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Extended Shoulder Supremacy

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I was talking with a friend today about extended shoulders. He thinks they're bad, an artifice, and ugly. I think they're not only good, but almost everyone should get an extended shoulder. You should have an extended shoulder. Your mother should have an extended shoulder. Your children should have extended shoulders.

The logic is this: few men have naturally broad shoulders and slim waists. You have to have an athletic build. Most men are chubby, pear-shaped, stick-like, and every other shape except athletic. (I say this without judgment because, my non-athletic friends, I stand with you).

To be honest, even some broad shoulder men look good with extended shoulders. But they are still in the minority in terms of body type.

An extended shoulder gives you the illusion of a V-shaped figure. If it's an artifice, it's a good one, and a compromise between the ugliness of our natural selves and a bit of fakery that, realistically, no one in real life will notice.

The friend of mine said that you can't have a soft shoulder that's extended. I strongly disagree. Here's iammatt in a Rubi jacket that has extended shoulders. Notice how the shoulder seam dips.


1204117



Rubi's extended shoulder is probably the most obvious I've seen because they do a very soft shoulder. Here's one that has a more "straight" shoulder line


1204118



That's maomao, who asks for an extended shoulder on almost all his jackets. Most of his coats look like this (he's also naturally broad-shouldered, so the effect is a little more aggressive).


1204119



Again, this isn't really fair because maomao already has a v-shaped figure. The model below doesn't, but look at this coat:

1204116



Ignore the short sleeve, short coat, and high buttoning point. Focus just on the chest and shoulders. Wouldn't he look better with a bit more room in the chest and an extended shoulder line?

And here's Mariano Rubinacci in an extended shoulder. The Anderson & Sheppard vanity book is full of examples similar to this, although my friend contends the shoulders are extended because the wearers have shrunk from old age and they commissioned their clothes decades ago. This may be true, I don't know, but I think the silhouette looks more flattering. I assume Mariano at his age doesn't have such a natural v-shaped figure, and if he does, I will feel very bad about myself.


1204120



The only good argument I've heard against extended shoulders came from a bespoke tailor, who told me that, over time, the end of the shoulder can collapse from gravity. This makes sense to me, but it also seems like a small price to pay. And anyway, if it really bothers you, you can purchase new clothes.

Ultimately, I don't understand why anyone would disagree with this obviously better point of view. Most men should wear extended shoulders. So I'm starting this thread to root out the narrow shoulder folk. Who are you? Reveal yourself so we can fight.
 

JJ Katz

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I should think that it is also a matter of degree. An excessively extended shoulder and/or too soft one or one with very pronounced roping won’t look good. But I agree that a little extension past the deltoid looks good.
 

steveabdn

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I fall into the broad shouldered bracket and for me, I prefer a soft shoulder that is closely fitted. Just my preference.

I can't argue with any of the logic you've listed above, that it does create a (normally) desirable silhouette, but for me, I feel ridiculous.

Extended shoulder is good for most and definitely falls under the umbrella of "classic" styling
 

Andy57

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I was talking with a friend today about extended shoulders. He thinks they're bad, an artifice, and ugly. I think they're not only good, but almost everyone should get an extended shoulder. You should have an extended shoulder. Your mother should have an extended shoulder. Your children should have extended shoulders.
I can't imagine why anyone would think an extended shoulder is ugly. I pretty much agree with your argument.

I should think that it is also a matter of degree. An excessively extended shoulder and/or too soft one or one with very pronounced roping won’t look good.
I couldn't disagree more. My Edward Sexton jacket, in Edward's aggressive house style has pronounced shoulder roping. I look at and wonder why I didn't have all my jackets made this way. If I want a close-fitting, rounded shoulder, I'll buy a cardigan.
 

bdavro23

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I can't imagine why anyone would think an extended shoulder is ugly. I pretty much agree with your argument.


I couldn't disagree more. My Edward Sexton jacket, in Edward's aggressive house style has pronounced shoulder roping. I look at and wonder why I didn't have all my jackets made this way. If I want a close-fitting, rounded shoulder, I'll buy a cardigan.
About half of my wardrobe consists of jackets with an extended shoulder. My newer stuff is softer and without extension, though I suppose it is only rounded in context. I much prefer the new stuff, so I suppose its good there are different options for you and I to choose from :)
 

bdavro23

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I was talking with a friend today about extended shoulders. He thinks they're bad, an artifice, and ugly. I think they're not only good, but almost everyone should get an extended shoulder. You should have an extended shoulder. Your mother should have an extended shoulder. Your children should have extended shoulders.

The logic is this: few men have naturally broad shoulders and slim waists. You have to have an athletic build. Most men are chubby, pear-shaped, stick-like, and every other shape except athletic. (I say this without judgment because, my non-athletic friends, I stand with you).

To be honest, even some broad shoulder men look good with extended shoulders. But they are still in the minority in terms of body type.

An extended shoulder gives you the illusion of a V-shaped figure. If it's an artifice, it's a good one, and a compromise between the ugliness of our natural selves and a bit of fakery that, realistically, no one in real life will notice.

The friend of mine said that you can't have a soft shoulder that's extended. I strongly disagree. Here's iammatt in a Rubi jacket that has extended shoulders. Notice how the shoulder seam dips.


