Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The Louche, Sep 11, 2012.
Hmmm, I thought this thread was about something else.
I thought it was about the waist on shoes too Ed
Yes at first i also thought about those creepy asian men...
Bumping this. I'm troubled by this phenomenon on some jackets that I otherwise think fit well.
Most jackets these days have the buttoning point too high, and that has nothing to do with how trim the cut is. In fact, if you button near the bellybutton, you can bring the waist in further without causing pulling or immobilisation. It also keeps the quarters closed, and covers the pant waist.
The troubling phenomenon, particularly with online MTM it seems, is the stupidly high buttoning point which helps no man. Making the bottom half of your suit long and flared is not how to look masculine (it makes you look pregnant!). I think this may have led to the shrinking jacket length, which is hardly a solution.
The end result is fugly, and unnecessary.
Not tricky to find an example without "hands in the pocket" - just need to go to the HUGO website
It just looks sloppy.
Unfortunately, one sees such "suits" also in professional settings. Then, I always hope that he wearer will finally take off his jacket. However, then they usually wear extra-triple-super-slim-fit shirts tailored for a close-to-body fit when standing, which implies that the nipples will squeeze through the fabric and the fabric will pull heavily on the buttons when they are sitting. Then I always hope that the wearer will put on his jacket. And that is when a vicious circle starts ...
I suspect it's the other way around--shorter jackets led to higher buttoning points. At least in Asia, tailors starting cutting jackets short in order to compensate for Asians' proportionally shorter legs. Makes the legs look a bit longer. Also makes it look like they are wearing a woman's jacket.
I think that high-rise trousers are not incompatible with a slim cut. Slim-fitting trousers worn at or above the natural waist were pretty standard during the 19th century.
I agree. Sean Connery as James Bond wore fairly trim suits (although I guess not by today's standards, but I think it's fair to say everyone would like to have a suit like his) and he wore high rise trousers.
This issue has me in a tizzy now, as I realize that I've had most of my suits over the last 5-6 years (I'm 30) made with medium rise trousers that allow for a slight peep of shirt and tie (thankfully I had side tabs put on most, so no belt buckle shows).
I should note, however, that I've found a few examples of men that are generally considered to be good dressers—even SF-approved—exhibiting this phenomenon, such as Matt Lauer, and (suited, recent) Alec Baldwin and Justin Timberlake. I even saw Flusser exposing some shirt!
Justin Timberlake is anything but SF approved, no idea about the other two.
I knew this would be a response. I specifically indicated that this is the recent, suited JT, who is by all measures decently attired. And yes, there have been many on SF that concur.
It's ugly, as is most modern "slim" suits.
Great Liverano jacket! I'm more and more fond of this cut, going to try it in the future. Could you post (or send me) a higher resolution photograph and share who is the bespeaker?
Some of the issue is caused by the manufacturers cutting "crooked" coats that cause the fronts to open this way below the button. The button position will have little, if any effect on this issue. Why change the style/cut of the trouser to correct or compensate for an issue in the jacket?
Nope, not even the recently suited JT is 'SF approved'. He still has the awful habit of undoing his tie a bit and unbuttoning his first shirt button in an attempt to look edgy. Besides, we really shouldn't give a shit about what those kind of celebrities are wearing, as none of them is known for being well dressed.
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