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Equus Leather - Bridle Leather Belts - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Equus Leather, Aug 10, 2011.

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  1. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Understood. Just wondering why the resulting measurement wouldn't always equal the size of your trousers.
     
  2. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Various reasons for this in my experience

    1) Principally, trouser makers lie. Mens less so than womens I think, but never the less a 32" in one make wont necessarily fit like a 32" in another make so it makes using trouser sizes a bit of a gamble

    2) Different types of trousers need different belt sizes. If I'm wearing cords I wear a belt 1 hole longer typically than chinos - the belt tells the story the trouser size doesnt in this case, the difference is external not internal so not reflected in the label size.

    4) Everyone wears their trousers and belts differently, some low, some high, some tight, etc etc. A measurement of the belt tells the tale the trouser size doesnt. Using myself as an example, I tend to wear 32" trousers because I'm a 31" waist but the Scott I'm wearing right now is a 30 1/2" - I like to wear my belt quite tight for support and above my hips, I run quite a bit and am boney so its where a belt wants to sit on my body anyway. I'm sure there are lots of people who do it the other way around too.

    All in all, I always say that a belt wont lie to you and is the best guide, though of course just using your trouser size will certainly produce a belt that works. Given we make everything to measure it always seems a shame to me to guess though when even a first belt from us can be pretty much spot on.

    Hope that helps and makes sense!

    Charlie
     
  3. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    For the sake of posterity, here are photos of how I got to 30 1/2"

    Measuring from the hole I wear the belt on - this isnt the middle hole (I shrunk pre last marathon) and isnt the only hole I use, it depends on the trousers I'm wearing, but is on average what I use the most.

    [​IMG]

    To the end of the leather at the buckle end

    [​IMG]

    Given the 30 1/2 measurement, if I were to remake the belt (its my favourite and has covered a lot of miles with me so I'm not!) 30 1/2" would be the middle hole so it fitted just right and there was room for manoever in either direction.


    Hope that helps,

    Charlie
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  4. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Perfect.
     
  5. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

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    I uploaded the wrong two images. I had one showing the entire belt. However, they do show where to measure from on the buckle end [​IMG]
     
  6. Winston S.

    Winston S. Senior member

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    I figured as much. At least we cleared up how far to measure on the buckle end because of your pictures.
     
  7. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    I'm getting 34" from where the buckle and leather meet until the hole normally used. My trousers are also size 34, which is why I think I am doing something wrong.
     
  8. Winston S.

    Winston S. Senior member

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    My trouser size is close to what I ordered my Equus belts in. I think I ordered 31, most of my pants are size 30, but I am true waist 33.
     
  9. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    If it's any reassurance, I'm exactly the same (34 measurement, 34 waist (sometimes 33 depending on the cut)). Charlie reassured me that I should go with the measurement. I only placed the order about nine days ago, so I can't attest that that was correct, but I just decided to go with it. It helped me to know that, with the total length of the belts, it wasn't like they would be unwearable if things were off a bit.
     
  10. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

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    Remember, that measurement is to the center hole, allowing for several inches of adjustment in either direction.




    Excellent point.
     
  11. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    That's not what the guide says.
     
  12. kmdsimpson

    kmdsimpson Senior member

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    I think you are misinterpreting what the guide says.
    http://www.equusleather.co.uk/index.php/Belt-Sizing-Guide.html

    The first paragraph says that the size you tell Charlie will be the middle hole in the belt he makes, so there will be three holes adjustment both larger and smaller.

    Then there are three examples of how to determine which size to tell Charlie to make. I think this is where the confusion is. In #1, which is preferred, you are measuring an actual belt that you have, and you are measuring to the hole you use. This is your "actual" belt size. This measurement will be the middle hole on your new belt. So, for instance, if you've gained weight over the years and are now using the last hole, Charlie's belt is going to adjust for that and put your current waist at the middle hole.

    #'2 and #3 are estimates based on clothing size. There are a few reason these are not as accurate. First, you are not measuring the belt or your waist, but rather a piece of fabric. It is not only more prone to measuring error, but you also have to account for the bulk of the pants themselves. For example, you may have exactly a 34" waist, and the inside of the pants may measure exactly 34", but when you add on the thickness of the cotton/wool and lining, etc., it could add another 1" to the circumference.

    The other reason is that marked clothing sizes are often not accurate. It is not uncommon at all for pants to actually measure 1-2" more than they are tagged; e.g.: the label says 34, but they are actually 36. So if you used what the tag said, there is a good chance that you could be understating how big the belt has to be.

    Finally, there is one other factor that I don't think anyone has mentioned, which is that most off the rack belts give the size to the last hole. So, for instance, a 34 belt is 34 at the last hole, but only 32 at the middle hole. This is why most stores tell you to buy a belt that is 2" larger than your waist.

    Because Charlie is doing this by hand and trying to be accurate, he is going against some of the clothing industry conventions. But he is getting your exact measurements and doing it correctly.

    Just remember - what you are telling him is how long the belt has to be to reach around your waist, so that it buckles at the middle hole.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013
  13. Winston S.

    Winston S. Senior member

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    That's interesting I always thought OTR belts measured to the middle hole too.
     
  14. kmdsimpson

    kmdsimpson Senior member

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    I'm sure it varies, but I've found it to be pretty common.

    Here is Ralph Lauren's belt size chart from their website. Notice the belt size is 2" larger than pants size. Could be that the pants are vanity sized, or could be that the measurement is to the last hole:

    [​IMG]


    And here is J. Crew's. See the note at the bottom of the chart: "Generally men size up one size when buying belts"

    [​IMG]


    Charlie's method is basically saying "tell me your ACTUAL measurement, and that's the size I'll make."
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013
  15. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This is exactly it - we work to literal measurements, the idea being you know what your going to get and we know what we're going to make.

    For the avoidance of doubt the measurement you order/we quote is always to the middle hole of how ever many you chose to have 3,5,7,etc. Given a 7 hole belt you'll have 3 holes bigger than the size you order and 3 holes smaller so lots of room for error. The idea is partially room for manover sizing wise, but really what we're trying to do is to make somthing that will be an old friend, and as such we take into account people grow and shrink over long periods. My own belt in the photos a page ago is a good example, I have lost 2" of trouser size since it was new but still happily wearable and I have 1 hole smaller left to go. Of course we can do as many or as few holes as people want, but thats why we default to the centre of 7 for the sizing.

    Charlie
     
  16. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Just a quick heads up to let you know about a discount code we are running for the next 24hrs.

    12% discount when you type in BRIDE12

    Also, remember we send leather samples anywhere in the world, just email dawn@equusleather.co.uk for a free pack.

    Dawn
     
  17. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hi All,

    As promised I got a few suede samples through the other day and its looking pretty good. This is much more our type of leather compared with the suedes Ive seen so far which were pretty rubbish, this is 4mm or so English leather thats made for the flaps of polo saddles with quite a short, tight nap so it'll last well. the first piece will be a light Snuff colour - I'm looking forward to seeing it. There will no doubt be photos in due course!

    Charlie
     
  18. Winston S.

    Winston S. Senior member

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    Excited to see the sample belt.
     
  19. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Me too! Fun playing with new designs and nice to have a new Summer season product, it might push the weather on a bit!

    Charlie
     
  20. Thanks SF (a new me)

    Thanks SF (a new me) Senior member

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    I need another Charlie and Dawn creation...Winchester quick release OR Stirrup buckle are intriguing, but not offered in 1 3/4 width (only with West End)....Charlie, any plans on a double-ring variety?
     

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