Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

[dead arm]

A few thoughts, in no particular order.

- I also love the interaction on this thread and especially like the inside baseball / industry insight behind the business decisions Epaulet and Mike make.
- A thousand-times yes on the higher-rise rivets. I've worn the sh!t out of my rivets, but I, too, am an office drone and I tuck my shirts in. With Rivets, I can't keep 'em tucked. Considering non-rivets for work chinos right now bec. of this.
- Count me as another guy who isn't hung-up on buying American. I was drawn to Epaulet because I found it to be an approachable source for affordable-ish higher-end menswear that had a lot of great customization / options and a good price-to-quality ratio. I get that Mike wants/needs to have factories close by so that he can manage product. That makes sense. But I'd be happy to buy quality made Epaulet made overseas.

 

[Michigan Planner]

- Rivets, in my recent experience, are just too low rise relative to the rest of the chino market. The new ones in particular seem to be even lower to the point that nothing stays tucked and if you pull them up you end up with mooseknuckle. I still wear them for casual untucked stuff, but you can wear higher rise trousers for that without consequence

This is my main complaint with the Rivets too. I'll still buy them on occasion if there is some awesome or really interesting fabric but I've learned I have to size up quite a bit and then taken them to my tailor to have the seat and waist taken in (and legs slimmed a bit depending on the fabric and look I am going for) in order to have a rise that's high enough to allow me to comfortably wear them to the office. Otherwise, I go with chinos from J.Press that have a much higher rise and and are more versatile for me.

Really though, the main thing that has kept me from ordering more from @Epaulet in 2019 compared to previous years (well, other than the fact that my closets are already overflowing with Epaulet gear!) is the missed lead times with everything from the MTO offerings, regardless of whether it's from Southwick or Hertling. Southwick is usually much closer to the estimated time from but looking back at when I placed orders over the past few years and when I received the finished products, I'd be surprised if more than a couple orders came in even 2 weeks after the estimated range... and elaborating here on Hertling in terms of timeframe estimates is like beating a dead horse.

I get that estimates are just that - estimates - and that Epaulet has their arrangements with the particular manufacturers and I usually budget some extra time into my expectations because of that but it's gotten so disappointing that it's really discouraged me from ordering much more, especially at these price points.

I don't order many custom shirts as I've got a couple shirt brands and styles that I really like and fit me great OTR, but I will say the few times I've ordered Individualized from Epaulet have been nothing but positive experiences with very fast turn around times (much better than Luxire who I've used a few times) and awesome finished products.

 

[edmundrz]

Agree on the Rivets. Walts fit well and the rise is spot on. Wilhelm fits so oddly like parachute pants from the top of the butt to the top of the thigh. I have a big pouch on my butt like a baby with a full diaper unless I wear them way too tight elsewhere.

So tldr im between epaulets fit and Walts fit me great.

 

[mattw]

- styling and models for product shots - I'm a boring office drone like i imagine many customers are, so have a tough time making the jump from some of the "nutzo" styling to how I would wear them on a day to day basis. It's a casual office, but still hard to imagine something like a tie dye button down...

I had something typed up about this before and deleted it.
This gets straight to the point, but I think it could go further into product selection.
I think removing one "step" of crazy from some makeups could produce lots of great stuff that still stands out.

Same caveat about being a specific customer though. I'm basic.

 

[Epaulet]

Thanks for all of the great feedback guys! I know that your time is valuable and this is a busy season for everyone, so I sincerely appreciate it! It's really helpful, and I've gotten quite a few pointers that I can use to push the business forward next year.

I hope that things will continue to be posted here rather than just on instagram. I'm sure instagram is good for pictures, but I find it impossible to find anything on there. Sometimes I see someone mention instagram on this thread and I go over there to try to find out what they're talking about and there's nothing there! I don't know if content just disappears, or if I'm not seeing it because I need to 'follow' it in the right way, or what. So, I much prefer SF.

Absolutely.. I'm going to be more on point with posting regular updates here. It's a valuable space, you guys are my preferred customers, and the posts endure with organic search, so you'll see more of my personal effort on this thread in the future.

Thought of one more thread idea...

I've always loved Mike's take on some of the behind the scenes/industry insight type posts. A recent example would be his view on the collapse of Unionmade. Same goes for the decline in interest for Alden footwear or why particular items failed or succeeded.

I know this also usually comes up on Reddit AMAs. I think it is a unique perspective and has definitely impacted my buying habits, EP or otherwise.

Great suggestion @FLW and I think that's something that I need to do more of. Me and @LA Guy had a huge talk on the phone yesterday, and that came up.

