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Extended Shoulder Supremacy

comrade

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This thread induced me to stop what I was doing- I was looking for an excuse, and go
to my closet and try on jackets. I am confused. Most of my jackets have little to virtually no
padding except an old Battistoni from Barney's which definitely has an extended shoulder.
The rest, for the most part, seem closer to the first Ring Jacket example.
I have what I will charitably call a "post-athletic build" broad square shoulders, a big chest
and a much larger mid-section than 20 years ago. IMHO extended shoulders add little for me.
That's me w/ Archivist (Mark) on the left at the SF Party 7 years ago. Is that an extended
shoulder on me.?


1204562
 
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UrbanComposition

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I remember that party, and from I recall Archivist uses Steed, who normally extends the shoulders a bit, and it looks really good on him. Yours are extended too, but like Mark’s: barely enough to perceptibly notice, which is in my mind the goal of all tailoring tweaks.
 

UrbanComposition

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I ask for extended shoulders from my Sicilian tailors, which most will begrudgingly do. I haven’t worn them enough for the shoulders to sag, but then again I rarely wear my jackets all day long, and I rotate a fairly large stockpile. I have very round delts which look silly with jackets with narrow shoulders, unless you’re into that look-at-my-muscles-through-my-suit kind of thing.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I recall Archivist uses Steed, who normally extends the shoulders a bit,
That's what I said! The friend of mine insists that Steed doesn't extend shoulders, and neither does A&S or A&S expats. Colin at A&S, for what it's worth, has described the A&S cut to me as having a draped chest and extended shoulders.

This language is obviously imprecise, but to me, the most important thing is creating a flattering silhouette. Sometimes stuff is so deconstructed and soft, it has to sit closer to the body, at which point I think it doesn't look very good on most men.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Probably no options for these shoulders for rtw then?
Sartoria Formosa has an extended shoulder, but I think this point is less important for people like you, who already have a lean, athletic build. If you already have a lean, athletic build, then basically anything will give you that V-shaped silhouette causes you naturally have one. This is mostly for guys who don't already have that figure.
 

FlyingHorker

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@spiermackay do your neapolitan cut jackets have an extended shoulder? how about the regular cut? I feel like they slightly have it, but I'm not certain.
 

UrbanComposition

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That's what I said! The friend of mine insists that Steed doesn't extend shoulders, and neither does A&S or A&S expats. Colin at A&S, for what it's worth, has described the A&S cut to me as having a draped chest and extended shoulders.

This language is obviously imprecise, but to me, the most important thing is creating a flattering silhouette. Sometimes stuff is so deconstructed and soft, it has to sit closer to the body, at which point I think it doesn't look very good on most men.
From what I understand, they don’t extend the shoulders past the shoulder line, but since most shoulders are round, there is leeway — closer to the clavicle, or farther out.
Probably no options for these shoulders for rtw then?
Some RTW makers make a larger sleevehead, and others press out the sleeve seam (where it connects to the body) so it “flares out.” Not precisely extended, but it gives a similar effect.
Then there’s old school extended shoulders, which I think are awesome. It’s definitely a look, but it can be anything from business shark Gordon Gecko to David Bowie. It really is a versatile, fluid thing.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Ha. Everybody loves it but me.
You have naturally broad shoulders. My friend, who argued against me, also has naturally broad shoulders. You don't see it because you don't have to deal with the problems of normal shouldered folk.

This is broad shoulder privilege.
 

comrade

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This is broad shoulder privilege.
[/QUOTE]

I guess I am doubly blesssed. I can also make a tie dimple on the first try.
 

joacimbylehn

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A slight extension with help of some light padding can be very helpful indeed, but I feel more and more it’s coming to extremes and looks collapsed to begin with, which just doesn’t look good in my eyes.
C25928E5-6B80-4A03-A151-E9BBBC6EC91A.jpegAE7C9190-3AAD-40DA-811A-1E0A036AA78A.jpegE7A7700D-A749-407C-A58C-20C6B96BD57E.jpeg
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Yea, those are a bit too soft and extended for me. I think if you go that far out, you need a bit more structure.

Ethan always looks cool regardless though.
 

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