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Expensive Suits - Can anyone tell

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by recentgrad, Aug 9, 2016.

  1. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    Anyone watched the movie "Youth" with Michael Caine? I did few days ago so kind of recent example.
    In the starting scene when he is sitting and talking with Queens emissary I thought "what a suit...", and started to analyse what is it I like. Cloth was some crazy light grey chalk stripe flannel, fitted perfectly around neck and shoulders... But I was sold on the first impression.
    Even though I'm not subscriber to that British aesthetics and all that jazz...
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Cheap.

    I had trousers made in the late 90s by a "no name" tailor in San Francisco for $400 a pair.
    Some of my jeans run over $200
     
  3. Dandy Wonka

    Dandy Wonka Senior member

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    Yep cheap.

    I pay more than that to get my pants brought in when I lose weight.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Spruce Moose

    Spruce Moose Senior member

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    It is much harder to tell online through a model picture.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Not true for all of us. [​IMG]
     
  6. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    Sounds like what you really want is some drastic plastic surgery.
    Unless you want to look ridiculous (and then you're on wrong side of forum) male style doesn't change that quickly.
     
  7. Jim Chu

    Jim Chu Senior member

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    It's fashion that changes day-by-day, your personal style does not, necessarily. This forum is devoted to classic styles. So, fashion isn't generally lauded.
    And when people purchase expensive clothing, they usually would want to buy items that are timeless, and hence, look better as it ages and cannot be dated easily.

    It's my opinion, but cheaply made clothes may look nice when new, but hardly ever stand the test of time.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Brovsko

    Brovsko Well-Known Member

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    I think you have to consider value rather than price. Something might be in a price range one would consider 'expensive' but it offers value far superior to even higher priced items. This is how the majority of the members here judge their purchases (I believe).

    A perfect example is a pair of shoes. Sure, you can get a pair of Florsheims but once that sole wears out, the shoes are trash. Alternatively, you can spend $500 on a pair of Carminas that will last you 15 years and multiple resolings if you care for them properly. You spent more upfront but you got a lot more value out of the item over time. And the Carminas offer better value than even a higher-priced pair of Ferragamos. That's why the members here prefer small, specialized, esoteric brands. The quality and workmanship is generally much better than well-established "luxury" brands and the price-point can be the same or lower. Hence, better value.
     
  9. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Most wouldn't know a good suit from something a scarecrow was wearing; 2% will - and you do not known which you are going to meet....
     
  10. palk

    palk Well-Known Member

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    @recentgrad I'm curious if you plan on posting the brand / price of your examples.
     
  11. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior member

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    I wasnt suggesting or proposing that there is no cost in "fit" and of cause all things being equal the identical suit specifically made to fit an individual will cost more than the identical suit in OTR standard which is designed to be a reasonable fit to the non-existant average man.

    I'd disagree however that a more expensive suit will automatically fit better because of it having used some better construction methods and/or because it has a more prestigeous brand name on the label. Ultimately if the sleeves are too long or the shoulders too wide neither brand nor construction method will make it look better to anyone other than die hard brand fans.

    What I was effectively saying was that assuming you have the basics covered of a reasonable construction, material etc and had an extra $X to spend on a suit, that the average person are more likely to spot the difference of that extra $X spend if the money was put into ensuring the fit rather than into the fabric brand/quality or the label inside the jacket.
     
  12. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    I'm not an expert on clothes construction, but I think you're wrong. Construction is about fit, and some construction methods require bigger costs, especially if they involve manual work. Now, true that some part of "hand made" is about marketing, but there are parts of suit that do require manual work to fit good, even when they are ready to wear.
     
  13. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    You are just wrong. Better construction methods do effect fit dramatically even if we are just talking about quality control. Fundamentally if garments are assembled or tailored properly they tend to fit better and this skill in labor and the time needed for proper construction as well as QC comes with a premium.

    Prestige of the brand has nothing to do with it, but I would say, that usually, success comes more from talent and hard work, rather than luck.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  14. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    On the topic of better construction = better fit, it never ceases to amaze me how a full canvas jacket, made in a traditional way (the specifics of which I don't pretend to fully understand), will actually mold itself to your body over time. The heat of the sun and the body, the natural humidity in the air, and gravity itself seem to conspire to make the guts of the jacket pliable and alive. After a time, it settles in around your frame and seems to slip easily over the contours of the individual body, much like a well worn pair of shoes conforms to the shape of your foot.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Yep, helps a bunch round the upper chest/shoulders as well.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    That's specifically what I was thinking of. I don't know if shoulders and chest are the most difficult part of a jacket to get right, but a decently fitting shoulder and chest certainly seems to be the most difficult thing to find OTR.
     
  17. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    The fusing especially cheap ones that are heavy don't help...so right there theres a difference in fit because of construction and thats just talking about the quality of fusible's used. Comparing a cheap fused canvas to a good hand padded one will result in much better fit around the chest and shoulders on a like for like garment.
     
  18. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior member

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    Something that doesnt fit isnt going to fit no matter how its constructed. If something fits ok then yes it can appear better with better construction methods.

    Easiest way to solve it, if you're ever in London then you can show me in person how this better construction from the brands you mention fit me better than my much cheaper but bespoke jackets despite the fact that Tom Ford's own MTM guy said that they'd not recommend me buying their MTM suits let alone OTR.
     
  19. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Perhaps you can clarify what it is you're talking about. The claim was concerning construction and quality control. Reeves said that, all else being equal, better construction yields a better fit and that garments that are constructed properly will fit better. So I'm not sure where the example of your bespoke garments comes into play, unless you are suggesting that they are inferior in construction, but fit you better since they were tailored properly.
     
  20. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    Here is the stupid article that was recently discussed here. Maybe it will give you some answer.

    http://www.newyorker.com/business/currency/the-suit-that-couldnt-be-copied

    Tom Form has very distinctive cut. I am tall and in reasonably good shape. I had to up-size in their most generous cut. I still looked terrifying - over aggressive and intimidating. Doesn't go well with my character.

    Edit: didn't buy the suit. Just wanted to see what's all the buzz :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2016

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