  12. Zarium

    Zarium Senior member

    Messages:
    276
    Likes Received:
    31
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Location:
    GMT+8
    I second the advice to get a BB suit as your first suit. You'll stand out (and not in a good way) in a suit from this particular MTM operation. If I recall correctly, their offerings are pretty fashion forward.
     


  13. Chase H

    Chase H Senior member

    Messages:
    326
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2012
    Thank you all for the advice! I think I'm getting a charcoal suit, probably with two pairs of pants.

    Also, TAR!
     


  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,379
    Likes Received:
    4,581
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by