Styleforum in general and this thread in particular is populated with a lot of educated professionals. Guys are curious about the story and process behind what they order. I'm going to work to be more thoughtful and transparent about things, because we have a lot to tell. You're going to hear me on a lot more podcasts and assorted media as well. I'm part of the Styleforum team going to Pitti in January, and believe me, it's going to be a crazy one.

One of the things that I really like about this forum is that it is a place where Mike often gives us an early preview of something upcoming - or an early link to new product before going out via the newsletter or appearing elsewhere. This often gives me a headstart to quickly grab something before it’s gone - especially an EFF or similar.

I also like to hear and see what others are liking and purchasing, and how they are wearing it. I have learned a lot about ways to pair pieces that I never would have figured out if I hadn’t seen it here first.

I guess i look at this forum as a sort of “insiders” page - so the more info that is flowing, the more I enjoy it.

Absolutely, I'll work to do more of this. Do you guys like the short videos where I recap the top few units out of a big selection of things?

@Epaulet Love all this conversation about the direction of the business - could never have this on Instagram!

A few things that have led me to buy less from Epaulet lately, ordered by how specific they are to me as a customer (aka you should ignore the bottom two if you want):

- styling and models for product shots - I'm a boring office drone like i imagine many customers are, so have a tough time making the jump from some of the "nutzo" styling to how I would wear them on a day to day basis. It's a casual office, but still hard to imagine something like a tie dye button down...
- custom / limited run stuff, it's really hard to envision how some of these wool fabrics would make up for things like a doyle jacket which has no structure to it. A deeper understanding of the original intent of the fabric (suiting vs jacketing vs outerwear, etc) would help me stop fence-sitting and pull the trigger.
- Rivets, in my recent experience, are just too low rise relative to the rest of the chino market. The new ones in particular seem to be even lower to the point that nothing stays tucked and if you pull them up you end up with mooseknuckle. I still wear them for casual untucked stuff, but you can wear higher rise trousers for that without consequence
- Haven't seen a super- heavy canvas sinclair yet... I want that!

LOL yeah the days of our tie-dye woven shirts and 2-piece Ikat suits have come to a end. Don't worry about those making a reappearance any time soon! I think that the best way forward for "nutzo" things is to offer them custom or via small projects... like the Cherry Doyle. We actually sold like 22 Cherry Doyles. Would have never happened if I bought them as stock items, but as a special order piece it just made more sense.

Good call on talking about the fabric more. I have been working to photograph the finished products as much as possible for our custom work. And when we do preorder projects, I try to have full samples made up so we can photo and video them fully.

A few thoughts, in no particular order.

- I also love the interaction on this thread and especially like the inside baseball / industry insight behind the business decisions Epaulet and Mike make.
- A thousand-times yes on the higher-rise rivets. I've worn the sh!t out of my rivets, but I, too, am an office drone and I tuck my shirts in. With Rivets, I can't keep 'em tucked. Considering non-rivets for work chinos right now bec. of this.
- Count me as another guy who isn't hung-up on buying American. I was drawn to Epaulet because I found it to be an approachable source for affordable-ish higher-end menswear that had a lot of great customization / options and a good price-to-quality ratio. I get that Mike wants/needs to have factories close by so that he can manage product. That makes sense. But I'd be happy to buy quality made Epaulet made overseas.

Gonna talk about the Rivets in a little bit, but I hear you on the sourcing bit. I'm not opposed to making stuff overseas, but to date I've never been particularly successful with it. Our Portugal made shirts were amazing (IMO), but the reaction was always pretty "meh" to them. Sure I could probably do a woven shirt out of China for like $85 in basic oxford cloth, but I'd be just one of many brands offering that.

For me, production is less about USA vs China and more about a facility that I can visit and interact with. I should do a far better job of telling that story, because it's honestly really charming when you see the people who actually produce your clothes. All of us have PLENTY of places to shop. If I don't sell you a shirt, you're not going to be stuck without one. Since we have a strong local story with our products, I'd be smart to integrate that more into how we sell the garments.

This is my main complaint with the Rivets too. I'll still buy them on occasion if there is some awesome or really interesting fabric but I've learned I have to size up quite a bit and then taken them to my tailor to have the seat and waist taken in (and legs slimmed a bit depending on the fabric and look I am going for) in order to have a rise that's high enough to allow me to comfortably wear them to the office. Otherwise, I go with chinos from J.Press that have a much higher rise and and are more versatile for me.

Really though, the main thing that has kept me from ordering more from @Epaulet in 2019 compared to previous years (well, other than the fact that my closets are already overflowing with Epaulet gear!) is the missed lead times with everything from the MTO offerings, regardless of whether it's from Southwick or Hertling. Southwick is usually much closer to the estimated time from but looking back at when I placed orders over the past few years and when I received the finished products, I'd be surprised if more than a couple orders came in even 2 weeks after the estimated range... and elaborating here on Hertling in terms of timeframe estimates is like beating a dead horse.

