Experience with tightness in E. Greens?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AJL, Mar 7, 2005.

  1. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I've got a pair of Edward Green Exeters on the 808 last, and last night when I tried them on, I noticed some tightness on the outside edge of the toebox--basically my pinkie toes felt a bit jammed. I had not noticed this the first time I tried them on; perhaps my feet were a bit more swelled last night. At any rate, this is my first pair of EG's, and I'm wondering if its worth wearing them in the hopes that the leather expands a bit around my toes, or maybe I should just cut my losses and sell them now. My inclination last night was to cut and run; who wants to go around in uncomfortable shoes (they are nice, though.)? To suffer for style? [​IMG] Edit: I should point out that in all other aspects they fit rather nicely.
     


  2. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    I find that the leather on the Greens is not very forgiving. If the shoes are not comfortable right away, you are in for years of misery since the break in period for Greens can be long, if at all achieved. The EGs have to be comfortable out of the box in my experience.
     


  3. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    I haven't decided how much pain I can handle in the first few wearings, but am starting to move toward shoes that are very tight at first.

    I do know that representatives of E. Green have claimed that their shoes loosen up quite a bit, and that if a shoe isn't tight at the first wearing, it will be too big after it is broken in.  One of the fitters even suggested that a person can't know if a pair of Greens fit until the shoes have been worn "21 times."

    Of course, they are your 21 blisters.

    Bic
     


  4. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't count on the leaher stretching much. My understanding is that leather of the grade that EG uses has already been prestretched (on a box, hence "box calf," at least according to some), so there won't be a whole lot of give. At least that's been my experience.

    In any event, 808 is the narrowest of the EG lasts that I've tried. I believe that Tony has posted on AA that the fit problems with 808 were why EG developed the 888 as a replacement.
     


  5. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The 808 is almost a perfect match for me, if the shoe is an 7.5UK I'd probably make you an offer.
     


  6. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Ah, you've managed to answer a question I had before I asked it, vis a vis the fitment of 808 last. Though I've not seen them in person, I'm not crazy about 888 from pictures I've viewed. Wasn't there supposed to be an "all new, be all/end all" last, more recent than the 888? If so, has this not yet been introduced?
     


  7. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Close, but no cigar: 7E UK.

    Btw, do your feet tend toward the narrow side, particularly the forefoot?
     


  8. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not crazy about the 888, either. I can fit into an 808 E just fine, and I'll stick with it, thank you very much. Regarding the new last, you may be thinking of the 82, which was introduced last year. It's nothing at all like the 808 or 888, though. Round-toe banana shape, not square-toe. It's beautiful; but if you're looking for an alternative to the 808 and 888, it isn't going to work. The only others that I know of are the 606 and the 89, and 888 to me looks very similar to 89.
     


  9. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On the right side yes, not so much on the left. Last time I was at EG I tried on nearly every last and fit wise I felt most comfortable with the 808, the 888 was a little loose around the arc and the 202 in comparison felt like a clown shoe. The 606 might be your answer, assuming your toe is slightly wider than mine although the 888 is worth a try. Good luck in your search.
     


  10. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I do not say that new shoes should be uncomfortable (or painful) but equally they should be snug and not feel lived in and comfortable like a pair of slippers. You should not be able to get into a new pair of shoes without the help of a shoehorn.

    If the shoes are tight across the little toe (where all the creases from bending the foot will develop), that should definite ease. If the tightness is in the front of the shoe (with it's hard toe cap) they will ease to a far lesser extend. Equally the design has an impact on easing. Most forgiving are plain fronted vamps, with no stitching. Every row of stitching acts as a stay and prevents the leather from stretching. Worst is the double row of a wing tip vamp going all over the toes.

    My left foot is slightly wider and longer than my left one. If I go for ½ size bigger, everything will be too big. I find that one of the mechanical stretching devises gives me that extra millimetre or two that I need for the left foot. Do it slowly, don't try to do it all in one go, you might burst some stitches. If the shoe is a dark colour and will not stain from water, I spray them all over with lukewarm water, insert the stretcher and tighten gently. If I fear they might water-stain, I fill a rubber hot water bottle with boiling water and lay on the shoe to warm up the leather. If necessary, repeat the stretching a few times.
     


  11. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    It is in fact tight at the little toe, more specifically at the edge where it feels like its compressing the toe inwardly. Also, the shoes are a wholecut, which as you imply fits the best case scenario regarding stitching. Last night I put a generic pair of spring-loaded cedar shoes trees in them. The trees went in quite snugly, and I wonder if this might have some subtle effect in loosening up the leather?
     


  12. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    (bengal-stripe @ Mar. 08 2005,09:08) If the shoes are tight across the little toe (where all the creases from bending the foot will develop), that should definite ease. If the tightness is in the front of the shoe (with it's hard toe cap) they will ease to a far lesser extend. Equally the design has an impact on easing. Most forgiving are plain fronted vamps, with no stitching. Every row of stitching acts as a stay and prevents the leather from stretching. Worst is the double row of a wing tip vamp going all over the toes.
    It is in fact tight at the little toe, more specifically at the edge where it feels like its compressing the toe inwardly. Also, the shoes are a wholecut, which as you imply fits the best case scenario regarding stitching. Last night I put a generic pair of spring-loaded cedar shoes trees in them. The trees went in quite snugly, and I wonder if this might have some subtle effect in loosening up the leather?
    I suspect that bengal-stripe and I are getting our information from the same source. I have a "high" foot, but not a particularly long one. I usually initially experience a bit of "inward toe compression" on the right pinky toe. I have resorted to a shoe stretcher that nubs can be inserted into to give me toe room in the area that pinches. Last year, when I saw folks from Green and tried on a captoe and a wing tip in the size they recommended, I definately felt the toe compression. They told me that a wholecut (in that very same size) is the best shoe for me because it lacks stitching stays and the leather will be best able to stretch to accomodate the vagaries of my foot. Fitters from Green have also told me that the foot settles into the corkbed and this will ease "inward toe compression." I have a C&J Belgrave and the Weymouth, both on the same last and the same size. The Belgrave is a cap toe, the Weymouth a whole cut. The Weymouth has definately been more accomodating more quickly than the Belgrave has been. Still, no matter what a master fitter affiliated with a manufacturer, or the peanut gallery at the Style Forum says, the blisters (if any) will be yours and yours alone. Bic
     


  13. marc37

    marc37 Senior member

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    JL: what shoe size are you? ls your name Andrew? l'm just sussing out my shoo competition. [​IMG]
     


  14. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    I've got a pair of Edward Green Exeters on the 808 last, and last night when I tried them on, I noticed some tightness on the outside edge of the toebox--basically my pinkie toes felt a bit jammed. I had not noticed this the first time I tried them on; perhaps my feet were a bit more swelled last night. At any rate, this is my first pair of EG's, and I'm wondering if its worth wearing them in the hopes that the leather expands a bit around my toes, or maybe I should just cut my losses and sell them now. My inclination last night was to cut and run; who wants to go around in uncomfortable shoes (they are nice, though.)?

    To suffer for style? [​IMG]

    Edit: I should point out that in all other aspects they fit rather nicely.



    Hello,

    Can you (and of course others) update your experiences on how much your initially tight EG shoes opened up? This will be much appreciated by many here.

    Thanks
     


  15. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    It's beautiful; but if you're looking for an alternative to the 808 and 888, it isn't going to work. The only others that I know of are the 606 and the 89, and 888 to me looks very similar to 89.
    Cusey, you forget the 88 and the 33. Of course, you'd have to use a special order for any of those, but the 88 is supposed to be very nice and has definite elements of the 888.
     


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