• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • Epaulet x Styleforum Alpine Loden Collection

    Loden wool, woven in Tirol for centuries, is known for its resistance to cold and wetness. Our project in collaboration with Epaulet introduces Alpine Loden, a modern 18oz fabric blend of 75% merino wool and 25% nylon, woven in Italy. It's lighter, more durable, wind-resistant, and more comfortable than traditional Loden fabric. Partnering with Rochester Tailored Clothing, we offer custom garments like sportcoats, suits, and overcoats, made to your specifications. Learn more about the Loden collection here.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Evolution of proper shirt fit

SanktDave

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Being new to this forum and new to dressing properly I've searched this forum and outside fashion blogs for what consitutes a proper dress shirt fit but i've become stuck. Most sf members seem to advocate slim fit shirts but my question is how a slim fit shirt incoporates into what is proper fit.
Am i to tackle slim fit shirts as the norm and the much blousier shirts of Cary Grant and Fred Astaire(advocated by Alan Flusser)as a era of style long gone? Or is it the opposite?
Its just that I want to start building a wardrobe where the shirts are timeless and not victim to how perhaps tv and hm ads tell me to dress. Ive always had the impression that the above mentioned gentlemen wore a style of dress that was timeless but I fear that in emulating their way of dressing im wasting my money on shirts that initially fit poorly as of todays standards.

Appreciate any response from those more wiser.
 

vezatron

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2008
Messages
181
Reaction score
2
There are two sides to comfort.

Is it so blousy that when you raise your arms you feel little resistance and your shirt does not become untucked? Okay great, you've nailed contemporary American dress.

or

Is it fitted enough that you retain full range of motion and maintain a sleek body profile? Welcome to good OTR, MTM, and Bespoke.

A full cut is an option but shoulder seams halfway down your arm and a nest of fabric at the small of your back is not a cut; just the absence of one.
 

phxlawstudent

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
1,193
Reaction score
4
If a shirt is too tight, you can't move without it wrinkling and pulling. The chest should not be pulling at the buttons, that is too tight. You should be able to breathe and have almost full range of your arms without pulling. Obviously if you throw your arms back, your going to get pulling, but not if your just breathing deeply.

The waist depends upon how skinny you are. Same for the hip measurement.

Arms depends upon how tight you want them. Again, go by the freedom of movement rule. You don't want the arms to chafe or squeeze your arms when you move in the wrong way.
 

SanktDave

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by phxlawstudent
If a shirt is too tight, you can't move without it wrinkling and pulling. The chest should not be pulling at the buttons, that is too tight. You should be able to breathe and have almost full range of your arms without pulling. Obviously if you throw your arms back, your going to get pulling, but not if your just breathing deeply.

The waist depends upon how skinny you are. Same for the hip measurement.

Arms depends upon how tight you want them. Again, go by the freedom of movement rule. You don't want the arms to chafe or squeeze your arms when you move in the wrong way.


Would you agree that there is a bias towards slimfit shirts? Would you consider this shirt to be too billowing excluding the fact that the shoulder seam is correctly fitted.

http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/...08/11/fred.jpg
 

phxlawstudent

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
1,193
Reaction score
4
Originally Posted by SanktDave
Would you agree that there is a bias towards slimfit shirts? Would you consider this shirt to be too billowing excluding the fact that the shoulder seam is correctly fitted.

http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/...08/11/fred.jpg


Not being in touch with pop culture and high fashion, I cannot agree or disagree.

