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Equus Leather - English Handstitched Bridle Leather Belts - Official Affiliate and Review Thread

Lance

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Charlie, that is one fine case; the leather, stitching, clochette, workmanship, just beautiful!
 

Equus Leather

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Charlie, that is one fine case; the leather, stitching, clochette, workmanship, just beautiful!
Thanks Lance. We're just about to start the next one, several more to do after that so I'll try to keep the thread updated with more photos. As well as the full sized briefcase above and on the website Ive a complimentary design for a lighter, slimmer more laptop case proportioned version I hope we'll have finished shortly. Never enough hours in the day to get the ideas from the head to the leather!

Charlie
 

Lance

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Looking forward to your slimmed down version as well as updates on current full size briefcases in progress. Charlie, your work is superb!
 

Equus Leather

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Looking forward to your slimmed down version as well as updates on current full size briefcases in progress. Charlie, your work is superb!
Thank you that's kind of you. Its a team effort here so cant take all the credit by any means

We're working on a slightly customised version of this full sized case for a customer at the moment, but I hope we'll get the laptop case done next

Heres a quick photo of some work from yesterday. Oak Bark Tanned bridle leather, solid brass lock, solid copper rivets, each component entirely made in England which is somthing I'm rather proud of. You can see the stitch marks for the hand stitching that encircles the lock that's yet to be done. The copper rivets is an interesting thing - inspired by a lot of the Edwardian and Victorian cases we looked at as part of our design work for this range and a feature we incorporate where we can. Each case is quite bespoke though so a detail that's specific to the customer. Next production case is Black Sedgwick bridle, Grey thread and full Palladium hardware for eg. You can see a few more photos here

DSC_5716 2.JPG


Charlie
 
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Lance

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Charlie, why do you use a slot shape diagonally oriented hole rather than simply a round hole for your stitching?
Thanks
 
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Equus Leather

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Charlie, why do you use a slot shape diagonally oriented hole rather than simply a round hole for your stitching?
Thanks
This is really the heart of saddle stitch. You use a pricking iron with flat diagonal teeth to mark the leather and then when you're stitching a diamond shaped awl to actually make a hole in the leather, following exactly through the mark you've made. The small, flat hole allows space for the two half stitches that inhabit each hole and the offset nature of the line makes the stitch line far less likely to tear, a la a postage stamp. Two of the many reasons handstitching is stronger than machine stitching. Heres a couple more photos, both from the last case we made, you can see really clearly on the handle photo that the stitching is clearly angled, with the thread going from the top of one stitch mark to the bottom of the next, repeating consistently down the stitch line. A round hole for the prick mark and a round awl produces a totally different look, a slightly untidy straight line that's more inclined to tear under stress

Hope that makes sense?

_DSC5574 1.jpg
Briefcase0045 1.jpg
 

Lance

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Charlie, it does make sense, very informative. I now know the anatomy and benefits of the saddle stitch. As always, thanks so much for your reply.
 

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Charlie, it does make sense, very informative. I now know the anatomy and benefits of the saddle stitch. As always, thanks so much for your reply.
my pleasure! I’ve spent the majority of my career trying to perfect saddle stitch, one of my great professional loves!
 

Equus Leather

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What ever did happen to the film about the making of the briefcase?
Is it out yet?
the Attaché film? Shot and released a year ago. It’s specifically a Cedar framed attach case rather than the bridle leather briefcases above rhough


 

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