Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 1, 2009.

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  1. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    So, I've got the Donegal Walt's on right now and I finally see what everybody's talking about with both the quality and silhouette of these. They are outstanding.

    However, the seed of doubt has been placed in terms of room in the thighs and surprisingly in the ass. I'll be the first to admit that this purchase has come at an unfortunate time, given the omnipresent culinary temptations of the holidays, so I'm not sure if once the holiday weight goes, that these will work out or not. I wish I had my camera with me so I could take a quick fit pic, but the wife has it.

    NYR, since you've got large thighs, how do yours feel while sitting? Mine are OK while standing (ass is a little tight with some "packaging" round front), but the legs get really stretchy tight in the thighs, across the knee caps and through the calves when I'm sitting. It's almost like the silhouette is too tight across my calves as well and is restricting the natural rise of the trouser leg when I sit. Is that your experience as well?

    I'll have to mull this over a for a day or so, but I'm starting to suspect I may be a Rudy guy, in which case I'm out of the running for those Christmas trousers. :(

    Rudy...sounds like the fat kid that got beat up all the time in the locker room during gym class. :box:
     


  2. ThomSquared

    ThomSquared Senior member

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    What size and color are they? I might be able to take those off your hands...
     


  3. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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  4. applky

    applky Senior member

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    If they are only a little tight, a competent tailor can create some room in the tight areas. There are seam allowances in the legs, thigh, and seat. Also my donegals have stretched slightly with wear. Most trouser fabrics won't do this, but tweed is an open, looser weave that will give a bit.

    Post pics and the forums can diagnose tightness.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011


  5. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    This is the plan.

    My mom and her German boyfriend are in town and want to go to Christkindlmarket tonight (if only I had some sort of "Christmas trouser" to wear) so I'll try and get some quick pics up tomorrow. Thanks for the rec about creating more room in the leg, I'll look into it if they're worth keeping.
     


  6. Epaulet

    Epaulet Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Thanks Applky, and yes, this is entirely possible.

    Some of you guys might know that I created the "Rudy" cut for myself. (Little trivia: the name was supposed to be "Rudie" as in "A Message to You". But instead our patternmaker changed the spelling to match Rudy Giuliani). I've always had bigger legs, and since I'm into weight training, I could never find a trouser that fit me properly. I was literally the fit model for Rudy size 34.

    The Christmas trousers that I'm wearing in the pic with Dylan were ordered in a Rudy 34, but accidentally cut into a Walt 34. When I first put them on, they were tight. I mean like Cheap-Monday-Lil-Wayne-in-Leggings tight. They were tight when I was standing and felt like they were going to bust when I sat down.

    At the time, there didn't appear to be more fabric, so instead of having them remade, I bought them to a tailor and had them let out as much as possible in the thighs. Boom - there was no problem after that. And as you can see in that pic, I can not only stand and sit in the pants, but I can also drink my face off and do a two-man kickline. With using the full seam allowance, a Walt fit can be completely let out to the approximate dimensions of a Rudy. If your Donegals feel good when you stand, then having them let out in the thighs will definitely give you a comfortable fit while retaining the overall slim lines.
     


  7. applky

    applky Senior member

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    ^ Great to know that this works, Mike! I was only guessing at this, based on the seam allowances on my own trousers. I would imagine that, if this were done at the same time as a hem, the tailor would be able to fold all the jobs into one and give a discount.

    EDIT: unclesam099, true, although in my experience it is never worth handing your fine clothing to a tailor who is anything less than stellar.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2011


  8. unclesam099

    unclesam099 Senior member

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    Not just a competent tailor, but any tailor should be able to do this. Take them to a few different tailors and get price quotes - the one that is really expensive probably doesn't want to do the work, but quotes you a high price to keep you away. Note that the inside leg seam has more fabric on one part of it than the other. That may be enough on its own if you simply opened that up down to just below your knee, though it's likely better to open both sides evenly, as the position of the crease will change if you do it on one side. Probably not a big deal, maybe one of the resident professional SF tailors could chime in and let us know. I'm a DIY-er, not a pro :).

    And if you should find that you don't want to take up the tailoring job, I would consider puchasing a pair so that i could give it a shot myself :) Mike's testimony has got me interested...
     


  9. edubs01

    edubs01 Senior member

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    Mike-
    Check your pms and let me know brotha....
     


  10. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    Yes, this is very helpful information, thanks Mike.

    I dropped off two BBBF/TB suits to a tailor recommended by Chris Despos that need to be picked up, so I may take them to him if I'm satisfied with his work on the suits (I better be for $425). :sneaky2:
     


  11. scottcw

    scottcw Senior member

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    Dang, I would have snagged me some Donegals in Walt had I known...
     


  12. edubs01

    edubs01 Senior member

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    Trying to decide between the Oxford Grey Flannels or Wool & Cashmere Medium Grey Trousers.

    Does anybody own either and can comment.
     


  13. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    Most of my pants are Walts, with one pair of Rudys...the tightest part is the thigh, but by a few hours of wearing they stretch good for me...tightest ones are the cotton Cramertons...all of my wool ones, even the Flannels, have some give. But if they're tight everywhere, I'd get em let out.
     


  14. thenanyu

    thenanyu Senior member

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    Oxford Grey. All the way.
     


  15. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    So are we sending you our photos Mike or do we just post here for the trouser contest?
     


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