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Fabric Quality and Brand Names


Dec 21, 2010
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I am fairly new to buying made to measure, custom, and bespoke suits. I was wondering, how can I tell which fabrics are the better quality ones? My tailor has actually shown me a couple of swatch booklets that have names on them, I have never heard of any of these names. Obviously some are more expensive than others, but I was wondering if there was a way to tell which ones are better quality?

I was also curious if anyone knew if it is possible to find out which fabrics high end brands and custom fitters use? Do they advertise that they use a specific brand of fabric? Is there anyway that I could find out which fabrics they use so that I could tell my tailor to make me a suit with that specific fabric?


in stitches

Kung Joo
Spamminator Moderator
Oct 10, 2010
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i cant quite address all of this but here is some info. there are many things to consider such as weight of the fabric/thread count... a fine wool may be very soft to touch but also will be more fragile thus not good for every day wear. you must decide first what you are going to be using the suit for. as far as fabric makers the list is too long and each has its followers and detractors, pick a good well established maker that you like and you should be fine, any good SA will be able to walk you through the process, you wont get it right on your first try but dont be dicouraged finding your style is a journey that should be fun and eyeopening

dont be offended by snarky comments that are sure to come


Senior Member
Jun 23, 2010
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I don't think it's possible to overstate the importance of fabric in a bespoke garment. Given the choice between RTW with great fabric and bespoke with mediocre fabric, I'd take the RTW every time.

It's hard for a novice to differentiate fabric quality from merely handling swatches in a swatch book. Fortunately, there are certain mills which have built a reputation among experts for consistent excellence, so by sticking to them you can't go wrong.

For shirts, look for David & John Anderson, Thomas Mason, and Alumo

For suits, look for Lesser, Harrisons, Smith Woolens, Minnis, and Scabal

Trust me, don't compromise on fabric to save a few bucks on your shirt or suit. It might seem sensible and frugal at the moment, but as soon as you acquire garments with proper fabric and experience the improved drape, body, softness, color, etc., you will be stuck with a bunch of second-class items that you never reach for.

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