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Michigan Planner

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Todd V

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This is a bummer. What we have here is a crotch blow out on an older Southwick tweed suit. May have been a factory find or ends for friends, I don’t recall. Not my most worn suit by any stretch but I guess worn enough.

Did I do something wrong?:crackup:

Future suits with tweed or heavy fabric will be styled with patch pockets so the jacket is more salvageable. Doh!
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Michigan Planner

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This is a bummer. What we have here is a crotch blow out on an older Southwick tweed suit. May have been a factory find or ends for friends, I don’t recall. Not my most worn suit by any stretch but I guess worn enough.

Did I do something wrong?:crackup:

Future suits with tweed or heavy fabric will be styled with patch pockets so the jacket is more salvageable. Doh! View attachment 1713259

This looks like the “salt and pepper tweed” from quite a few years back. The one Epaulet suit I ever had something wear through on the fabric was this fabric (if it is indeed the same). It was a shame because it was my favorite suit. Fortunately, I caught it early and it wasn’t as bad as this so I was able to have it taken care of.

That looks like a pretty bad blowout but I’m sure there are some re-weavers out there who could salvage these for you. It might not be entirely invisible, but maybe it’s in an area where it would at least be a bit less noticeable?
 

Epaulet

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This is a bummer. What we have here is a crotch blow out on an older Southwick tweed suit. May have been a factory find or ends for friends, I don’t recall. Not my most worn suit by any stretch but I guess worn enough.

Did I do something wrong?:crackup:

Future suits with tweed or heavy fabric will be styled with patch pockets so the jacket is more salvageable. Doh! View attachment 1713259

Ah man, I'm sorry to see that. I remember when you got that suit!

Short answer is: you didn't do anything wrong of course, but this is also a thing that happens with textured woolens on certain physiques.

I have personal experience with this. Genetically, I've always had big legs and my thighs touch when I walk. This is puts pressure on that exact area with every step that I take. If you think about a textured fabric (tweed, flannel) versus a smoother one (tropical wool, linen), you can imagine how the texture and extra fibers create a lot more friction.

This problem came up for some of our customers in Brooklyn. Lots of guys ride bicycles and have thicker legs from that. It's cold as hell, so flannels and tweeds are popular. And people walk everywhere, go up and down stairs all the time, etc. If you legs touch, your trousers are fitted in the thighs, and the fabric is thick and textured, then this wear pattern will happen eventually. I tried to be a Japanese selvedge person before joining Styleforum, and I had the exact same problem occur with 16 and 18oz denim from the likes of Samurai and Studio D'Artisan. It's not that the denim wasn't good or the jeans were improperly made... it's simply that the cloth unavoidably wore down.

All that said, this is absolutely fixable by a good tailor. It's far too big for reweaving, but it's not in a visible place. They can patch it with a fabric that's similar-ish in color (doesn't have to be exact) and they'll do this heavy reinforced stitch on it. I'd have them do it on both sides, as the other one is looking fairly worn too. That should take care of it, and it's back in rotation in no time.

Your hopsack suits (coming soon!!) won't be as susceptible to this issue. Lighter and smoother fabrics create less friction as you walk, but it could happen at some point, despite RTC being a great suitmaker and Hardy Minnis being (arguably) the best fabric mill in the world for hopsack. When you notice a pant starting to get threadbare in that area, patching it early will make the repair totally invisible and prevent those big holes from forming in the first place.
 

Todd V

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Interesting — I was going to trash them. I’ll look into the patch concept!
 

hammerhead_corvette

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Are you getting new fabrics for sport coats in the future? I think I have finally accepted that I probably just need to get a custom/made to measure jacket to get what I want.
 

Epaulet

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Interesting — I was going to trash them. I’ll look into the patch concept!

Oh yeah, it's a straightforward fix for any tailor. I'm sure they've done it many times before.

Even if it looks a little rough, as long as you don't try a Cardi B dance routine in your tweed suit -- it won't be visible to anyone. It will absolutely work.

Are you getting new fabrics for sport coats in the future? I think I have finally accepted that I probably just need to get a custom/made to measure jacket to get what I want.