View attachment 1204117


Rubi's extended shoulder is probably the most obvious I've seen because they do a very soft shoulder. Here's one that has a more "straight" shoulder line


View attachment 1204118


That's maomao, who asks for an extended shoulder on almost all his jackets. Most of his coats look like this (he's also naturally broad-shouldered, so the effect is a little more aggressive).


View attachment 1204119


Again, this isn't really fair because maomao already has a v-shaped figure. The model below doesn't, but look at this coat:

View attachment 1204116


Ignore the short sleeve, short coat, and high buttoning point. Focus just on the chest and shoulders. Wouldn't he look better with a bit more room in the chest and an extended shoulder line?

And here's Mariano Rubinacci in an extended shoulder. The Anderson & Sheppard vanity book is full of examples similar to this, although my friend contends the shoulders are extended because the wearers have shrunk from old age and they commissioned their clothes decades ago. This may be true, I don't know, but I think the silhouette looks more flattering. I assume Mariano at his age doesn't have such a natural v-shaped figure, and if he does, I will feel very bad about myself.


View attachment 1204120


The only good argument I've heard against extended shoulders came from a bespoke tailor, who told me that, over time, the end of the shoulder can collapse from gravity. This makes sense to me, but it also seems like a small price to pay. And anyway, if it really bothers you, you can purchase new clothes.

Ultimately, I don't understand why anyone would disagree with this obviously better point of view. Most men should wear extended shoulders. So I'm starting this thread to root out the narrow shoulder folk. Who are you? Reveal yourself so we can fight.
Since this is the internet and we all get to have really important opinions about things, here's mine: When I see a man wearing a jacket like Mariano's, especially when they are a bit older, it always looks to me like they are wearing a nice jacket that fit them well 10 years ago, before they lost a bit of muscle. I actually notice this a lot where I am and now I'm worried I wont be able to tell if everyone is really well dressed/ Rubinacci customers or they just dont work out as much as they used to...
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Since this is the internet and we all get to have really important opinions about things, here's mine: When I see a man wearing a jacket like Mariano's, especially when they are a bit older, it always looks to me like they are wearing a nice jacket that fit them well 10 years ago, before they lost a bit of muscle. I actually notice this a lot where I am and now I'm worried I wont be able to tell if everyone is really well dressed/ Rubinacci customers or they just dont work out as much as they used to...
This is good!!! Why would this be a bad thing? It looks great when a guy looks like he's wearing a bespoke suit he bought like thirty years ago.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Here's a great example of what an extended shoulder can do for you. This video is a little over 4 minutes long, but for the purposes of this thread, you only need to watch the first two minutes. The video is of two Ring Jacket models at The Amoury.



Here's the 184, which is I think is RJ's most popular model. It's a soft, very lightly padded shoulder with a shoulder seam that ends on the shoulder bone. Here's Jan from The Armoury wearing it, although I think you get a better sense of the jacket in the video.


1204369




Here's the same man wearing The Armoury's Model 3, which is also made by Ring Jacket. The shoulder here is a little more extended. It's also a touch more padded, I think, which is necessary because without any support, an extended shoulder would obviously just flop over on your body.

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Granted, this is just one body type, and it may not be reflective of you. But to me, Jan looks so much better in the Model 3. There's a touch more room in the chest, an extended shoulder, and just generally more shape to the jacket. It gives him a V-shaped figure and has a very nice, masculine silhouette.
 

aristoi bcn

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I have jackets from the same neapolitan tailor, all with shirt sleeve. Some have an extended shoulders, some have not. Depending on the day, I prefer one or another.
 

mossrockss

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I learned from trying on different jackets that the narrow, bald shoulder that became popular 10 years ago (like what lbm1911 does) isn't flattering at all. An extended shoulder seam, even without padding but just a little bit of support from another layer of canvas, makes all the difference. I have pretty broad shoulders for my frame, but even on me it's noticeable.
 

mossrockss

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I couldn't disagree more. My Edward Sexton jacket, in Edward's aggressive house style has pronounced shoulder roping. I look at and wonder why I didn't have all my jackets made this way. If I want a close-fitting, rounded shoulder, I'll buy a cardigan.
There is a limit, though, and I'm not even referencing those zoot suits caricatures.
I have a large head. Here's a jacket I had a few years ago that fit me very well, but had very wide extended shoulders (it was from 1994). It makes my head look tiny.
IMG_6077.jpg
IMG_4693.jpg
 

usctrojans31

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About half of my wardrobe consists of jackets with an extended shoulder. My newer stuff is softer and without extension, though I suppose it is only rounded in context. I much prefer the new stuff, so I suppose its good there are different options for you and I to choose from :)
This. I prefer optionality. My Cifonelli has the extended, structured and roped shoulder. Some days I want it. Some days I want my softer Neapolitan stuff.
 

aristoi bcn

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There is a limit, though, and I'm not even referencing those zoot suits caricatures.
I have a large head. Here's a jacket I had a few years ago that fit me very well, but had very wide extended shoulders (it was from 1994). It makes my head look tiny.
Honestly, I find the fit of that jacket close to perfect. And no, your head doesn't look tiny at all. Who was the tailor? The lapels and button position are really nice.
 

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