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Eye Candy for fellow shoe aficionado's

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by A Harris, Nov 5, 2004.

  1. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just took some pics of our most recent samples, for the new website which we hope to have up sometime soon. I thought I'd share: "Medallion" oxford, cognac, U last [​IMG] "Old English" cap-toe oxford, antique cognac, U last [​IMG] "Budapest" wingtip oxford, red-cognac, U last [​IMG] "Budapest" wingtip oxford, oxblood, U last [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] cap-toe full boot, antique cognac, U last [​IMG] Chukka boot w/double sole, oxblood, U - last. My new favorite shoes.. [​IMG] Norweger, antique cognac, P2 last [​IMG] whole-cut shoe w/medallion, black, P2 last [​IMG] plain wingtip, reversed suede w/clear sole finish, P2 last, [​IMG] And last but not least, a preview of some new styles: [​IMG] That 3-eyelet derby is amazing. I'm definitely going to have to order myself a pair of those... Also, keep your eye on the buy/sell section, as we will be doing a sample sale soon. Sorry though, we won't be selling any of these particular shoes [​IMG]
     
  2. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Don't particularly care for the shapes, really. Save the P2 last whole-cut, which is a fine shape. The others have too squared a toe, and too severe an arch for my tastes, though if I recall correctly, the first pics you posted could've come straight from Apparel Arts photos of the 30s.

    I am curious though of the Hungarian tradition of shoemaking. Was it prevalent before the Soviet occupation and during the government before that period? I am surprised that it survived through that and up through now, as it must've been difficult for a bespoke art to survive during that time (cf. certain applied arts in Russia).

    Thank you for any information that you can offer.

    H.
     
  3. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    Just found their site. Most of my questions answered there, though I do wish the timeline was a bit more specific. It's an interesting story of the preservation (and revival) of an apparel art.
     
  4. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Nice shoes Andrew, especially the 3 eyelet: a Vasserrier  [​IMG] Originally posted by Horace:
    Horace, have you seen some bespokes from Cleverley or Lobb Paris? These Vass' definitely capture the lines and look of a bespoke.
     
  5. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    fantastic. most of these I haven't seen at the shop in Budapest or on the vass website. please let us know when your website is up and running.
     
  6. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    I'm drooling over that 3-eyelet. The U-last is very pleasing to my eye, when did Vass start using this?

    koji
     
  7. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    Wonderful shoe pornography. Yes, the three eyelet derby is amazing. Love the look and the color.
     
  8. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    I love this - this goes into my HOF (File->Save Page As...)

    B
     
  9. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    A Harris - quick question:

    The suede Chukka, why does it have a v-notch on the back? Its interesting looking, I dont think I have ever seen something like that before? Is it merely for aesthetics, or does it serve some purpose, comfortwise perhaps?
     
  10. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    Andrew:

    Thanks for the pics.

    Are those new shoes on the U last, or a new last? The 3 eyelet looks very nice (as do virtually all of the others.).
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Andrew, why do you call those wingtips on the "U" last "Budapests"? I thought that the Budapest was a specific last with a rounded, high toe box?
     
  12. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    Discount for board members???  I really like those chukka's too (the oxblood ones). In fact, I like them so much I'll be going to Sky Valet in DC tomorrow to ask about what their price would be to order a pair.
     
  13. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    nice i really like the "Budapest" wingtips and the chukkas

    where are these available and what is the price range?
     
  14. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    there are at least two terms "Budapest" (and that particular shoe fits neither of them): The last Vass calls "Budapest" is the traditional high toe box style used throughout Hungary, Austria and Bavaria. Here is a typical "Haferlschuh" the traditional dress and work shoe in Austria and Bavaria: [​IMG] Not only is the toe box extremely squared, it even rises. This is to prevent the toes becoming wedged while walking downhill. Traditionally all Austrian and Hungarian shoemakers have adopted variations of that shape. Ludwig Reiter calls it a "Viennese last". The generic style term "Budapester" (used in German speaking countries) refers to a full brogue wing-tip derby (blucher), a style that is without doubt the signature shoe of the Vass workshop. So why that shoe is called "Budapest", I don't know, as it is neither on a Budapest style nor a Budapest last. Probably artistic licence from Mr Vass. Every child needs a name.
     
  15. jester

    jester Senior member

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    Those are some very fine shoes indeed.

    What is the story with pricing and availability?
     
  16. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Andrew can speak for himself, but I believe that he has previously told me that Vass calls all full brogues, regardless of the last and regardless of whether they're bals or bluchers, Budapests. As bengal-stripe has written, this may be Vass's rhetorical flourish, but there it is.
     
  17. montecristo#4

    montecristo#4 Senior member

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    When are those "new styles" going to be available?
     
  18. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    If the prices are not going to be increased (hopefully), then I think the Vass boots are about $100 more than regular shoes. So, I think that puts the boots at about $725 or $750.

    Regarding the U-last, I also have thought perhaps it was too severely pointy. The picture of the chukka boot doesn't look too pointy, though it has the U-last. But that may just be due to the side photography. I have seen Vass w/U-last in person, and they are definitely a "cut-above." They are very elegant both in the toe and in the waist/arch area. They are also the opposite of stodgy, and may be too pointy for some people. We'll see how the boots look....
     
  19. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Yes, one thing about the Vass shoes is that pictures simply don't do them justice.

    koji
     
  20. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When I visited Budapest in early 2003, they weren't selling it yet (though I did see a prototype) so, it's been around for 1-1.5 yrs .
    I believe it is meant to keep the back of the boot from chafing the back of your ankle while walking.
    They are on the U last. It's possible it is a newer, less severe version of the U, but I can't say for sure as I have not seen them in person yet. Â
    As the guys said, Vass uses "Budapest" as a name for their signature model, as well as a generic term for a wingtip shoe.
    The shoes are available at Louis Boston. On the U last, they carry a wingtip derby, a Norwegian laceup, and a Norwegian penny loafer similar to these: [​IMG] They also carry a burgandy penny loafer on the Peter last, a shell cordovan wingtip on the Banana last, and a black shell cordovan full boot with a rubber sole (think couture combat boot.) Prices run appx. $800-$1150, and just under 2K for the shell cordovan boot.
    As soon as we can convince stores to stock them.. It's a lot harder than you might imagine. They would rather sell RTW Lobb at the same price-point, even though Vass is a Lattanzi-quality shoe at a Lobb price. I understand why - shoes, like most of the clothing business, are still very much a name game. Louis in an exception to that rule - they prefer to pioneer new brands, as the Louis name is enough to sell whatever they stock. Also, if you are interested in special-orders, Gabor will be accompanying Darren Beaman for his US visits, and will be taking orders then.
    I ordered those boots with a double sole for that reason. It really balances the shape in my opinion, especially as they are a size 13.
    Thanks Koji. Very true.
     

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