Equus Leather - English Handstitched Bridle Leather Belts - Official Affiliate and Review Thread

[fazalmajid]

The success of our respective viral videos is probably the only similarity I think! Not sure of the stats of The Putter vs The Making of the Lloyd Wallet in Viral Video Top Trumps, but they must be pretty similar. I didnt know theyd had a kickstarter, I did know theyd closed though. Whats the story?

I didn't mean to imply your companies follow the same trajectory, just that there was a viral following for examples of old-fashioned British craftsmanship, which goes to show people crave authenticity.

IIRC the company was on the verge of bankruptcy when the viral video came in and orders came through (I have 3 pairs of their scissors myself). That saved them, although they had a hard time fulfilling orders. Then they launched a kickstarter to relaunch their 1960s "Kutrite" kitchen shears, and that seems to have been too ambitious. The company went insolvent about a quarter of the way through fulfilling orders, the CEO Nick Wright committed suicide.

Apparently some Belgian entrepreneurs have taken over Ernest Wright & Sons from the receivers, bought the factory, machines and blanks, hired back some of the staff, and are planning on reviving (albeit at double the prices, and punting on the Kickstarter):
https://www.sheffieldtelegraph.co.u...nch-historic-sheffield-scissor-firm-1-9310799

It's good to see you are training apprentices. There is a peculiarly French institution called Les Compagnons du Devoir, a sort of medieval-style guild that passes on skills through apprenticeships, but also a set of values and traditions around craftsmanship. The Japanese honor their finest artisans with the title of "living national treasure", and the French have their "meilleur ouvrier de France". Perhaps it's time the UK did something like that, and not just for superstars like watchmaker (and now OBE) Roger Smith.

 

[Equus Leather]

I didn't mean to imply your companies follow the same trajectory, just that there was a viral following for examples of old-fashioned British craftsmanship, which goes to show people crave authenticity.

IIRC the company was on the verge of bankruptcy when the viral video came in and orders came through (I have 3 pairs of their scissors myself). That saved them, although they had a hard time fulfilling orders. Then they launched a kickstarter to relaunch their 1960s "Kutrite" kitchen shears, and that seems to have been too ambitious. The company went insolvent about a quarter of the way through fulfilling orders, the CEO Nick Wright committed suicide.

Apparently some Belgian entrepreneurs have taken over Ernest Wright & Sons from the receivers, bought the factory, machines and blanks, hired back some of the staff, and are planning on reviving (albeit at double the prices, and punting on the Kickstarter):
https://www.sheffieldtelegraph.co.u...nch-historic-sheffield-scissor-firm-1-9310799

It's good to see you are training apprentices. There is a peculiarly French institution called Les Compagnons du Devoir, a sort of medieval-style guild that passes on skills through apprenticeships, but also a set of values and traditions around craftsmanship. The Japanese honor their finest artisans with the title of "living national treasure", and the French have their "meilleur ouvrier de France". Perhaps it's time the UK did something like that, and not just for superstars like watchmaker (and now OBE) Roger Smith.

What a sad story! I loved the Putter as a film, and it certainly inspired our first films years ago. Really sad tale.

The French have an excellent craft system, and many oil their good firms are accredited for their preservation of skills just as you say. For a long time we haven't valued them enough here, and we've suffered the consequences I think. We do out best to promote the way we work, in part out of self interest of course, but I believe that you have to show that craft skills are commercially relevant, not just pretty, in order to keep them alive. Many of the craft bodies here are only interested in the skill, not the context and as a result they are relegated to museums, and I believe that is the death of a craft as a living entity

Charlie

 

[useless_username]

What a sad story! I loved the Putter as a film, and it certainly inspired our first films years ago. Really sad tale.

The French have an excellent craft system, and many oil their good firms are accredited for their preservation of skills just as you say. For a long time we haven't valued them enough here, and we've suffered the consequences I think. We do out best to promote the way we work, in part out of self interest of course, but I believe that you have to show that craft skills are commercially relevant, not just pretty, in order to keep them alive. Many of the craft bodies here are only interested in the skill, not the context and as a result they are relegated to museums, and I believe that is the death of a craft as a living entity

Charlie

I think you hit the nail on the head. Artisanal crafts, unlike pure art, have to be commercially viable to survive beyond the museum. To take a slightly silly example, I'm sure the craft of medieval sword-smithing is fascinating in itself, but also not something that really speaks to the needs of the modern consumer.

 

[fazalmajid]

I think you hit the nail on the head. Artisanal crafts, unlike pure art, have to be commercially viable to survive beyond the museum. To take a slightly silly example, I'm sure the craft of medieval sword-smithing is fascinating in itself, but also not something that really speaks to the needs of the modern consumer.

In the case of the Companions du Devoir it's not medieval at all. I did a work experience internship with them when in college, and they were working on an improved triptych door design for refrigerated trucks. A family friend is a member and works on stucco ceiling decorations, all very much relevant.

The UK had an arts & crafts movement in the 19th century, with the likes of William Morris, and they had Liberty & Co as a commercial outlet, still going today.

 

[Equus Leather]

I think you hit the nail on the head. Artisanal crafts, unlike pure art, have to be commercially viable to survive beyond the museum. To take a slightly silly example, I'm sure the craft of medieval sword-smithing is fascinating in itself, but also not something that really speaks to the needs of the modern consumer.

