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Excessively Long Nylon Watch Straps--Solution?

hls09

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My wrists are very small. (I have not measured them, so I don't know the exact circumference.) I have recently started to put together a collection of nylon watch straps and they all are on the long-ish side. I end up clipping/using/whatever-the-term-is the last or second-to-last hole, leaving in an absurdly long "tail" flapping in the wind.

With this type of watch strap I actually have to feed the excess back through:
http://www.jpressonline.com/build_po...550&height=268

With this type I just have a long tail flapping around in the wind:
http://www.jpressonline.com/build_po...550&height=268

I am hesitant to simply cut them, as I suspect they will (1) look ugly; and (2) fray.

Any suggestions?
 

hls09

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Yep, this was the best idea I could come up with. I guess I will have to experiment on one of the uglier straps. Is flame the only option or would something like clear nail polish work as well? Not that I own any!
 

Parker

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I just fold over and tuck back under one of the loops.
 

jcc123

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I know that some outdoor stores have heat knives that's used to cut nylon. I was at a Patagonia reseller shop a few years back and bought a nylon belt that they were able to cut for me on the spot. It's basically just a heated blade on a stand that looks like one of those cutters that cigar makers use.
 

videocrew

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The first strap: You're supposed to have to tuck it back. That's how a NATO strap works.

The second strap: Move the buckle down on the strap. This will let you keep the clean edge on the outside. Then take a pair of scissors and cut off some of the excess underneath. Touch the frayed edge to the eye of a hot stuff (carefully!)
 

j

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Most hardware stores that sell rope also have those heat knives.

You could also cut the end that's sewn around the buckle, shorten it an appropriate amount, and re-sew, and then the frayed/re-melted section would be under the strap and invisible, and the holes would line up. A shoe repair shop could probably do this for you.
 

East Oakland

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Originally Posted by videocrew
The first strap: You're supposed to have to tuck it back. That's how a NATO strap works.

+ 1

8000-11.jpg


If you don't want to feed it back through, you shouldn't purchase this type of strap. The extra material is there so that you can strap it on the outside of your clothes or on the outside of a wetsuit if circumstances require it. In my opinion, it would look ridiculous to cut this type of strap down so that it doesn't double back when worn on a naked wrist.
 

Lucky Strike

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Take two coins, clamp them together with the strap sandwiched in between. Cut around the circumference with a sharp pair of scissors. Finish with a lighter to seal the edges.
 

hls09

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Originally Posted by East Oakland
+ 1

8000-11.jpg


If you don't want to feed it back through, you shouldn't purchase this type of strap. The extra material is there so that you can strap it on the outside of your clothes or on the outside of a wetsuit if circumstances require it. In my opinion, it would look ridiculous to cut this type of strap down so that it doesn't double back when worn on a naked wrist.


That is very helpful to know. I was not actually aware that this type of strap--with the multiple feeders and the very long strap--was called a NATO strap. This doubling back is actually what I have been doing, though I was not aware that it was the intended way to wear the strap. I thought I was just very thin and was improvising. Thanks for explaining.

Originally Posted by Lucky Strike
Take two coins, clamp them together with the strap sandwiched in between. Cut around the circumference with a sharp pair of scissors. Finish with a lighter to seal the edges.

Spoken like someone with experience. Thanks. This is definitely what I will do with the non-NATO straps.
 

hls09

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Originally Posted by j
Most hardware stores that sell rope also have those heat knives.

You could also cut the end that's sewn around the buckle, shorten it an appropriate amount, and re-sew, and then the frayed/re-melted section would be under the strap and invisible, and the holes would line up. A shoe repair shop could probably do this for you.


Actually on the single-strap ones (as opposed to the NATO straps) the end is not sewn around the buckle but is just put through a self-tightening feed similar to a d-ring. This end is hidden, so maybe I will cut from this end to keep the visible end looking pristine. Good idea.
 

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