Evolution of proper shirt fit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SanktDave, Apr 23, 2011.

  1. SanktDave

    SanktDave Member

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    Being new to this forum and new to dressing properly I've searched this forum and outside fashion blogs for what consitutes a proper dress shirt fit but i've become stuck. Most sf members seem to advocate slim fit shirts but my question is how a slim fit shirt incoporates into what is proper fit.
    Am i to tackle slim fit shirts as the norm and the much blousier shirts of Cary Grant and Fred Astaire(advocated by Alan Flusser)as a era of style long gone? Or is it the opposite?
    Its just that I want to start building a wardrobe where the shirts are timeless and not victim to how perhaps tv and hm ads tell me to dress. Ive always had the impression that the above mentioned gentlemen wore a style of dress that was timeless but I fear that in emulating their way of dressing im wasting my money on shirts that initially fit poorly as of todays standards.

    Appreciate any response from those more wiser.
     


  2. vezatron

    vezatron Senior member

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    There are two sides to comfort.

    Is it so blousy that when you raise your arms you feel little resistance and your shirt does not become untucked? Okay great, you've nailed contemporary American dress.

    or

    Is it fitted enough that you retain full range of motion and maintain a sleek body profile? Welcome to good OTR, MTM, and Bespoke.

    A full cut is an option but shoulder seams halfway down your arm and a nest of fabric at the small of your back is not a cut; just the absence of one.
     


  3. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    If a shirt is too tight, you can't move without it wrinkling and pulling. The chest should not be pulling at the buttons, that is too tight. You should be able to breathe and have almost full range of your arms without pulling. Obviously if you throw your arms back, your going to get pulling, but not if your just breathing deeply.

    The waist depends upon how skinny you are. Same for the hip measurement.

    Arms depends upon how tight you want them. Again, go by the freedom of movement rule. You don't want the arms to chafe or squeeze your arms when you move in the wrong way.
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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  5. SanktDave

    SanktDave Member

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    If a shirt is too tight, you can't move without it wrinkling and pulling. The chest should not be pulling at the buttons, that is too tight. You should be able to breathe and have almost full range of your arms without pulling. Obviously if you throw your arms back, your going to get pulling, but not if your just breathing deeply.

    The waist depends upon how skinny you are. Same for the hip measurement.

    Arms depends upon how tight you want them. Again, go by the freedom of movement rule. You don't want the arms to chafe or squeeze your arms when you move in the wrong way.


    Would you agree that there is a bias towards slimfit shirts? Would you consider this shirt to be too billowing excluding the fact that the shoulder seam is correctly fitted.

    http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/...08/11/fred.jpg
     


  6. Working Stiff

    Working Stiff Senior member

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    There may already be some threads about shirt fit that you could look at.
     


  7. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    Would you agree that there is a bias towards slimfit shirts? Would you consider this shirt to be too billowing excluding the fact that the shoulder seam is correctly fitted.

    http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/...08/11/fred.jpg


    Not being in touch with pop culture and high fashion, I cannot agree or disagree.

    No. Not enough information to tell one way or the other. But judging just by the picture and pose, I would say it does not look billowy.
     


  8. trt2000

    trt2000 Well-Known Member

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    proper changes through time. Same as suit gorges, shirt collars, and other things. There is I think a sweet spot where if you never change a thing, you will at least be within the sphere of contemporary thinking.
     


  9. mrjames

    mrjames Senior member

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    Would you agree that there is a bias towards slimfit shirts? Would you consider this shirt to be too billowing excluding the fact that the shoulder seam is correctly fitted.

    http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/...08/11/fred.jpg


    maybe a little big- not huge, but not exactly tailored


    this is about what i'd consider to be good fit
    [​IMG]
     


  10. landshark

    landshark Senior member

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    That is an unrealistic fit. It is literally skin tight. Not to mention that the shirt is pinned to fit the model, and doesn't actually fit that way. The ideal fit will follow the shape of your body with minimal extra fabric, but still room to breath and won't pull at the placket when you're standing.
     


  11. mrjames

    mrjames Senior member

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    unrealistic fit. It is literally skin tight. Not to mention that the shirt is pinned to fit the model, and doesn't actually fit that way. The ideal fit will follow the shape of your body with minimal extra fabric, but still room to breath and won't pull at the placket when you're standing.

    it's not unrealistic by any means (imo), skin tight but tailored so the seams line up perfectly with the joints, yeah it is probably pinned at the back, but the photos I posted are not that far off the RL fit. Yes there is a comfort tradeoff- and the tailoring is so hard to get right as 1/4 inch really makes or breaks the fit. But it is achievable without pins

    [​IMG]
     


  12. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    maybe a little big- not huge, but not exactly tailored


    this is about what i'd consider to be good fit
    [​IMG]


    This is ridiculous. He had to hold his breath for the photoshoot.

    it's not unrealistic by any means (imo), skin tight but tailored so the seams line up perfectly with the joints, yeah it is probably pinned at the back, but the photos I posted are not that far off the RL fit. Yes there is a comfort tradeoff- and the tailoring is so hard to get right as 1/4 inch really makes or breaks the fit. But it is achievable without pins

    [​IMG]


    Sorry, I don't think that shirt fits you well at all. And it is miles away from the RL fit you posted.
     


  13. mrjames

    mrjames Senior member

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    This is ridiculous. He had to hold his breath for the photoshoot.



    Sorry, I don't think that shirt fits you well at all. And it is miles away from the RL fit you posted.


    How do you think it could be improved?
    I think an extra 1/2 inch to the shoulders to square off the shoulder a little, 1/2 extra sleeve length, and longer in the body, but what else would you alter? (it was shittly tucked though, and I didn't have the advantage of a stylist to make sure I was still tucked in properly on all sides...)
     


  14. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    How do you think it could be improved?
    I think an extra 1/2 inch to the shoulders to square off the shoulder a little, 1/2 extra sleeve length, and longer in the body, but what else would you alter? (it was shittly tucked though, and I didn't have the advantage of a stylist to make sure I was still tucked in properly on all sides...)


    Shoulders are too wide. Armholes are too low. Sleeves are short. Waist could be taken in.
     


  15. mrjames

    mrjames Senior member

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    Shoulders are too wide. Armholes are too low. Sleeves are short. Waist could be taken in.
    agreed that the sleeves are short, and maybe the waist could be taken in. But the arm holes are already as high as I think they can physically get, they do cut into my underarms! I'd have argued that the shoulders weren't wide enough, i prefer a more structured look- maybe one day i'll get shoulder padding put into a shirt just to clarify the aesthetic i'm after, it's somewhere between dior homme and normality. I guess this probably runs counter to what SF usually looks for, if my shirts fit like this (but with shorter sleeves) i'd be happy [​IMG]
     


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