Experience with A-Man in HK

[ginlimetonic]

buttonholes are not done well i must say, even an untrained eye like myself can tell.

Q: for the more experienced:

How are buttonholes 'opened'? From what i know, its either by machine (lazy) or by hand (skilled tailor)

So in this example, would the buttonholes this be done by hand, by an tailor?

 

[AndrewRogers]

Originally Posted by ginlimetonic

buttonholes are not done well i must say, even an untrained eye like myself can tell. Q: for the more experienced: How are buttonholes 'opened'? From what i know, its either by machine (lazy) or by hand (skilled tailor) So in this example, would the buttonholes this be done by hand, by an tailor?
When they're done by machine they are stitched shut and 'opened' (cut) by hand. The stitch is cut open and then the loose threads are usually cleaned up by some trimming with scissors. When they're done by hand the cloth is cut before any stitching. That stitching is then done by hand, as can be seen here. The buttonholes on the coat proper look all right but the ones on the sleeve aren't so tight. The thread used doesn't look like the normal waxed stuff, so I'm not sure whether it could just be the photograph. The buttonholes on the poster's coat are done by hand. NB Any tailors, please correct me.

 

[kolecho]

I thought I saw the last of bad buttonholes amongst top HK tailors until I saw these. They must have been sewn by an apprentice. For top notch finishing in HK, Chan is unbeatable.

 

[mrmax]

A-man is very honest about their buttonholes. I had visited them on two occasions prior to my first commission, once wearing Huntsman and once Chan. In both cases the buttonholes are superior to what A-man can accomplish.

They do not deny this. His explanation was that the Shanghainese tailors do the 'nicer' buttonholes while the HK guys just cant pull it off.

He told me this before we even started, so I did appreciate the honesty. The finishing is clearly superior at Chan, but A-man has its own benefits and I would leave it to the individual to explore those. Certainly worth considering for CMT work, though possibly overpriced given the overall result.

ps. I should add that my specifications to A-man were long and detailed. THey executed well, within the limits (eg, buttonholes) that they declared in advance. The finishing on the OP's trousers for example, is not to my tastes, but I would imagine he was clear with what he wanted.

 

[ginlimetonic]

can you tell from pictures whether its a machine finished buttonhole or one done by hand? Well i guess for practical purposes, it doesn't make much difference - i don't wear doctors cuffs open to flaunt my suits

 

[maomao1980]

Originally Posted by ginlimetonic

can you tell from pictures whether its a machine finished buttonhole or one done by hand?

Well i guess for practical purposes, it doesn't make much difference - i don't wear doctors cuffs open to flaunt my suits

In that case, look at your own suits, all your buttonholes are machine made.

 

[HKTenor]

Originally Posted by upnorth

Thanks for sharing. I am thinking of trying them in the coming summer. I wonder if it's rude to ask them, or in fact any tailors anywhere, not to sew on their tag on the shirts and suits.
I shouldn't think so - I do so with all tailors and shirtmakers, and have done so with both Chan and A-Man without any issues.

 

[AndrewRogers]

Originally Posted by ginlimetonic

can you tell from pictures whether its a machine finished buttonhole or one done by hand?

Well i guess for practical purposes, it doesn't make much difference - i don't wear doctors cuffs open to flaunt my suits

You can and I did. It is a bit harder to explain the difference any more than I have, but suffice to say, you know a machine-made buttonhole when you see one.

 

[lichmd]

Ok, too tired for a series of fit pics right now, 16 hour flights take the piss out of you. But I've been thinking about the buttonhole issue and decided to do a little experiment. Below are buttonhole pics for three different "houses"; Martin Greenfield, Oxxford MTM and Mr. Ned's. Added the original buttonhole pic for my A-Man suit. I'll be interested to see what this group thinks. Cheers, J Had to repost the Ned sleeve, it's now on the end.

 

[pabloj]

See this buttonhole pic (taken from a buy&sell thread)

 

[dragon8]

Originally Posted by lichmd

Ok, too tired for a series of fit pics right now, 16 hour flights take the piss out of you.
But I've been thinking about the buttonhole issue and decided to do a little experiment.
Below are buttonhole pics for three different "houses"; Martin Greenfield, Oxxford MTM and Mr. Ned's.
Added the original buttonhole pic for my A-Man suit.
I'll be interested to see what this group thinks.
Cheers,
J


Had to repost the Ned sleeve, it's now on the end.

All the suits except for your A-man suit seems to be more "keyhole" shaped.

 

[Vintage Gent]

For reference, a photo of the buttonholes on one of my Chan jackets.

 

[AndrewRogers]

Originally Posted by Vintage Gent

For reference, a photo of the buttonholes on one of my Chan jackets.

This could be the reference point as it has nice shape, tight (very tight) stitching, good length etc. and about as much consistency as you can get without resorting to a machine. Nice.

 

[Fishball]

Originally Posted by AndrewRogers

The buttonholes on the coat proper look all right but the ones on the sleeve aren't so tight. The thread used doesn't look like the normal waxed stuff, so I'm not sure whether it could just be the photograph.

NB Any tailors, please correct me.

Andrew,
I don't think buttonhole twist are waxed.

I don't know why, but the buttonholes are getting worst at A-Man. It used to be B-, now is C or C-.

 

[lichmd]

Great info here I'd not seen these many surgeon's cuff pics in a single thread before.
Those Chan cuffs look really nice. I can clearly see what concerned other posters about the A-Man buttonholes on my suit. Luckily for me the fit is really good.
I think I'll check them out later this year when they swing by NYC.