Sure, I'd love to make that for you! Check out our existing stock:

https://www.epauletbrand.com/collections/special-order/Made-to-Order-Sportcoats

Orders placed now (outside of Sashiko) should be ready about the end of January. I'm waiting on this huge box to arrive from RTC before I'm soliciting new orders formally, but we're still selling a few suits and pants a week and sending it their way.

If you - or any other guys on here - want a sportcoat or suit, then we can do 15% off those prices. And Ming can work with you personally to figure out exactly what size you need. We also have some promo fabrics on hand, so if you want to email him custom[at]epauletbrand.com with a general idea of what you want, we can put together a selection for you and get it sorted quickly!
 

Epaulet

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Also quick note: Sashiko Doyles are all here!! Spent the day shooting them and we got the first few preorders out. The balance of all preorders will ship by Friday, and open stock goes up tomorrow. The colors are all really muted and awesome. I especially love Aubergine! The purple tone is actually really subtle, and it's just fantastic.

And kudos to everyone who splashed out for the Tahitian MOP buttons, they are rad as hell on these pieces.

Next preorder project will be Sashiko Rivets. All of the fabric left on hand will make about 80 pairs. We're going to offer four colors, sizes 31 to 38. I'll do the same concept as before where I write the order and cut the fabric before the project launches, so we can deliver within four weeks of preorder close without a problem. We'll have a preorder price of $145 for them.
 

hpreston

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Oh yeah, it's a straightforward fix for any tailor. I'm sure they've done it many times before.

Even if it looks a little rough, as long as you don't try a Cardi B dance routine in your tweed suit -- it won't be visible to anyone. It will absolutely work.



Sure, I'd love to make that for you! Check out our existing stock:

https://www.epauletbrand.com/collections/special-order/Made-to-Order-Sportcoats

Orders placed now (outside of Sashiko) should be ready about the end of January. I'm waiting on this huge box to arrive from RTC before I'm soliciting new orders formally, but we're still selling a few suits and pants a week and sending it their way.

If you - or any other guys on here - want a sportcoat or suit, then we can do 15% off those prices. And Ming can work with you personally to figure out exactly what size you need. We also have some promo fabrics on hand, so if you want to email him custom[at]epauletbrand.com with a general idea of what you want, we can put together a selection for you and get it sorted quickly!

I LOLed...
 

sjmin209

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Hi Eva, Any word on when the chainstitch preorders will ship?
 

sjmin209

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Hey @sjmin209 if we didn’t ship yours yet I’ll be shipping the rest of the preorders tomorrow.

I’m out of office today picking up the remainder of the Sashiko Doyle’s and doing factory runs.


Awesome--thanks for the update.
 

L.I.T.

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Sashiko Doyles: In Stock and Ready to Ship

As promised, our best-selling jacket of all time is back in stock! We have approximately 50 units across five colors ready to ship immediately. Here's a few notes:

1. This is the first appearance of Aubergine, and this muted purple tone is even radder than we had hoped!

2. Mink and Dark Indigo - our two best selling colors - are restocked in all sizes

3. All pieces are dyed and pre-shrunk. Size up one if you're in between sizes or you'd like some room to layer underneath.

4. These jackets make for a PERFECT gift, and there's plenty of time to deliver before Christmas. Smaller sizes are often used as unisex garments too.

5. This is the last restock for at least several months. It's going to be mid-Spring before we have enough fabric to produce more jackets.

Sashiko Doyle in Aubergine: $265
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Sashiko Doyle in Mink Brown: $265
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Sashiko Doyle in Indigo: $265
ADmaUj_VNDS8LJLavrig8mYsSaB3ZuO6JWOUdNoyCSQENqnJUzXxdv1jKNI-F3Xm2BxdezVzwlOf-t7AFX_cyrdGWOQ8vm07iTTSsV24GQzsHxRFtd3JSLdRDwOZgtFezA=s0-d-e1-ft


Sashiko Doyle in Gunmetal: $265
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Sashiko Doyle in Oxblood: $265
2BvJatHaWnrt3NciSxMz50ZnMFLuhoaLdgv8KGbcP0qUdNEWjytfkDi8D27nWZ8t11IMdcSr_s3CJ9kjRbFMqrmDyK0yDlgD8eGRC4afYSkTlPwTPf8cj4_rHtpkMvdcmg=s0-d-e1-ft
 

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