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Evening Shirt/Accessory Questions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Doc Martin, Apr 13, 2006.

  1. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    Thanks all again for the suggestions...

    Now another question: How should I order the shirt and collar by size?

    I have a 16" neck on normal dress shirts which fits quite comfortably. I have heard that it is usual to order the shirt with your normal collar size, and the collars 1/2" larger. Another source/wearer of stiff collared shirts says that he wears his shirts 1/2" smaller than his neck size, and the collars are his exact neck size? [​IMG]
     
  2. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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  3. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    The former.

    No offense intended whoopee, but is this based off of experience- or reading?
     
  4. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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  5. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    Thank you soooo much! So, how do they feel? Will I be able to waltz? Will my neck be chaffed for the consumation? [​IMG]
     
  6. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    It feels odd at first, but just stop thinking about it. You should probably also wear a stiff collar a couple times before the big day so you can get used to it. Of course, they are not very conducive to certain activities. [​IMG]

    Also, the reason I size up is that I wear stiff collars higher and necks widen towards the head. I believe this is common practice - what was recommended to me, at least, by an elderly shirtmaker who should know. And he was right.
     
  7. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    Whoopee, as my neck is 3.5" in front from sternal notch to jawline, which of the collars that I've posted would you recommend? And where do you source your collars? (You can PM me if necessary) [​IMG]
     
  8. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Probably the medium wing, but I might also try the high wing in your second post.

    My collars come from Luke Eyres. The Grafton Collar might work well for you, too. Note that there is a minimum order of six.
     
  9. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    Those are very nice collars, I've seen those as well.

    So, as this seems to be a dialogue- what are your opinions on what I have planned?

    Tails or DJ? Definitely wing-tip? MOP or onyx? Is the shirt I posted appropriate/look good?

    Thanks for all of the advice, I really appreciate it.
     
  10. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    Definitely a wing collar. For this, single link cuffs is a good idea. Tails/white tie would be a very nice look, but the dinner you have planned sounds excellent, too. Onyx, MOP, silver, etc. is really up to you.
     
  11. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    Thank you whoopee.

    One very last question- when ordering a bespoke tie, is it the same length as the collar?
     
  12. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    My experience is that you give the maker your neck size. Ask them; they will know their product and requirements better than I.
     
  13. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    I just spoke to the maker of the bow tie, and apparently it is very difficult to get the correct exact length given different collars and fabrics.

    If I were to wear the tallest wing-tip collar, what width bow-tie would look best- the standard 2.5", the wider 3.5", or somewhere in between? I definitely do not like the thistle shaped tie.

    Any more opinions on all of this fuss? [​IMG]
     
  14. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    I personally prefer the standard size. The important thing is that it is sized correctly for your face; you do not want it overwhelming you nor you, it.
     
  15. Doc Martin

    Doc Martin Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again whoopee! [​IMG]
     
  16. Charley

    Charley Senior member

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    I personally don't care for the wing collar with the dinner suit. I'd agree that it is necessary for correct wear with the white tie / tail coat rig. Note also, when choosing the collar, that the tie should be in front of the wings - not below / under the wing tips. In that regard, I've seen examples of collars with fairly large wings that would be very elegant and distinctive.

    I would recommend that you look at a marcella front turn down collar shirt. Marcella bib, collar, cuffs. Wear it with a normal black bow - that can be in several styles.

    If costs are a consideration, I suspect that you can get as much money invested in the proper bib front shirt and the collar than in a mosest eBay purchase of a full dinner suit.
     

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