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Epaulet x Carmina MTO

NewYorkIslander

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I like the wholecut brogue or a simple brogue cap toe like the one pictured in burgundy with the Ruby loafer.
 

FrankCowperwood

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I like the wholecut brogue or a simple brogue cap toe like the one pictured in burgundy with the Ruby loafer.


I'm in this camp. As mentioned previously, I'd like something from Carmina on the Robert last. Could be this. Could be something else. Otherwise Forest or Inca would suit me as well.
 

FrankCowperwood

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Not at all.

Personally its more about the last than the style.

Excited to see how much ruby shell Mike can get a hold of. Fully confident this group will find a way to put it to very good use.
 

NAMOR

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Would I be crazy for suggesting the wholecut brogue in ruby shell?


You'd be cray, cray which is what you have to be to buy a red shoe. I'm cray cray for ruby
 

Cuttingboard

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And here's a few more...
First off, this is our Cognac Shell Single Monk on the Rain last. It's being generously modeled by Antonio. ETA is early October.


I will be buying a pair of these and I'm so happy these are not on the Inca last. I rarely wear my black Salingers.

This Fall is going to be expensive with the Pebble Grain Boot Special Order, Cognac Shell Single Monk and hopefully the black wholecut brogue.
 
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Pastor

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I'm good for Ruby in the one NAMOR posted as well. I'm looking for something dressier. I like whole cuts but i'm not sure I would like a wholecut in this color. When I think wholecut I automatically think of something tan colored. I also need to try on some more shoes before I can purchase any Carminas on different last. I have the snuff suede brogues on the rain last and they push the boundaries of what size I can wear. If the last are any tighter than the rain then i'm out without going up a size which i'm not sure would work. Since the Inca is fuller fitting I think it will work well for me.
 

Pastor

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Copied from another thread. Does everybody find this to be true?

I thought I'll add this too. This is from Ethan at The Armoury:

Carmina lasts

Inca - Widest last and waist for wide feet (EE width)
Rain - Like the Inca but with a chisel toe (EE width)
Soller - A boot last like Robert, fits like a double E.
Forest - Standard width with round toe (E width)
Uetam - Similar to Forest but a shade narrower (E width)
Robert - Like the Simpson but more room in the toe box (E width)
Queen - an E width, similar to Alcudia but shorter
Alcudia - Like the Simpson but with Almond toe (E width)
Simpson - Narrow with chiseled toe, extended toe box (E width)
 

Epaulet

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Copied from another thread. Does everybody find this to be true?
I thought I'll add this too. This is from Ethan at The Armoury:
Carmina lasts
Inca - Widest last and waist for wide feet (EE width)
Rain - Like the Inca but with a chisel toe (EE width)
Soller - A boot last like Robert, fits like a double E.
Forest - Standard width with round toe (E width)
Uetam - Similar to Forest but a shade narrower (E width)
Robert - Like the Simpson but more room in the toe box (E width)
Queen - an E width, similar to Alcudia but shorter
Alcudia - Like the Simpson but with Almond toe (E width)
Simpson - Narrow with chiseled toe, extended toe box (E width)


I think that this is a great guide for relating one last fit to the other and giving a brief description of each shape. From our customer experiences - and my own - I wouldn't necessarily agree with all of it though. Shoe fitting isn't an exact science, so YMMV, but this are my thoughts:

First off, the E and EE width can be misleading, especially for US customers. In no way are any of the Carmina lasts a true American wide (E) or American double-wide (EE). I imagine that the "E" refers to UK width fitting, which denotes a medium to medium-narrow width.

I only have experience with some of the lasts, but I would rate Forest, Robert, and Soller as fairly similar in fit. The shapes differ, but most guys would take the same size in all of them. From our customer feedback, Forest is the easiest fit of all the Carmina lasts, which is why we do so many of our makeups on it. It can also be ordered in a true wide or double-wide fitting, which is also why we tend to choose it for these special makeup SF projects. It's one of my favorite lasts period.

The Rain is a bit slimmer than Forest/Robert/Soller, and the Simpson is slimmer than the Rain. If you can wear the Rain then you can almost surely wear the Forest/Robert/Soller in the same size. But if you find the Forest/Robert/Soller to be very snug, then it's possible that the Rain will be too slim on you. Most customers will be able to wear all four lasts in the same size though.

The Simpson is a pretty slim last by any comparison. All things being equal, I prefer to do makeups on the Rain last because it offers a similar chiseled toe and elegant shape, but is a bit more forgiving and easy for fit.

And the Inca is kind of an odd man out. It's a brilliant shape as it has a very slim toe and a comfortable waist. I wouldn't go far enough to call it WIDE, as any Alden customers who need an E or EE will probably find it too tight. We use it for the double monk for a reason. The toe shape works with the double monk pattern, and the width in the waist allows guys to wear the shoes comfortably snug, which you need to do for a double monk or slip-on style. Because the Inca last shape is so unique, most of the Carmina shapes actually cannot be made up on it.
 

MacktasticGDogg

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Mike, thanks for your thoughts on how the different Carmina lasts relate to each other. The only Carmina last I've ever tried on is the Rain last (Austerity Brogue). I'm planning on getting a pair of Salinger double monks on your next re-stock. The Austerity Brogue on the Rain last fits me almost like it was custom made for my feet, do you think the Inca last will fit OK in the same size? Thanks.
 

Cuttingboard

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Mike - I'm confused...I thought the Rain last was a touch wider than the Forest last?
 

Epaulet

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Mike - I'm confused...I thought the Rain last was a touch wider than the Forest last?


Ah, that hasn't been the experience that I've seen. I'd call them both safely medium in size. The Rain has a narrower toe and a slightly lower profile than the Forest, you can see that in the photos.

I'd say that the fit difference is pretty minimal, and most guys who wear one last can also wear the other without a problem. But if you need a true wide , you're better off with the Forest in a wide sizing rather than the Rain.
 

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