Exposed waist: Your general thoughts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The Louche, Sep 11, 2012.

  1. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    What are your thoughts on exposed shirt/tie/waistband below the buttoning point on today’s slimmer suits with lower-rise trousers?

    Flusser seems to hate this, and I understand that it has long been a faux pas with formal and semi-formal wear. But it seems rather unavoidable with a trim suit—your only mitigation strategies would be higher-rise trousers (incongruent with the overall look), or a vest (not always wanted or needed; presents fit problems of its own w/o luxury of bespoke).

    What do you all think?
     
  2. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    Not a fan. But I do prefer a somewhat fuller cut and higher rise.
     
  3. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    With a full-cut, I agree. But a trimmer cut is another story. ...
     
  4. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    A rise that reaches the bottom button of the coat isn't incompatible with trim cut, and no shirt/tie should show... pants worn lower than that just throw off the proportions of the jacket IMO.
     
  5. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    You are correct, but the bottom button isn't buttoned. This means that a rise that reaches such point will only prevent shirt from showing if the quarters are also relatively closed, something that many forum members have not been too fond of in the past if memory serves me.

    I
     
  6. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The quarters usually start to open more aggresively below the bottom button. So even though it's not buttoned, shirt and tie should still not show when standing straight. If they do, there isn't enough space for your lower torso in the jacket and the quarters are opening more than they were meant to. Some people like that look, though.
     
  7. Cant kill da Rooster

    Cant kill da Rooster Senior member

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    Can you post a pic? I'm not smart enough to grasp this.
     
  8. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    You need a fairly low buttoning point if you want to ensure no tie or shirt shows between the fronts.
     
  9. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    No, you just need a higher rise.
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, you just want to shape the edge of the fronts differently and fit the jacket for a bit of overlap on the lower button, regardless of the trouser
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  11. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    [​IMG]



    Something like this. Okay, this is not slim, but you could have more waist suppression and a trimmer cut overall and still have the quarters overlap at the lower button, without them being closed quarters.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2012
  12. Cant kill da Rooster

    Cant kill da Rooster Senior member

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  13. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    This is the exposed waist that I was originally referencing, and which I find to be endemic of so many "modern" suit cuts.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    The hand in the pocket has much to do with how much shirt and tie is showing there, but anyways that's not just a slim jacket, that's a too tight jacket...
     
  15. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    ^ You are right, but this picture is meant to be purely illustrative, and also demonstrates the exposed portion of waist in question.
     

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