I get that estimates are just that - estimates - and that Epaulet has their arrangements with the particular manufacturers and I usually budget some extra time into my expectations because of that but it's gotten so disappointing that it's really discouraged me from ordering much more, especially at these price points.

I don't order many custom shirts as I've got a couple shirt brands and styles that I really like and fit me great OTR, but I will say the few times I've ordered Individualized from Epaulet have been nothing but positive experiences with very fast turn around times (much better than Luxire who I've used a few times) and awesome finished products.

Regarding the Rivet Chino rise: it's something that we've kept constant for the past 6 years or so. It's actually the same rise as the Walt, which I always considered a fairly medium rise shape. I'd be honestly nervous to change it because we've sold maybe 15,000 - 20,000 pairs with these specs over the years, and it's worked really well. One shape can't work for everyone, but this seems to deliver a look that the majority of our customers like.

That said, I do offer the Wilhelm chino which has a significantly higher rise than the Rivet. It has a fuller leg and seat too. I'm always selling the Wilhelm as a jean for muscular legs, but I should probably revise that, as I've had plenty of guys with slimmer legs buy it for the higher rise and cool shape. Many customers are looking for a looser fit, and the Wilhelm delivers that without looking all "Bills Khakis" and sloppy. Our stock in that shape has been pathetic this season, but we'll fully restock everything and bring it back up to speed around early February. And you'll see a lot more in basic 8oz canvas and the $135 to $145 price point. I think that the Wilhelm would be a great product for guys like @Michigan Planner

I really need to talk clearly about the distinctions on my site too. A new customer coming to the website is given the choice between "Rivet" or "Wilhelm" and how TF is he supposed to know the difference between those two things?!?

And regarding lead times, I'll be the first to admit that we've had lots of issues in the past. I have fixed most of them at this point.

* Alden and Sneakers were difficult as hell. Both of those categories are gone.

* Hertling is constantly in flux. It's clear that they have a hard time delivering a big diversity of fabrics and shapes. Our next project with them will feature just one fabric, and they've promised a four-week lead time. Since they'll be doing it at a relatively quiet time of the year, I feel confident on that.

* Southwick is a lot better than before. We had some slow lead times on promotional fabrics, but the majority of our stock orders were delivered within the window this year. And I'd say that things are more correct than ever. We used to have sizing issues like what @FLW sadly experienced, but they're largely resolved.. mostly because I do all of the order submissions myself.

* Individualized has been very much on point. As always some s*** happens, but we've been nailing the turnaround time and the details as ordered pretty well. Definitely better than ever before.

* Aero leathers is a major lost opportunity for me. I haven't been putting much work into it, honestly, and that's too bad because their jackets are amazing. You're going to see new projects with them right at the start of the year, and very reliable 8-12 week lead times. I'm also getting my own Aero jacket in like a week (my first one!)

 

[Epaulet]

Agree on the Rivets. Walts fit well and the rise is spot on. Wilhelm fits so oddly like parachute pants from the top of the butt to the top of the thigh. I have a big pouch on my butt like a baby with a full diaper unless I wear them way too tight elsewhere.

So tldr im between epaulets fit and Walts fit me great.

Just curious, what size are you? I'm measuring out a Rivet and a Walt in 33 and the rise is really the same. The Walts have about 1/3" more height in the rear. I wonder if it's more that the thicker waistband of the Walt is keeping it up better on you?

Believe it or not, I take a few returns each month from guys telling me that the Rivet rise is too short. I'm open to tweaking it a bit down the road.

 

[Michigan Planner]

@Epaulet I forgot about the Wilhelms and I did order a couple pair of those in my typical size earlier this year (or maybe late last year?) and was really pleased with the fit and the rise in particular. My all-time favorite from you guys though was the Jungle Pant. They had the perfect rise and I loved the untapered leg (or very minimal taper?). I don't even mind the visible pocket seams.

If there were future MTO options for casual pants in interesting fabrics, I'd love to have the ability to pick between the Rivet, Wilhelm, or Jungle fit. If it's just a plain khaki or stone or olive cotton, I'm likely still going to just go back to my standby at J.Press that has those basics covered.

And FWIW, I gave up on the Walts long ago and migrated over to the Rudy and then discovered the Taylor and never looked back. The only change I'd like to see on the Taylor is to have a slightly fuller leg or less of a taper, but I understand I'm probably in the minority there.

 

[macjedi]

Epaulet Tie, Shirt & Trousers …

 

[sartoria vacua]

also re 2020 bring back the beach effect crazy hair. rebirth of the unslick, all that.

