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Extended Shoulder Supremacy

mossrockss

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Honestly, I find the fit of that jacket close to perfect. And no, your head doesn't look tiny at all. Who was the tailor? The lapels and button position are really nice.
Polo Ralph Lauren, made in USA era. I think i nailed it down to '94 through researching the manufacturers and labels they used at the time, but it might've been earlier (don't think it was any later). it could be worn as a 6x1, but i've always hated the 6x1 configuration more than probably anything else in the menswear world, so i was happy it looked good buttoned at the second button.
 

othertravel

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Polo Ralph Lauren, made in USA era. I think i nailed it down to '94 through researching the manufacturers and labels they used at the time, but it might've been earlier (don't think it was any later). it could be worn as a 6x1, but i've always hated the 6x1 configuration more than probably anything else in the menswear world, so i was happy it looked good buttoned at the second button.
Agree with @aristoi bcn

It looks like a classic straight/extended shoulder. Doesn't look odd on your frame.
 

Substanceoverstyle

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Let me start by really appreciating the way you try to get your point across: The way you use these images in explaining the small details (especially on a first glance, or for someone without an eye trained in menswear) works very well. It helps in making the thread feel more open to productive exchanges.

Still, my first inclination is to say it just depends on personal style choices, and less on body type (although that does certainly play a role). Which feels like a lame answer in these type of discussions, but I genuinely feel that for a lot of guys you can do both, unless your body tends toward an extreme - like very narrow shoulders, or exceptionally large hips. Your armory example with Jan shows this. The jackets clearly both fit him nicely, but one is more relaxed, laid-back and flows more to the shape of the body (and is hence probably more comfortable, another factor to take into account) while the other makes him look bigger, giving him more presence, formality and masculinity. I can imagine that depending on the occasion you go for either, but for his body I can't really say one is better than the other. EDIT: He's also wearing a sportcoat on the first pic, and a suit on the other (or so it seems), which is also something to consider here.

On a side note, your description of athletic feels a bit to hasty. I somewhat fit your description, but I wouldn't call myself athletic. An athletic build for me would refer to not just broad shoulders, but also a bigger chest (most notably them pecs, which I most definitely do not have in abundance).
 

bdavro23

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Here's a great example of what an extended shoulder can do for you. This video is a little over 4 minutes long, but for the purposes of this thread, you only need to watch the first two minutes. The video is of two Ring Jacket models at The Amoury.



Here's the 184, which is I think is RJ's most popular model. It's a soft, very lightly padded shoulder with a shoulder seam that ends on the shoulder bone. Here's Jan from The Armoury wearing it, although I think you get a better sense of the jacket in the video.


View attachment 1204369



Here's the same man wearing The Armoury's Model 3, which is also made by Ring Jacket. The shoulder here is a little more extended. It's also a touch more padded, I think, which is necessary because without any support, an extended shoulder would obviously just flop over on your body.

View attachment 1204370


Granted, this is just one body type, and it may not be reflective of you. But to me, Jan looks so much better in the Model 3. There's a touch more room in the chest, an extended shoulder, and just generally more shape to the jacket. It gives him a V-shaped figure and has a very nice, masculine silhouette.
I think it is apparent that what we are really talking about here is degree. The jacket in the Armoury video might have a VERY slight extension to the shoulder, but I would say that it is within the margin of error for a clean shoulder measurement. The chest, while perhaps a touch bigger is again, within a tolerance of being clean. Comparing this jacket to the Mariano Rubinacci jacket or the picture of Ralph presents entirely different things.

Perhaps it is simply a matter of perspective, but to me with the exception of the Ring jacket, most of the pictures you posted look like the jackets could fit better through the shoulder. As I stated earlier, I suppose this is why they make different styles...
 

dieworkwear

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I think it is apparent that what we are really talking about here is degree. The jacket in the Armoury video might have a VERY slight extension to the shoulder, but I would say that it is within the margin of error for a clean shoulder measurement. The chest, while perhaps a touch bigger is again, within a tolerance of being clean. Comparing this jacket to the Mariano Rubinacci jacket or the picture of Ralph presents entirely different things.

Perhaps it is simply a matter of perspective, but to me with the exception of the Ring jacket, most of the pictures you posted look like the jackets could fit better through the shoulder. As I stated earlier, I suppose this is why they make different styles...
What about Nathan Fielder?

1204419
 

FlyingHorker

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There is a limit, though, and I'm not even referencing those zoot suits caricatures.
I have a large head. Here's a jacket I had a few years ago that fit me very well, but had very wide extended shoulders (it was from 1994). It makes my head look tiny.
This is probably your best looking jacket.

No, doesn't really make your head look tiny.
 

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