No. Not enough information to tell one way or the other. But judging just by the picture and pose, I would say it does not look billowy.
 

trt2000

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
proper changes through time. Same as suit gorges, shirt collars, and other things. There is I think a sweet spot where if you never change a thing, you will at least be within the sphere of contemporary thinking.
 

mrjames

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2011
Messages
108
Reaction score
2
Originally Posted by SanktDave
Would you agree that there is a bias towards slimfit shirts? Would you consider this shirt to be too billowing excluding the fact that the shoulder seam is correctly fitted.

http://www.ivy-style.com/wp-content/...08/11/fred.jpg


maybe a little big- not huge, but not exactly tailored


this is about what i'd consider to be good fit
pPOLO2-6677603_standard_t240.jpg
 

landshark

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
1,708
Reaction score
60
That is an unrealistic fit. It is literally skin tight. Not to mention that the shirt is pinned to fit the model, and doesn't actually fit that way. The ideal fit will follow the shape of your body with minimal extra fabric, but still room to breath and won't pull at the placket when you're standing.
 

mrjames

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2011
Messages
108
Reaction score
2
Originally Posted by landshark
unrealistic fit. It is literally skin tight. Not to mention that the shirt is pinned to fit the model, and doesn't actually fit that way. The ideal fit will follow the shape of your body with minimal extra fabric, but still room to breath and won't pull at the placket when you're standing.

it's not unrealistic by any means (imo), skin tight but tailored so the seams line up perfectly with the joints, yeah it is probably pinned at the back, but the photos I posted are not that far off the RL fit. Yes there is a comfort tradeoff- and the tailoring is so hard to get right as 1/4 inch really makes or breaks the fit. But it is achievable without pins

2rm7eya.jpg
 

acecow

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2009
Messages
4,042
Reaction score
700
Originally Posted by mrjames
maybe a little big- not huge, but not exactly tailored


this is about what i'd consider to be good fit
pPOLO2-6677603_standard_t240.jpg


This is ridiculous. He had to hold his breath for the photoshoot.

Originally Posted by mrjames
it's not unrealistic by any means (imo), skin tight but tailored so the seams line up perfectly with the joints, yeah it is probably pinned at the back, but the photos I posted are not that far off the RL fit. Yes there is a comfort tradeoff- and the tailoring is so hard to get right as 1/4 inch really makes or breaks the fit. But it is achievable without pins

2rm7eya.jpg


Sorry, I don't think that shirt fits you well at all. And it is miles away from the RL fit you posted.
 

mrjames

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2011
Messages
108
Reaction score
2
Originally Posted by acecow
This is ridiculous. He had to hold his breath for the photoshoot.



Sorry, I don't think that shirt fits you well at all. And it is miles away from the RL fit you posted.


How do you think it could be improved?
I think an extra 1/2 inch to the shoulders to square off the shoulder a little, 1/2 extra sleeve length, and longer in the body, but what else would you alter? (it was shittly tucked though, and I didn't have the advantage of a stylist to make sure I was still tucked in properly on all sides...)
 

acecow

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2009
Messages
4,042
Reaction score
700
Originally Posted by mrjames
How do you think it could be improved?
I think an extra 1/2 inch to the shoulders to square off the shoulder a little, 1/2 extra sleeve length, and longer in the body, but what else would you alter? (it was shittly tucked though, and I didn't have the advantage of a stylist to make sure I was still tucked in properly on all sides...)


Shoulders are too wide. Armholes are too low. Sleeves are short. Waist could be taken in.
 

mrjames

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2011
Messages
108
Reaction score
2
Originally Posted by acecow
Shoulders are too wide. Armholes are too low. Sleeves are short. Waist could be taken in.
agreed that the sleeves are short, and maybe the waist could be taken in. But the arm holes are already as high as I think they can physically get, they do cut into my underarms! I'd have argued that the shoulders weren't wide enough, i prefer a more structured look- maybe one day i'll get shoulder padding put into a shirt just to clarify the aesthetic i'm after, it's somewhere between dior homme and normality. I guess this probably runs counter to what SF usually looks for, if my shirts fit like this (but with shorter sleeves) i'd be happy
ifz9g2.png
 

Featured Sponsor

Invisible Socks: Convenience or Curse?

  • Convenience

  • Curse


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
511,585
Messages
10,632,713
Members
225,666
Latest member
J119574
Top