 

[Epaulet]

@Epaulet I forgot about the Wilhelms and I did order a couple pair of those in my typical size earlier this year (or maybe late last year?) and was really pleased with the fit and the rise in particular. My all-time favorite from you guys though was the Jungle Pant. They had the perfect rise and I loved the untapered leg (or very minimal taper?). I don't even mind the visible pocket seams.

If there were future MTO options for casual pants in interesting fabrics, I'd love to have the ability to pick between the Rivet, Wilhelm, or Jungle fit. If it's just a plain khaki or stone or olive cotton, I'm likely still going to just go back to my standby at J.Press that has those basics covered.

And FWIW, I gave up on the Walts long ago and migrated over to the Rudy and then discovered the Taylor and never looked back. The only change I'd like to see on the Taylor is to have a slightly fuller leg or less of a taper, but I understand I'm probably in the minority there.

Very cool, thanks for all of that! From my side:

1) We'll start with Rivet & Wilhelm for the MTO program. I'll do a mix of basics and novelties. We can very easily offer a big selection of denims if anyone wants that in the Rivet/Wilhelm shape too.

Jungle pant could be doable at a substantial upcharge, but I can't guarantee that.

2) Our Taylor's made through Southwick are totally MTM. If you want any changes done, I can easily pass that though. We can add to both the thigh and the opening for you without any issues.

 

[kongmw]

Any chance of more fabric options (MTO maybe) for the bomber jacket in 2020?

 

[El Argentino]

No comments at this time, but have loved the last few pages of questions/comments and Mike's take/responses.

 

[CaptainCrunchy]

Oh real quick.. I have some made up items to show you.

I'm going to do a second round of Gitman Brothers End shirting. Delivery on this is going to be early Feb. There's some killer stuff in there, but this deserves some special attention...

View attachment 1296685 View attachment 1296687

If you like our shirts and own one, then definitely consider treating yourself to one of these. I've seen a lot of shirt fabrics in my time, but nothing ever quite like this. The hand on it is really soft and it's a true four-season cloth. It's really something incredible!

This is the Gitman camp collar right? In the product photo with the model, the collar looks really flat (like how a camp collar is supposed to look). In those photos, it looks like it has a bit of a roll. Are you able to wear it with the roll or does it just flatten out when you put it on?

 

[trig]

Just curious, what size are you? I'm measuring out a Rivet and a Walt in 33 and the rise is really the same. The Walts have about 1/3" more height in the rear. I wonder if it's more that the thicker waistband of the Walt is keeping it up better on you?

Believe it or not, I take a few returns each month from guys telling me that the Rivet rise is too short. I'm open to tweaking it a bit down the road.

Weird that they measure similarly but fit completely differently. Rivets I almost have to wear on my hips due to the rise, whereas the Walt is a little below my belly button. I'm a 34 for both to accommodate seat mostly. I've held off on rivets on the pure fact that there's no way to wear them with tucked in shirts staying in consistently.

 

[Epaulet]

Any chance of more fabric options (MTO maybe) for the bomber jacket in 2020?

Tell you what, if you're cool with an extra two weeks or so of lead time, I could do any of these fabrics in the bomber jacket for a $25 upcharge...

https://www.epauletbrand.com/collec...in-wool-tweed-corduroy?variant=29550955397222

Just add this item into your cart at checkout, but tell me "BOMBER JACKET" in the checkout comments. I'll recognize your name.

FWIW doing a bomber in that Woolrich Dream Donegal would be about the dopest thing that anyone has ever seen.

I absolutely need to tell you guys more about that cloth, will do shortly.

No comments at this time, but have loved the last few pages of questions/comments and Mike's take/responses.

Thank you @El Argentino ... you've been such a long time supporter of the brand! And the most patient suiting customer of all time. And the person who officially got me hooked on Carne Asada fries.

This is the Gitman camp collar right? In the product photo with the model, the collar looks really flat (like how a camp collar is supposed to look). In those photos, it looks like it has a bit of a roll. Are you able to wear it with the roll or does it just flatten out when you put it on?

@CaptainCrunchy no there's not really a roll... this is just how the shirt is flat-packed with some plastic supports under the collar. It's going to wear like a standard camp collar.

That fabric is absolutely - freaking - incredible. We all know that guys aren't beating down the door to get an OTR Gitman shirt in a normal bizcaz fabric like the were in the heady days of 2010 and "Inventory Magazine." But Chris Olberding at Gitman Bros is second to none when it comes to unique fabric sourcing, and this doesn't disappoint. It's a complex and amazing cloth that's comfortable to wear and very eye-catching in its texture.

I really can't recommend the "Gonzo Handsketch Jacquard" enough... particularly if you're a past Gitman x Epaulet customer and you're totally confident on your sizing. You'll absolutely love how this turns out. Check it out here