Yes, exactly. there are some amazing knife makers who have evolved the craft, keep making it better and are making a living and teaching apprentices, to reuse the metaphor

 

[Equus Leather]

In the case of the Companions du Devoir it's not medieval at all. I did a work experience internship with them when in college, and they were working on an improved triptych door design for refrigerated trucks. A family friend is a member and works on stucco ceiling decorations, all very much relevant.

The UK had an arts & crafts movement in the 19th century, with the likes of William Morris, and they had Liberty & Co as a commercial outlet, still going today.

Sadly not a huge amount of craft in Liberty today, at least last time I was there!

 

[Equus Leather]

Hi Guys,

We've finished our two week shoot. Lots of work, we've filmed the leatherwork, woodwork and manufacture of the brass fittings. All of the leather and woodwork is done on our workshops, or right next door at the brilliant firm of cabinet makers we're lucky enough to be next to. The wood for the frame is from a tree my family planted 180 years ago. The leather is from our oak bark tanners in Devon. The brass is made at the brass foundry we use for all our English buckles. All in all a project and product very dear to our hearts - somthing we've made because we wanted to more than anything

Few photos from the shoot

And the finished product

We have it available on the website here with a limited set of options - I'm anticipating people will prefer the bespoke approach, we can customise this more or less infinitely really

 

[TJS]

Question for Charlie or Dawn: I'm looking to order a couple of belts in the 1 3/8" (34mm) width, but the only buckle available appears to be the brass west end (with or without roller). I may well go for brass, or choose a different width, but is brass always the only option in 1 3/8", or are other buckles sometimes available?

 

[Equus Leather]

Question for Charlie or Dawn: I'm looking to order a couple of belts in the 1 3/8" (34mm) width, but the only buckle available appears to be the brass west end (with or without roller). I may well go for brass, or choose a different width, but is brass always the only option in 1 3/8", or are other buckles sometimes available?

Hi!

1 3/8" is a difficult width in the English buckles, and the Brass West End is more or less the only choice (though it can be Palladium finished if you want white too). The whole Parisien Collection have 35mm versions though, which is identical in width (34.5mm), did you see them?

Charlie

 

[TJS]

Thanks for the swift response Charlie!

I should've mentioned the belts I was thinking of; both Scott Harness and Bakers London Tan. I'm leaning towards brass for the Scott in any case, but thought a white metal might go best with the Bakers London Tan. I know it's a matter of personal taste, but your opinion (or anyone else's) is welcome on this, having seen the various combinations in the flesh so often. I did have a satin finish in mind as I think it's a better pairing with a casual, rugged belt, but palladium plating is certainly something I'd consider, so good to know it's an option.

 

[Equus Leather]

Thanks for the swift response Charlie!

I should've mentioned the belts I was thinking of; both Scott Harness and Bakers London Tan. I'm leaning towards brass for the Scott in any case, but thought a white metal might go best with the Bakers London Tan. I know it's a matter of personal taste, but your opinion (or anyone else's) is welcome on this, having seen the various combinations in the flesh so often. I did have a satin finish in mind as I think it's a better pairing with a casual, rugged belt, but palladium plating is certainly something I'd consider, so good to know it's an option.

My pleasure!

I think the Brass buckles go well with the Bakers leathers, I have a number of them. How do you feel about 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" belts though? The Nickel buckles (available in both widths) are great with the Bakers stuff too

Charlie

 

[TJS]

I'm not committed to 1 3/8", just considering the options really, although from my rather limited experience of belt ownership it feels like the sweet spot. I might go 1 3/8" on the Scott with satin brass roller first off, then decide on the London Tan configuration once I have the Scott in hand.

I have a 1 1/2" bridle leather belt currently on order from you - dark havanna with nickel west end - so I'll also have that as a point of reference. I think I read that Bakers belts are a bit thicker and I should add half of an inch or so in length?

 

[Equus Leather]

Hi Guys,

Ive taken a couple of photos of our calf belts recently, havent had time for a while with our film shoot, though I would share them!

This is quite a cool combo - 35mm Dark Brown Grained Calf, Brass Aspley, Orange Lin Cable. Great on orangy Autumnal trousers!

and of course the classic 30mm Black with Palladium Aspley, always a staple. This one has Marine Lin Cable, very very dark Blue which gives just the tiniest bit of contrast to the stitch. The colour is imperceptable, you can just see the stitchline a fraction more than black on black. Probably too subtle for the camera to pickup

We've a got quite a few to make coming up so more photos soon. Theres a Black with Red which will look cool!

Charlie

 

[Equus Leather]

Hi Guys,

Heres a quick photo for you. Ive been working on wallets over the last couple of days and thought I would share a photo for the people keen on the intricacies of leatherwork. There are a couple of very difficult, very time consuming details in this photo, which the vast majority of people will never know exist and we therefore could just not do, or not do to this level of complexity at least - I take a lot of pride in our work being as good as we are able to produce in every aspect, so we do them anyway. Points for correct spotting...

This is a bespoke Shark/Chevre Billfold wallet in the making, proper photos in due course

Charlie

 

[Skanstull]

I have had a couple of belts made by you since 2012, and on a black belt, the dye has worn off a little bit on the hardest wear areas, around the holes (this after having been used on an almost daily basis for six years, so perfectly natural).

Is there a product I could use myself to touch up the areas where the dye has rubbed off? I would assume shoe cream may rub off on furniture which could be disastrous with a belt.