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Fabric need for a coat & vest

Classic Car

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My size is 40 short. I like to CMT a sport coat with vest (front size only). How much fabric do I need? Assume the fabric is plain colour.
 

Despos

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2 3/4 yards of 60" wide cloth. Get 3yards to be safe. To make sure it can be cut one way.
 

Classic Car

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Please explain a bit more on "To make sure it can be cut one way."
What happen if not?

Originally Posted by Despos
2 3/4 yards of 60" wide cloth. Get 3yards to be safe. To make sure it can be cut one way.
 

Fishball

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Originally Posted by Classic Car
Please explain a bit more on "To make sure it can be cut one way."
What happen if not?


Some time a tailor will cut the vest at the "other way" (turn 90 degree), if it was plain color, it save some cloth.
 

Despos

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Fine cloth has to have the pattern pieces laid on the cloth in one direction, meaning the top of the pattern piece is on top on all pieces. Sometimes with small amounts of cloth a piece of the pattern will be turned in the other direction to make it fit. The result is a difference in shade or tone of the color as light will reflect differently on this piece as the direction of the weave is reversed.
Sometimes you get this instruction on the ticket from the maker, saying "must be cut one way"
Especially important when you cut the trimmings. Cutter marks the direction of the cloth on the trimming pieces to make sure pocket facings and flaps don't get reversed. Result would render the flaps visibly lighter or darker than the jacket.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Originally Posted by Fishball
Some time a tailor will cut the vest at the "other way" (turn 90 degree), if it was plain color, it save some cloth.

180 degrees maybe, not 90; 90 would mean cutting on the cross-grain rather than the straight which is not what you want.
 

George

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Originally Posted by Despos
Fine cloth has to have the pattern pieces laid on the cloth in one direction, meaning the top of the pattern piece is on top on all pieces. Sometimes with small amounts of cloth a piece of the pattern will be turned in the other direction to make it fit. The result is a difference in shade or tone of the color as light will reflect differently on this piece as the direction of the weave is reversed. Sometimes you get this instruction on the ticket from the maker, saying "must be cut one way" Especially important when you cut the trimmings. Cutter marks the direction of the cloth on the trimming pieces to make sure pocket facings and flaps don't get reversed. Result would render the flaps visibly lighter or darker than the jacket.
I think H&S actually put this advice on their fabric books.
 

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