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Extended Shoulder Supremacy

joacimbylehn

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Yeah, I find both Carl and Ethan very inspirational always.
Balance is key, I think your first example from The Armoury are great examples of how it can really work.
Here are some examples I think are very good.
Also John Goldberger is the only one I've seen other than Ralph who can pull the Ralph look off.
Franco.jpggoldberger.jpgjake.jpgpinstripe.jpgshoulder.jpgtommaso.jpg
 

Sammm

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I think Armoury-era Jake Grantham wore extended shoulders, and Anglo-Italian-era Jake wears a much closer shoulder, is that correct? I think both look good on him.
 
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joacimbylehn

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Yeah that's my feeling too. AI is closer and I think their first models even had a bit of rollino.
 

Sammm

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Yeah that's my feeling too. AI is closer and I think their first models even had a bit of rollino.
From what I understand (seeing them measure a guy in store) they sometimes use rollino and/or spalla camicia as stylistic options to play with, depending on the person’s style.
 

Bromley

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I think an extended shoulder looks better across the board, but I think if it looks severe or draws attention to itself, it's most likely on someone with square shoulders.

Also worth mentioning how an extended shoulder, in conjunction with a few other details of fit, can help minimize the appearance of Beer Belly. And how nicely, too, the sleeve hangs when it's not fighting the bicep at the shoulder.
 

joacimbylehn

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Agreed especially on the bicep at the shoulder thing. That’s actually one of the things me and my tailor discussed making up the latest jacket and why he made the shoulders slightly extended. Looking at it now though, 6 months in, I can hint a slight collapse which when seen cannot be unseen.. might discuss lifting the shoulder slightly. Thoughts?
DBAE652D-1D18-4739-B587-C25A44AE46F6.jpeg
 

UrbanComposition

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One way to extend shoulders is by literally extending them from seam to seam (like yours). But you might want to ask your tailor if he’s familiar with spalla mappina (at least that’s what most southern Italian tailors call it). Pressing the shoulder seam of the sleeve back out, in addition to adding fullness to the sleevehead, can give similar extension to the shoulder line without extending the shoulders...if that makes any sense.
 

dieworkwear

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OK, so far we have:

1. Extended, soft shoulders get droopy around the ends. Assuming you don't want a very padded shoulder, this is something you can expect either fairly soon after buying the coat or in the long run as the structure gets mushy.

2. My friend says that, even before the ends get droopy, extended shoulders look bad when you move your arms. And because we're talking about clothes on the internet, this issue doesn't seem as obvious because we're looking at clothes through jpegs. In real life, an extended shoulder doesn't look as good.

I think the first point is fair. Depending on how far you go out, and the structure inside, it seems like many of these do get droopy, especially over time.

I don't know yet how I feel about the second point.

I also don't know how much people in real life would notice points one or two. Whereas I think the pear-shaped figure or less-than-flattering silhouette is much more readily apparent. Some of iammatt and maomao's coats look a little droopy at the ends in photos. But the times I've seen them in real life, I can't say I really noticed.

I will say that the extension is a little more obvious when you're sitting down with your shoulders hunched forward because the shoulder line doesn't move as well with you. But just never sit down in front of people. Lord over them with your glorious shoulders. Problem solved.
 

L.deJong

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You can see the amount of padding necessary to support the extension without drooping. Nice coat.
Thanks coming from you Thar's a real compliment.
There is indeed a fair bit of padding needed to support this extension.
To be fair my tailor is old-school Milanese so he doesn't do anything else.
To old to do the collar by hand though, not that I can feel a real difference.

I also commissioned this extended shoulder after reading it in @dieworkwear's blog.
My bespoke grey suit has extended and I liked the look.

I think there is an added benefit, I feel less constricted.
 

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