Exposed waist: Your general thoughts

[The Louche]

What are your thoughts on exposed shirt/tie/waistband below the buttoning point on today’s slimmer suits with lower-rise trousers?

Flusser seems to hate this, and I understand that it has long been a faux pas with formal and semi-formal wear. But it seems rather unavoidable with a trim suit—your only mitigation strategies would be higher-rise trousers (incongruent with the overall look), or a vest (not always wanted or needed; presents fit problems of its own w/o luxury of bespoke).

What do you all think?

 

[Vintage Gent]

Not a fan. But I do prefer a somewhat fuller cut and higher rise.

 

[The Louche]

With a full-cut, I agree. But a trimmer cut is another story. ...

 

[RDiaz]

A rise that reaches the bottom button of the coat isn't incompatible with trim cut, and no shirt/tie should show... pants worn lower than that just throw off the proportions of the jacket IMO.

 

[The Louche]



A rise that reaches the bottom button of the coat isn't incompatible with trim cut, and no shirt/tie should show... pants worn lower than that just throw off the proportions of the jacket IMO.

You are correct, but the bottom button isn't buttoned. This means that a rise that reaches such point will only prevent shirt from showing if the quarters are also relatively closed, something that many forum members have not been too fond of in the past if memory serves me.

I

 

[RDiaz]

The quarters usually start to open more aggresively below the bottom button. So even though it's not buttoned, shirt and tie should still not show when standing straight. If they do, there isn't enough space for your lower torso in the jacket and the quarters are opening more than they were meant to. Some people like that look, though.

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]

Can you post a pic? I'm not smart enough to grasp this.

 

[Svenn]

You need a fairly low buttoning point if you want to ensure no tie or shirt shows between the fronts.

 

[texas_jack]

No, you just need a higher rise.

 

[Despos]

No, you just want to shape the edge of the fronts differently and fit the jacket for a bit of overlap on the lower button, regardless of the trouser

 

[RDiaz]

Can you post a pic? I'm not smart enough to grasp this.

Something like this. Okay, this is not slim, but you could have more waist suppression and a trimmer cut overall and still have the quarters overlap at the lower button, without them being closed quarters.

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]

ah...agree with Sven.

 

[The Louche]

This is the exposed waist that I was originally referencing, and which I find to be endemic of so many "modern" suit cuts.

 

[RDiaz]

The hand in the pocket has much to do with how much shirt and tie is showing there, but anyways that's not just a slim jacket, that's a too tight jacket...

 

[The Louche]

^ You are right, but this picture is meant to be purely illustrative, and also demonstrates the exposed portion of waist in question.