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Fabric review + fit advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gregory, Oct 11, 2004.

  1. gregory

    gregory Senior Member

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    Hello all, Some fabric reviews and a request asking for fit advice: Dobby 152. Very beautiful sky blue. This twill fabric feels and looks luxurious. Appropriate for business casual as well as for casual shirts. One of the best fabrics I've ordered. Plain cotton 11. Nice 'sea island' fabric. Nothing spectacular. Rather thin. Stripe 326. Very nice pattern. Excellent for summer or spring. Very light and rather thin. Here's how my latest order looks on me. I would appreciate your advice on how I should tweek my next order. [​IMG] Cheers
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Shoulders should be cut narrower (main criticism). Less material around the torso. Slightly shorter sleeves.
     


  3. Mike C.

    Mike C. Distinguished Member

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    I was going to say exactly what LaGuy said. Go to a tailor to get properly measured. That shirt looks like you bought it at the mall, which is a shame considering it's custom. I know you can do better.

      Take in the hip measurement, and get a slimmer cut (where you put in "body shade" on the order form). Also lessen the shoulders by an inch or so. Again go to a tailor.

    Edit: I don't know if it's just the way you're standing, but it seems that one shoulder is sloped more than the other, you should take this into consideration on your next measurements if this is the case.
     


  4. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior Member

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    agree with LAGuy - shoulders should be narrower - the yoke is probably too big. Baggy around the chest and waist, and your right shoulder looks to be definitely lower than your left.
     


  5. BjornH

    BjornH Senior Member

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    I would go as far as to take at least two inches of the shoulders but wash the shirt a few times before final decision.

    I also second the rest of the comments.

    One trick to find if one shoulder is higher that the other. Put on a coat and leave it unbuttoned. Stand naturally and notice weather the buttons and the buttonholes of the jacket match up. If the button is lower or higher than the buttonhole it indicates that one shoulder is higher.

    I'll put dobby 152 on my 'maybe' list.

    Björn
     


  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Perhaps you should re-take a photograph, with the shirt ironed, buttoned at the collar, and standing at a more symmetrical posture. Also, don't crop your hands out of the image, then we can really see how the sleeves look.

    Definitely take in the shoulder measurements, and go with a slimmer cut as Mike C. suggested.
     


  7. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Does the placket seem wide to anyone else? Proportionally, it seems too wide to me. It may be a standard size but it looks too wide for your body.

    Overall, the whole body portion is at least 2.5-3" too wide (if it were laying flat). Iron, retake the photo and it'll be easier to diagnose.
     


  8. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    I think the placket looks too wide, but might have something to do with the fact that he isn't wearing an undershirt, and so there is a contrast between the placket which we can see both sides of and his skin colo behind the shirt.
     


  9. minimal

    minimal Senior Member

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    even the most beautiful shirt can be made to look not-so if it isn't presented well. so i think you should iron your shirt first, and maybe wear a t-shirt to "punch up" the white. and let us see your cuffs, too.

    how about a close-up of the material, maybe at a cuff or collar? i'm sure it looks great, just would like to see what we're missing.

    best regards.
     


  10. christian

    christian Senior Member

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    It might help if somebody could post a picture of a dress shirt that fits perfectly so we can compare the two.
     


  11. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Gregory,
    Why don't you post the measurements you used. It will help give me a better sense of how far you mismeasured. The shoulders are way too wide. Perhaps by as much as 4 inches. I also agree that reducung the torso measurments by 2 to 3 inches would be appropriate. Style wise, you'd be better off with a narrower placket or plain front. Also a breast pocket would make your chest look more defined since you are pretty small in the chest. A shorter collar point would also make you look bigger. Basically you need your shirt to add bulk and lkength to your body and right now it isn't doing that because your measurements were way off.
     


  12. FIHTies

    FIHTies Distinguished Member

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    Hey...Dont get upset... Other than all the above mentioned issues, the shirt looks PERFECT. [​IMG] But seriousely, unless you have really small cuffs, or truly long "piano" fingers It looks like the sleeves might be a bit long. The cuffs havent even started where the pic ends which would place your fingertips at about just above your knees. This is easily remedied by the way with narrower shoulders so the sleeve starts higher up. JJF
     


  13. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Yes, I agree with FIHTies that a better shoulder measurement would do much to rectify the sleeve length problem that may exist. I wouldn't feel too bad about the shirt -- though it doesn't fit like a custom job, it's still a great fabric and is serviceable. Plus, by rectifying measurements now, you can just get perfect shirts in the future. You place small orders, which is good because it allows you to make mistakes without too much financial cost.
     


  14. gregory

    gregory Senior Member

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    Thank you all for the wonderful support. All your observations make perfect sense and I agree with them. Though I frankly think the problem lies in my body rather than in my shirts [​IMG]
     


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